Would it be worth it to bed and free loat a Remington SPS stock?

The rubbery Hogue stock or HS- Precision?

Hogue no, HS-P yes.....IMO

I would say no because of how flexible they are.....though I can't tell for sure what stock that is. Not an HS-P or B&C though.

I got the idea from this.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/gundigest.com/more/how-to/gunsmithing/block-bedding-synthetic-model-700/amp

Stock seems to be a bit different, and maybe he just got lucky?

There is one way to find out. It worked for him for how long?
My concern is the flexibility of the stock vs. the non-flexible Devcon. After 6 month or year or temp changes will the Devcon separate from the stock?

Ya, if nothing else it could be good practice.

So how do the long screws/bolts not get stuck in the action or pillars? Do you just cover them really good in release agent? Or do they break free when you twist them?

I have bedded those SPS stocks a few times, I think it certainly is worth it. And what have you got to loose, a cheap plastic stock? I have not had one damaged or need rebedding yet. Have had a 308 for over 10 years, a 270 & 22-250 for around 5 years.

I use a dremel/foredom  and a carbide cutting bit, a small twisted fluted bit. Hog out the stock around the recoil lug, action screw holes and the footprint of the action. I try for at least 1/8" clearance. I then like to stipple the areas epoxy will go with a soldering iron on synthetic stocks. This helps get a good mechanical bond as well as burning off any mold release or other oils that might be in the stock.

I like to put aluminum pillars and free float the barrel channel. I degrease the stripped barreled action and put a layer of tape on the front and bottom of the recoil lug and put wax in the nooks and openings to dam off the epoxy. I coat the action and first couple inches of barrel with Johnson Paste Wax as a release agent. Coat the action screws with release agent as well as the screw holes in the action. Wrap a few layers of tape around the barrel to center it in the stock.

I then "paint" a thin layer of epoxy on the stippling, ensuring that it is covering and holding. Then gob on a little excess epoxy and set the barreled action in it. I then put the action screws in and tighten them down only enough to get everything sitting where it should. I clean up any oozing epoxy with Qtips and then Qtips with rubbing alcohol ensuring to clean up inside the locking lug area and magazine well and trigger group well. I use epoxy that cures in 24hrs so after about 8-10hrs I pop the action out and trim up the semi hard epoxy with a razor blade then reassemble to let it fully cure.

Then I degrease the action and install the trigger and bolt release, magazine etc. I like to give it 3-4 days before torqing the action screws and firing it.

When I did mine I coated them well with shoe polish and wrapped them with masking tape until they just barely fit through the holes so the Devcon wouldn't seep down around them.

I agree with the good practice view. Pillars between receiver and bottom metal and a torque wrench to get uniform tension will go father that solid seating to flexible stock.

Ya, as long as I don't get my action stuck I don't care if I fail or not.

Would you do the pillars and bed at the same time, or do pillars first then then bed later?

Pam cooking spray makes a great release agent.

I'm not sure there is a right or wrong way but I prefer to do pillars first, then bedding.

I drill the stock for the OD of the pillars. Insert the action into the stock then slide the pillars up the holes until they are touching the action. You can do stock work to free float the barrel or make the front pillar a little long to lift the barrel to be free floated. Sometimes this requires a longer action screw to engage enough threads. I mark the pillars length to be slightly proud of the inletting for the bottom metal. I cut the pillars at that mark then hand file/sand the pillars to the correct length while testing the fit often.

Once the length is satisfactory I rough up the pillars OD and the stock holes ID. Degrease everything then epoxy in place. Once cured I remove stock material around the pillars top and bottom being careful to leave enough material to hold the pillars in place. Then I bed the bottom metal and the action at the same time. When done the top of the pillars will contact the action and the bottoms will contact the bottom metal.

I often use 5-min epoxy to set the pillars so that I am not waiting 24hrs for them to cure. I figure I am hogging out around there tops and bottoms and putting better epoxy there it should be plenty strong.