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Posted: 8/2/2018 7:12:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: popnfresh]
I'm considering building a platform to shoot from my SUV roof. Reason being, where I'm shooting, laying on the ground may not allow me to see my target so I need options.
Is it a waste of time due to vehicle movement? I suppose it really depends on wind but..... It would be a simple low cost($200 max) non permanent setup so if it didn't work oh well. Anyone done this, got pics, how'd it work? UPDATE ----------------------------------------------------- I think I am done with it other than sealing or painting. Won't be able to actually shoot from it for a while, not sure I want to set it up at my local range. They are pretty easy going but.... Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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What vehicle?
Expect to scratch the heck out of your paint and possible dent your roof from your weight. |
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I have shot off the deck of our hunting buggies with no issue..I stood next to the deck with the rifle on it bipod and bag in back..no issue out past 500 yards..
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Originally Posted By AKSnowRider:
I have shot off the deck of our hunting buggies with no issue..I stood next to the deck with the rifle on it bipod and bag in back..no issue out past 500 yards.. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/404934/fullsizeoutput_444-626975.JPG View Quote Could place two scissor jacks(small and I already have them) under each side of the frame I suppose. |
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Get a 3/4 ton truck with a large bed to shoot from the back of bed. Or, check out some 4x4 forums to get an idea on some of the roof racks jeeps and other vehicles use. You will probably have to switch out your bumpers to do it right though. Or, get a portable deer stand to bring with to shoot. You won’t have to extend it all the way up. What kind of suv do you have? $200 bucks won’t get you much.
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Could always lay the rear seats down and shoot out the back. I have done that with my Xterra.
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Originally Posted By Rob01:
Could always lay the rear seats down and shoot out the back. I have done that with my Xterra. View Quote I have been out there before but with a 2wd Grand Cherokee rental so I couldn't really get to where I wanted. I had to buy a decent 4wd for this time around and want to be ready. Get up above the brush, cacti and desert creatures lol. |
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Originally Posted By Bearcat24:
Get a 3/4 ton truck with a large bed to shoot from the back of bed. Or, check out some 4x4 forums to get an idea on some of the roof racks jeeps and other vehicles use. You will probably have to switch out your bumpers to do it right though. Or, get a portable deer stand to bring with to shoot. You won't have to extend it all the way up. What kind of suv do you have? $200 bucks won't get you much. View Quote $40-60 plywood $55 hardware to mount it to the rack rails $30 for metal angle to extend the length to ~8' while prone. |
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Get up above the brush, cacti and desert creatures lol. View Quote |
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Well I ordered the mounts(vibration damping U-bolts) from McMaster-Carr for $50+ so I guess I'm going to find out how it works.
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Interested to hear as would be an option for me and my Xterra too.
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
I'm thinking 7 feet up on a big solid vehicle(like a sail) may have quite a bit more movement.....of course if the wind is blowing the vehicle around I probably won't have much luck shooting. Could place two scissor jacks(small and I already have them) under each side of the frame I suppose. View Quote OP throw your rifle up there and climb up there and prone out..you should know pretty quickly if it is stable enough to meet your needs... |
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"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
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Got a sheet of 3/4" pressure treated plywood, damn thing must weigh 100lbs. Might regret that as I have to get it up on the roof by myself. Hopefully it gets lighter when it dries out.
May do 3 sections, the main to support my body then a removable section to support the rifle and a removable section for my knees to feet(so I can still access the wet box). Made a blueprint to work off. Attached File |
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For ideas you could look into the high rack/top drive hunting rigs they use in South Texas. Sounds like you're basically wanting just the "floor" of one of those setups with no seats or rails. Your idea for some stabilizer jacks sounds like it could help for longer range shooting or if the wind starts to shake the xterra at all. Good luck with your project. I've contemplated getting a cheapo Jeep Cherokee to build a small top drive rig for NV hog hunting. That would be fun.
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I think it can work. I think the scissor jacks would be a must. Maybe 4 of them. Framing and mounting looks difficult. The weight with you, your stuff, and the assembled device might be more than the luggage rack mount can handle.
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I think he should be fine as the weight is distributed all over the rack. I have walked up on mine and I weigh 220 pounds and with my standing on one foot on the rack didn't even make it flinch.
