2000 Maxima V6 under 30k miles. Just started an engine misfire. Cranks and runs fine in the morning, but if it is shut down for a few minutes and cranked back up will drop a cylinder and may or may not clean out after a few miles. When the cylinder drops out, it feels like a good clean consistent miss. Later after a many hours sit, may crank up just fine and run clean on all six.


My guess is a leaking injector flooding a cylinder or fouling the plug after shut off? (But could be coil, wires, plug or sensor issues.) What say you. Rear plugs are too hard to get too and I don't want to spend any extra money on this beast. If it's an injector, what are the chances a good injector additive (techron or other good product) may solve the problem?

Thanks
M4-AK

Not an expert but I do some work on my 90Z..Have you checked your codes yet? I found an O2 sensor problem recently that way...You can also put  a screwdriver to the top of your injector and your ear to the top of the screwdriver to listen to see of its working should make a rapid clicking sound ...good luck

Maxima.org

As mentioned it you have to check the engine codes. You can pop by an Advanced Auto Parts and they'll come read it for you. Or look for a local place that does diagnostics.

Pray you don't have to take it to a stealership.

Of course a 2000 with 30k probably is just complaining that it doesn't get driven enough.

Quoted: Not an expert but I do some work on my 90Z..Have you checked your codes yet? I found an O2 sensor problem recently that way...You can also put  a screwdriver to the top of your injector and your ear to the top of the screwdriver to listen to see of its working should make a rapid clicking sound ...good luck

Yep, I piddle around with my 90-z also and have experienced some of the same symptoms, check the ECU first as Voodoo said, my O2 sensor was guilty on occasion but the last time it did it, one of the the injector connectors had worked itself loose and I would have to pull over and push on it or wiggle it to get all six goin again.

Quoted: As mentioned it you have to check the engine codes. You can pop by an Advanced Auto Parts and they'll come read it for you. Or look for a local place that does diagnostics. Pray you don't have to take it to a stealership. Of course a 2000 with 30k probably is just complaining that it doesn't get driven enough.

Advance doesn't check codes, Auto Zone does.




ETA: At least around here, anyway.

Sell Sell Sell

Maxima.org shows that the 00 Maxima coils, were problematic and they changed them. Some of the symptoms of bad coil packs is engine knocking which mine does on lower octane fuel. Mine is supposed to run on mid and low without knocking, and mine does especially at tip in.

I'm going to have my codes checked and see if coils show up on the codes.

M4-AK

Engine Temp sensor.

To diaganose, when problem occurs, turn the car back off. Turn car ON but DO NOT START. Let the warm car sit ON for more than 5mins. Then start. If car runs ok, then it's your engine Temp sensor.

Quoted: Engine Temp sensor. To diaganose, when problem occurs, turn the car back off. Turn car ON but DO NOT START. Let the warm car sit ON for more than 5mins. Then start. If car runs ok, then it's your engine Temp sensor.

Thanks, I will try that tonite if it malfunctions. What does turning the switch on for more than 5 minutes do? Does it have a timeout function?

M4-AK

Most likely coils, but fuel issues or even the MAF sensor could give you problems like that.  I have a 2001 Max, and the plugs in the rear are not that bad, you just have to use multiple extentions and a real plug wrench with the rubber "plug-grabber" in it.  Also have a "magnet-on-a-stick" handy in case you drop anything.

Check your manual for recommended fuels, my brother had a 2000 Max and my 2001 both required high octane, due to compression.  I don't understand why your VQ 3.0l engine would be different.

Also do a search for the shop manual, every once in a while it will be out there on the net in PDF form.  The REAL Nissan manual that the company mechanics use.

Quoted: Most likely coils, but fule issues or even the MAF sensor could give you problems like that.  I have a 2001 Max, and the plugs in the rear are not tahat bad, you just have to use multiple extentions and a real plug wrench with the rubber "plug-grabber" in it.  Also have a "magnet-on-a-stick" handy in case you drop anything. Check your manual for recommended fuels, my borhter had a 2000 Max and my 2001 both required high octane, due to compression.  I don't understand why your VQ 3.0l engine would be different. Also do a search for the shop manual, every once in a while it will be out there on the net in PDF form.  The REAL Nissan manual that the company mechanics use.

My Dad's 00 automatic ran fine on any octane, just didn't have the torque on low octane. My 00 5speed likes to knock. Manual recomends 91 for best performance but suggests will run on minimum 87. I get the best gas mileage on midgrade 89, but performance suffers. During the 3 dollar gas, switched to mid grade but usually run 93 octane.

M4-AK

I ran two codes at Autozone. One was for ignition system something, couldn't write it down. Other was for misfire #6cylinder.

I pulled the front coil on 6 along with the plug and moved it to 4. Then reset the trouble codes. Will see if #4 gets a misfire. Changing the front coils is easy. The back ones are questionably harder.

M4-AK