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Posted: 3/27/2006 3:57:47 PM EDT
My VLTOR carbine stock castle nut comes loose after 200 rounds or so?

anyone have this problem? its on a bushmaster lower? LOCTITE maybe?
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 4:01:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 4:04:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Ive tighten that baby as tight as possible!

The  Fiberlite didnt do this?

I will try the Blue loctite, I guess?

I didnt even use it on my arms 40
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 4:20:57 PM EDT
[#3]
You shouldn't need Loctite at all.

You can hand-tighten it and it should stay.  But by hand-tighten I mean not just making sure it is tight, I mean putting your weight behind it.  For example, when I installed my castle nut, after I got it tight I placed the rifle on my carpet andused my weight to press the wrench down and force that nut to have absolutely no room to loosen.

Yeah that was a bit dangerous, but it worked.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 5:26:35 PM EDT
[#4]
this is the first time I have ever heard of a castle nut shooting loose, maybe it's a little out of spec.  As cheap as they are I would buy a new one and see if it still happens

let us know if you fix it
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 5:57:27 PM EDT
[#5]
One of mine came loose. This can't be the first time.

If you are going to use Lock-tite be careful. You only need a little bit. I now have one that is basically welded together with Blue Lock-tite.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 10:01:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 10:05:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Stake it, thats what the smaller indentations on your "castle nut" are for...
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 10:34:13 AM EDT
[#8]
Well I do no WES knows his SHIT!

Thanks for all the info!

I got it as tight as I could with the little CHEAP wrench that came with it!

Buy another castle nut?

Should I just ask VLTOR for a FREE ONE or where I bought it at?

I kinda dont think its out of specs? but Im not a PRO
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 3:02:58 PM EDT
[#9]
If its from VLTOR then it is probalby spec.  There is a reason there a staking slots on the nut.  Stake and don't worry about it anymore.  Your castle nut is fine, you just need to secure it properly.
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 3:10:58 PM EDT
[#10]
Okay here it comes now!

How do ya stake it? I do have a manual but its for A1M16?
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 4:06:17 PM EDT
[#11]
If you want to be cheapo, use a small standard screw driver placed in one of the small "ramped" cuts in the castle nut with the blade angled to bite into the reciever plate.  If the muzzle is pointing to your left, you want the stake made on the far side of the ramp.  This way the displaced metal in the reciever plate will prevent the castle nut from rotating towards you.  Give the tool a good whack.
Ideally, you would use a staking tool, or just make one by grinding down a punch or chisel.
If you check out the DIY forum I think there is a section in there that describes and illustrates staking.
You can also check the online TM for the procedures.
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 4:17:56 PM EDT
[#12]
a center punch works really well
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 10:44:37 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 4:15:31 AM EDT
[#14]
I played with it last night.

I can get it very tight ?

But the tube is off a 1/4 inch or so? Crooked I mean

I think it needs to be turn another full rotation? But it cant because of the Detent.


Link Posted: 3/29/2006 7:50:16 AM EDT
[#15]
The buffer tube (for collapsable stocks) usually has just one position where it's aligned correctly and it covers the buffer detent sufficiently without binding it.
The castle/locking nut tightens independently of the buffer tube.  The tube shouldn't rotate when you tighten the nut.  Are you using a standard receiver endplate?
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 12:22:17 PM EDT
[#16]
Im using a COMPLETE VLTOR CARBINE STOCK came with H Buffer,castle, end plate thats mark with there logo? and oopps buffer tube!

Im positive I did it right since they are a breeze to install?

Ive done it before? a Fiberlite and also installed a regular A2 buttstock on my Parts rifle

If I shoot like 120 rounds its still  tight but about the 200rd mark it starts to loosen up a bit?

Man I wish I never moved. I could just ask one of my friends to take a look see?


Thank you for all the help you are trying very hard

Link Posted: 3/29/2006 1:39:52 PM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:
But the tube is off a 1/4 inch or so? Crooked I mean

I think it needs to be turn another full rotation? But it cant because of the Detent.




I'm not sure what you are saying here.  How is the tube crooked?  Crooked relative to what?  Which detent?
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 2:05:34 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
Loctite is fine for guns, staking is what you use for weapons.

Its worth doing it once, and doing it right.  Once you see how easy it is to stake something, you will laugh.



I'm with stickman on this, all the way. My brother had to have his stock staked after the loctite came loose.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 3:16:30 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:

Quoted:
But the tube is off a 1/4 inch or so? Crooked I mean

I think it needs to be turn another full rotation? But it cant because of the Detent.




I'm not sure what you are saying here.  How is the tube crooked?  Crooked relative to what?  Which detent?



Sometimes when I try very hard tighting the VLTOR DOWN

the stock is off line  a bit?
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 8:20:09 AM EDT
[#20]
I'm still not sure what you're describing.  The buffer tube should just engage the edge of the buffer detent.  If you look at the profile of the tube (from the side) the tube should be slightly longer on the bottom.  Then the plate slides forward to meet up with the back of the lower and compresses the take-down spring and detent into its recess.  Then the castle nut is tightened to hold the plate in place and prevent the extension from rotating out.  You don't run the receiver extension in all the way if that's what you're thinking.  
It would help if you could describe what you mean by the stock being offline a bit.  How are you looking at the stock when you're saying it is off?  I'm not sure what you meant in saying the stock needed another turn and why the detent (which one? there's two invovled) is preventing this.  If the tube is engaging the buffer detent, that's all that it needs and you can stop rotating the extension and slide the plate forward at this point, and the stock should be oriented vertically.  Any farther forward and you're going to have probs with the tube preventing the upper from coming down into the lower or the detent being able to engage the buffer and keep it in the extension.  You shouldn't be "tightening" the stock really, only the castle nut.
Have you checked the online TM or the DIY forum that has step-by-step procedures?  That might solve your probs.
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 11:12:38 AM EDT
[#21]
I agree fully!!

if im not carefull when tighten the castle nut the stock cocks to the left just a BIT!
Real hard to notice unless you really give it the once over!

I will stake it I guess!
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 12:29:58 PM EDT
[#22]
So the slot in your tube and endplate have some play? just get someone to hold the stock while you tighten the castle nut.

Then stake it.
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 1:45:23 PM EDT
[#23]
YES that would help! I think the stock/tube is fine!

If I had a better CAR wrench that would help also!
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 1:46:51 PM EDT
[#24]
STICKMAN could you post a Picture of the staking?

to me ya just wack it with a punch of some type?
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 2:02:15 PM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:
My VLTOR carbine stock castle nut comes loose after 200 rounds or so?

anyone have this problem? its on a bushmaster lower? LOCTITE maybe?



Freeze the lower, tighten the nut as much as you can.  After doing that to my Bushy carbine, I can't even work the nut loose with an armorer's wrench unless it's re-frozen
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