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Originally Posted By Blowout:
I think your going to get a lot of flex out a sheet of 3/4" ply. If it were me, I'd build a frame from 2x4's and lay a sheet of 3/8" ply on top. It might be somewhat lighter and a lot more ridged. Do you need it 48" wide or can it be somewhat narrower like 36"? Throw a padded shooting mat on top of it the same size to make it more comfortable. You can make it in 3 sections and use strap hinges on top to connect them. When traveling, flip the ends up on top of the center piece. Something like this: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/931/28934018347_c2dd1e90b7_o.jpg I've made platforms like this to hold large expensive laboratory equipment in the back of a van and it folded up so it could be shipped. Just a thought.... View Quote It can't really be too thick with a frame because it won't fit in my garage, if I extend the frame down then it will interfere with the back door going up. That would mean the whole thing would have to move to the front of the vehicle but I want to keep my torso(weight) over the rack area. I need it to be thin and low....and very simple, this won't be used often. I am screwing 1" square aluminum down each side the full 8' and probably two at the 4' widths. I was going to just hinge the section(s) but then all the weight is still attached for putting it up there. It really isn't necessary to have the section(s) attached, gravity is enough really. I will just lay it/ them on the square tubing and drop in a couple bolts to keep it/them from sliding off. I'll bolt it down to the main section when traveling. My shooting mat is 36" wide and I use all of it. I wouldn't want to go any narrower than 48" what with the Labradar, kestrel, phone, range finder, spotting scope, ammo etc.. plus I need something to lean the ladder on other than the paint. I'm going as simple as possible to start then add to it if I have to. |
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Never off of an Xterra but I would think it'd be fine. Friend of mine had an H2 Hummer several years ago and had a really nice roof rack on it the length of the top. We could both prone out up top and shoot, even had a nice little rail around the edge you could load your bipod off of. It helped on a power line we shot at that had several rolling hills in it. Getting on the roof would let us get out from 700 yds to 1,150yds just by climbing up on the roof. Post it up when you get it finished OP.
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Originally Posted By Blowout:
I was thinking about the edges flexing and flex over the length. The aluminum tube should definitely help with that. I have a large rack on a 4runner and find the rear hatch doesn't allow for much overhang of cargo to the rear. Yours doesn't have an air deflector so hopefully is won't interfere as much. We have to load everything to the front of the truck to keep the rear accessible. Maybe find some round steel tubing to slip in the square aluminum tube to allow you to extend some plywood further to the rear. It will only have the weight of the rifle and maybe the Labradar on it. The round tube could be screwed to the plywood and the piece removed when traveling. Just can't open the rear hatch all the way when it's attached. Here is our rig heading out for a long weekend of shooting with everything but the kitchen sink... lol The rack is 6'x4' and the 2x4 shown is 10'. The rack is rated for 600lbs static weight, 300lbs when moving. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2864/9445898986_0029dee0fb_c.jpg Wind really catches plywood when it's strapped to the top on the highway, but your probably already aware of that and why your making it in 3 pieces. Interested to see how it comes together and how it functions for you! View Quote Yeah I am a bit concerned about the plywood flapping in the wind which is why I went 3/4" thick. Also concerned about the wind maybe trying to lift on the interstate. It has to make a 2200 mile trip. FWIW, in my shade tree engineering mind, I will put enough air in the rear air springs to keep the rear higher, thinking the air will push it down rather than pull it up. I like the idea of the round tubes into the square for extensions. I get my mounting u-bolts today so I'll have a better idea of my options. * looks like that 150lb weight includes the wet box contents. Attached File |
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You can always make it collapsible and store it and then install it on the scene.
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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This is basically what it will be. I was able to get this one 5'3"Lx4' W piece up from the side inside the garage with out much problem so I think I may stick with just 2 pieces. Then I will lay the rest on the aluminum rails to support my feet and legs when prone( not to hold much load).
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
This is basically what it will be. I was able to get this one 5'3"Lx4' W piece up from the side inside the garage with out much problem so I think I may stick with just 2 pieces. Then I will lay the rest on the aluminum rails to support my feet and legs when prone( not to hold much load). https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/83091/2018-08-06_17-632100.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/83091/2018-08-06_17-632102.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/83091/2018-08-06_17-632104.JPG View Quote But the contraption looks like a perfectly designed accident waiting to happen. |
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Chicken Farmer by choice hunter of shade tree's and hiding spots by nature.
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Please explain how so, that is obviously the last thing I want. @sparkyD View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Originally Posted By sparkyD:
I think later you need to tackle a sissor blind/shooting house complete with out rigger jacks. But the contraption looks like a perfectly designed accident waiting to happen. @sparkyD |
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Chicken Farmer by choice hunter of shade tree's and hiding spots by nature.
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Originally Posted By sparkyD:
Knock your rifle or equipment off the limited space or fall from the ladder as your climbing up. Muzzle blast breaks a window. I killed a perfectly good mirror once on my one ton killing a feral cat. Then there's the forgetting something up there and driving off. Those are just some of the kind of things I would do. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Ah, all valid points. I thought maybe you meant an accident from traveling with a 4x5 sheet of plywood bolted to my rack. View Quote |
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I imagine that cowling on the front of the rack should deflect most of the wind from going underneath the plywood. Might bolt it down and take a short trip on the freeway at 70+ and see how it fairs.
The 1" tube might whistle but that can be determined in your test run. Easy to plug with a couple plastic chair feet plugs or just tape. The unsupported tube will vibrate and you can figure out how much on the test run as well. Now you need to figure out some shade while your up there along with an ice chest. I have a 12x12 pop up canopy that I drive the truck underneath when parked in the hot sun. At 83" high the truck just fits underneath. Could extend the legs with PVC or something similar to make the canopy a bit higher. |
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Good luck with this. You might be able to sell the results of your efforts.
