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Posted: 3/3/2014 3:03:01 PM EDT
[#1]
13in Geissele.
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Posted: 3/3/2014 3:11:05 PM EDT
[#2]
12.37" Samson or Samson Rainer Evo series would work. No need to remove barrel for those. Centurian would also work and is dead sexy, but for $200 you need to find a used one. Fortis as well, but chopped FSB would be VERY noticeable so do a good job when cutting it. Troy rail will also work.
NSR and various other 12-13" would work. They would require removing barrel and the $200 budget may be an issue. |
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Posted: 3/3/2014 3:15:01 PM EDT
[#3]
13.5 - 15" keymod rail would be your best option.
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Posted: 3/3/2014 3:29:44 PM EDT
[#4]
11-12" for me. I have a 13 on my 18" rifle length build and I have a 10" on my middy 16" stealth. I think they very long rails are kinda a waste.
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Posted: 3/3/2014 5:10:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Daniel Defense Modular Float Rail (MFR) 12.0.
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Posted: 3/3/2014 5:15:29 PM EDT
[#6]
I run a 13" rail on my 16" barrel, leaves just enough barrel exposed IMO.
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Posted: 3/3/2014 5:24:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Noveske 13.5" NSR. Here is one on one of my builds:
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Posted: 3/4/2014 4:21:04 AM EDT
[#8]
Bump, still looking for more options in the $200 range. So far im leaning toward a samson evo, rainer or centurion quad but this one is a little more costly.
Anybody else care to share what you are running on your rifles? Also, Do the key mod rails feel weird on bare hands with all the holes throughout the surface? Thanks to all who have shared thus far! |
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Posted: 3/4/2014 4:31:10 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
13in Geissele. FPNI ETA...good looking rifle OP. Looking forward to seeing to when complete. |
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Posted: 3/4/2014 4:36:34 AM EDT
[#10]
Long+light are good. Especially if you're going to have a front buis. Longer sight radius, plus its good to have the space there if you need it.
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Posted: 3/4/2014 4:58:48 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I run a 13" rail on my 16" barrel, leaves just enough barrel exposed IMO. <a href="http://s826.photobucket.com/user/joe_hyder/media/C4EBC6A5-F22F-4B2D-AF27-0F222EC79066-43896-00002B38C95CAAEE_zps1f7c1e9d.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz185/joe_hyder/C4EBC6A5-F22F-4B2D-AF27-0F222EC79066-43896-00002B38C95CAAEE_zps1f7c1e9d.jpg</a> This is my setup aswell. 13" Troy rail on 16" barrel. I love it. |
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Posted: 3/4/2014 5:04:21 AM EDT
[#12]
Topic Moved
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Posted: 3/4/2014 5:11:52 AM EDT
[#13]
12.37" Samson Evo on a 14.5" pinned to 16". So it would be 1.5" longer (would be about the same).
MI GenII SS rail. 15" on a 18" barrel. SO a 12" on a 16" barrel would look very similar: 
15" troy with a 16" barrel. 
MI GenII SS 15" on a 16" barrel. 
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Posted: 3/4/2014 5:12:57 AM EDT
[#14]
double tap
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Posted: 3/4/2014 6:54:17 AM EDT
[#15]
Centurion Arms CMR 14" Rail is my favorite out of any of my builds. super SLIM
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Posted: 3/4/2014 8:23:19 AM EDT
[#16]
AR0010EB RRA Deluxe Extended Free Float Rail, Rifle Length Extended length, requires the use of a low profile gas block. Length: 14.5 inches. $135.00 |
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Posted: 3/4/2014 12:46:38 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
12.37" Samson or Samson Rainer Evo series would work. No need to remove barrel for those. Centurian would also work and is dead sexy, but for $200 you need to find a used one. Fortis as well, but chopped FSB would be VERY noticeable so do a good job when cutting it. Troy rail will also work. NSR and various other 12-13" would work. They would require removing barrel and the $200 budget may be an issue. THIS GUY...is spot on.. 
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Posted: 3/4/2014 7:45:38 PM EDT
[#18]
Well I upped the budget and took the plunge on a 13" Geissle MK4. I found it on clearance for $295shipped, sorta wanted to go with a 15" but I could always swap to a shorter barrel in the future. Thanks for the all of your guys' input, I appreciate it.
Out of curiosity, has anybody ordered through RogTactical? How reputable of a company are they? |
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Posted: 3/9/2014 7:45:50 PM EDT
[#19]
Update: Got the fore rail in 3 days after placing my order through Rogtactical, what a great company.
This is the Geissele MK4, pre- keymod rail. I think the 13" rail on the 16" barrel looks just right IMO. I feel like it turned out pretty well, what do you guys think of it? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/rob_lervold/20140309_163035.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/rob_lervold/20140309_210255_LLS.jpg |
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Posted: 3/9/2014 8:01:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Honestly the new midwest industries keymod looks very clean and appealing. If you want pics go to the new products section and its close to the bottom
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Posted: 3/10/2014 2:53:40 AM EDT
[#21]
I'm in the process of deciding on a new handguard for my MOE middy as well. Did you cut down the FSB or change out the gas block? Do you have any closer shots of the end of the handguard where it meets the FSB?
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Posted: 3/10/2014 3:37:07 AM EDT
[#22]
M.I. Keymod is what I use.
12" on my 16" 15" on my 18" http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1211 Dave N |
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Posted: 3/10/2014 3:47:58 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Update: Got the fore rail in 3 days after placing my order through Rogtactical, what a great company. This is the Geissele MK4, pre- keymod rail. I think the 13" rail on the 16" barrel looks just right IMO. I feel like it turned out pretty well, what do you guys think of it? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/rob_lervold/20140309_163035.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/rob_lervold/20140309_210255_LLS.jpg That rail does look nice on there ! I've got a Fortis 12 coming for my current build 
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Posted: 3/10/2014 5:18:29 AM EDT
[#24]
This might be a good option. Wouldn't even have to remove the delta ring and they get great reviews for comfort, versatility and looks.
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Posted: 3/10/2014 8:38:13 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm in the process of deciding on a new handguard for my MOE middy as well. Did you cut down the FSB or change out the gas block? Do you have any closer shots of the end of the handguard where it meets the FSB? I can get any shot you would like, though the rail extends over the FSB by a couple of inches now. I did cut the sight off and had to grind the gas block down alot to clear the new rail. Just a heads up, these pins were TOUGH!! I am a big guy and was using a 3lb hammer, couldnt get them to budge after 2 hours... Soaked them over night with some penetrating oil then switched from using punches to using a hammer in the punches place, when they started gettimg close to flush I switched the corner from a stick of square tubing to pound on the pins since the punches kept sliding off and they started backing out shortly after, at this point I was able to tap them out with the punch. Smith&wesson, Stag and Bushmaster are notorious for being hard to remove the pins. |
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