I am getting motivated to put together an adequate shaded platform for the mighty Ford F150 bed. It is still highway worthy. My muzzle braked, non-suppressed rifles piss of the local shooters at a couple of my go-to ranges. I can park off to the side. |
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I saw on a forum where another guy used some light bar mounts, wish I would have known about them before hand. Might just have used them instead of U-bolts.
I bought 4 from Tractor Supply($17/pair) I will use them to add support to the outside edges and add 4 more bolt down points. Had to modify them a bit to fit under the plywood. Attached File Attached File Rather than adding bracing under the width of the plywood I am just going to rely on my rack crossbars. My telescoping ladder had anti-pinch bumpers under each rung which I took off so it would be shorter. LOL, sure I'll regret that at some point. Attached File Anyway I machined these bumpers shorter and will screw them to the bottom for contacting my crossbars. Attached File Tonight I'll put this stuff on and see if the holes I drilled in the ply come close to aligning with the U-Bolts on the rack. |
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I will definitely take it for a test drive, maybe mount a camera to see what's going on.
I am going to somehow cap and connect the front ends of the 1" tube hoping to prevent vibration. I'll try to figure out an air deflector for the front edge that is quick and easy to remove(and make) so I can get to the wet box latch. I think I am going to add a short step/extension on the back so my rifle don't go over the edge into my back window. I was going to just screw my extra stuff to the top but decided on t-nuts Gorilla glued to the bottom so I can bolt things down. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well this is more money and work than I bargained for, glad I went simple. Just about done. Here's the bottom side with the rails mounted and all the T-nuts glued in place for my extensions and target stand stuff. $290 so far and hopefully that's it. Attached File |
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Any suggestions on what to use to waterproof this pressure treated plywood?
It will be in the garage 99% of the time but I am concerned about it getting waterlogged and heavy while driving in a rain. |
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Any suggestions on what to use to waterproof this pressure treated plywood? It will be in the garage 99% of the time but I am concerned about it getting waterlogged and heavy while driving in a rain. View Quote |
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Also, random thought:
You could install some eyelet bolts with washers at the corners and around the outside perimeter of the plywood. That way you could use them to string some rope or paracord through to while shooting to form a temporary fence or ledge to keep stuff from rolling or falling off. Depending on your garage height and rafters, you could also potentially use them to raise the platform off of the vehicle and store it. You might could also use them to tie down gear to the roof. |
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Originally Posted By ARnTN:
Also, random thought: You could install some eyelet bolts with washers at the corners and around the outside perimeter of the plywood. That way you could use them to string some rope or paracord through to while shooting to form a temporary fence or ledge to keep stuff from rolling or falling off. Depending on your garage height and rafters, you could also potentially use them to raise the platform off of the vehicle and store it. You might could also use them to tie down gear to the roof. View Quote Something to keep stuff from rolling off. Eyes to lift and maybe store it from the garage ceiling. Also considering eyes near the front standing up as high as possible with cable running through out to the front to keep the aluminum tubes more stable while driving and support weight better. Have to see how it travels and if it holds weight ok. |
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Pics please!!
Pressure treated wood does not take weatherseal well until it has aged a little. I have had good luck on improvised boat additions with Thompson's Waterseal out of a spray can or brushed on liquid. I have found some 30 year old, not quite good enough/mistake pieces that looked good enough to use to this day, if I had not got rid of the boat. ETA - I can see the pics now (tablet challenges). Looks like a winner. I am guessing you are showing the bottom of the platform. I think a black paint or truck bedliner coating would look better than a clear sealer. |
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Might throw it on the roof, bolt it down and climb aboard to check if anything needs to be reinforced before running the cost and time any more to add more support.
You could just prime and paint with exterior house paint. It will hold up to a driving rain. I've had pieces of CDX outside in the in the weather for years and it held up pretty good. Usually rots when its had extended contact with soil, which shouldn't be an issue on your trucks roof... hopefully. |
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Wouldn't I have to wait a couple months for the plywood to completely dry out? Not a carpenter but it is my understanding that PT won't allow paint etc. to stick until dry. View Quote It sounds to me like you are wanting to coat it with something immediately, so whatever (bedliner, paint, etc) you cover it with to keep the weather out is going to seal moisture in also. If you are really worried about it you could just paint the top. That’d protect it from weather but still (I guess) allow it to to dry out. |
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
Yes I was considering that...not exactly but... Something to keep stuff from rolling off. Eyes to lift and maybe store it from the garage ceiling. Also considering eyes near the front standing up as high as possible with cable running through out to the front to keep the aluminum tubes more stable while driving and support weight better. Have to see how it travels and if it holds weight ok. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By zach_:
Pics please!! Pressure treated wood does not take weatherseal well until it has aged a little. I have had good luck on improvised boat additions with Thompson's Waterseal out of a spray can or brushed on liquid. I have found some 30 year old, not quite good enough/mistake pieces that looked good enough to use to this day, if I had not got rid of the boat. ETA - I can see the pics now (tablet challenges). Looks like a winner. I am guessing you are showing the bottom of the platform. I think a black paint or truck bedliner coating would look better than a clear sealer. View Quote Bedliner, I don't know, might add quite a bit of weight, maybe no more than paint, never used it before. |
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