Need Help/Air Rifle

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Posted: 3/13/2005 3:58:56 PM EDT

I just mounted a scope on my air rifle ( Gamo Young Hunter )after 2 years. I bought Gamo standard rings ( w/ the key slotted nuts, not the allen type ones ) and monuted it up.

It was a thing of beauty...

...until I fired it. The rings STILL SHIFT BACKWARDS.

I am exasperated at this point. I've tried everything - loc-tite, tightening to the point of bending the allen wrenches/screwdrivers, etc. Even the old scope stop I had broke.

Does anyone have ANY idea as to how to stop this shit from happening?

Better yet, are there any gun dealers on this board who could locate some beefy ass rings for 10mm mounts for me, and ship it to me ( I'd mail the cash directly to them )? Even the same rings would be fine, so I could double up and have 4 rings...

And while I'm at it, can anyone suggest an air rifle with the looks of the Gamo Shadow 1000, but has scope mounts/rails available ( in 1" and 30mm ) that just CANNOT shift? 1,000 FPS capability is good, but I think I'm looking for a .22 this time round.

ARFCOM help me!

we don't allow profanity in topic titles...... edited tbs

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:10:25 PM EDT

[#1]

Did you try here...?

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:15:02 PM EDT

[#2]

Nah, but I have no guarantee that those rings won't slip too. Additionally, I've tried all the recoil stops and those have always failed.

What I really need is a metal block welded to the end of the rail, but that would totally ruin the rifle's looks and value, and I can't find anyone crazy enough to do that.

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:18:18 PM EDT

[#3]

Throw a thin rubber shim on the top of the scope before you torque down the screws (30 in lbs).

Get the shim from something like a "letherette" case, about 1/32" thick. sand it so it is "grippy" on both sides.

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:23:39 PM EDT

[#4]

Wait a minute.... Do you mean right between the top strap of the scope ring and the scope tube, or between the action and the way bottom of the ring?

I'm not understanding where your logic is coming from. What would a strip of rubber do?

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:25:42 PM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
Wait a minute.... Do you mean right between the top strap of the scope ring and the scope tube, or between the action and the way bottom of the ring?

I'm not understanding where your logic is coming from. What would a strip of rubber do?

Yes, on the rings. Had to do it to my RWS, worked like a champ, never moved and held zero.

It was on a "desperate last chance before I smash this thing" test, that is how I came up with it, there is probably a better solution, but the rubber bushing stops the scope from sliding in the rings.

-- Edit, I see your mounts are moving, try it there. Worse that'll happen is it won't hold zero...

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:29:19 PM EDT

[#6]

There is a certain type of mount from Beeman ,that only will work. It is the only one made for the air rifle that wont slide. It took me three mounts before Iasked and was directed to the right mount for my RWS.

mount

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:32:24 PM EDT

[#7]

3M makes a black liquid in a can for electrical weatherproofing. Put a little inside the rings let it set for a few seconds and clamp the rings together.Works on my .338 Ultra and 416 Rigby. If you mean on the grovves you can put a little in the groove and clamp it down wipe off the excess.

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:36:48 PM EDT

[#8]

Burris

Posted: 3/13/2005 4:55:34 PM EDT

[#9]

I've also heard that rubber cement will kick the scope from shifting.

Posted: 3/13/2005 5:19:55 PM EDT

[#10]

I'm trying the rubber method first. The 3M thing comes later, if I see any movement after that. I'll turn to the RWS mounts as a very last resort, as I really don't want to be spending even MORE money for mounts.

My thumbs are tired from all the sanding....

Posted: 3/13/2005 5:54:32 PM EDT

[#11]

Alright, an updade:

I fitted two ~1/32" pieces of leather under the mounts to make it contact the reciever. It worked alright, but it still moved back 1mm in three shots. I am going to hit up the local hardware store tomorrow and get some rubber washers/o-rings/etc.

After that, 3-M and Beeman are my only hope.

Posted: 3/13/2005 5:57:04 PM EDT

[#12]

I had the same problem with mine. Only thing that worked was the Beeman mounts.

Posted: 3/13/2005 6:15:27 PM EDT

[#13]

epoxy.

-HS

Posted: 3/13/2005 6:25:16 PM EDT

[#14]

JB weld

Posted: 3/13/2005 6:27:16 PM EDT

[#15]

Is GD really necessary in your thread title?

Posted: 3/13/2005 6:28:56 PM EDT

[#16]

Quoted:
Is GD really necessary in your thread title?

I was waiting for that.

-HS

Posted: 3/13/2005 6:32:54 PM EDT

[#17]

I remember banging my head against the table in sheer frustration about how NOTHING would work.

Yeah, I'll let it stay.

Posted: 3/13/2005 11:14:38 PM EDT

[#18]

You can use Loctite Black Max adhesive but it will effectivly become one piece of metal.

Posted: 3/13/2005 11:27:10 PM EDT

[#19]

Anything that prevents metal to metal contact like leather or rubber is likely to affect the accuracy and is temporary. Eventually the impact will shift it.

The one thing that really works to prevent scope movement is ordinary pitch rosin. Gunsmiths use it to prevent barrel slip in barrel vises when doing action work. Machinists use it to prevent slip of parts in chucks, especially when the part is very hard. Its is an "anti-lubricant" instead of a glue.

Posted: 3/13/2005 11:38:33 PM EDT

[#20]

First off this happens all the time. Becuase air rifles recoil forward thats why the scope moves back. Anyway your rifle should of came with a little screw with rubber on it to keep the scope from moving. If you rifle did not come with one call Gamo. I have a GAmo hunter 440. I used to shoot it all the time. Kinda might pull it out sometime.

Posted: 3/14/2005 6:52:08 AM EDT

[#21]

Try using shims made from bicycle inner tube. You might be able to get some scrap material from a local bike shop.

Posted: 3/14/2005 9:28:27 AM EDT

[#22]

I can't find any good pictures of the Gamo Young Hunter, so just briefly:

Do your scope rings have a stop pin in them? Spring-piston airguns have stop cuts across the very back of the receiver, between the scope rails. Usually 2-3, a short distance apart. The scope rings have a metal pin that sticks down into this cut (-or across, into it in one brand) preventing the rings from shifting.

If you buy good airgun scope rings they will have a stop pin built-in to the rear ring already.
You are wasting your time trying to just use normal rings and tightening them, it PROBABLY will never hold.

Airgun scope stop blocks can be added for use with "firearm"/pinless rings also, but not if the gun has no stop notches in it.
http://www.pyramydair.com/ has them, click on "accessories" and "scopes", the last item is a Gamo scope stop block.
Or http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/ has some in their scope mounts section....
~~~~~~~

Posted: 3/14/2005 9:40:46 AM EDT

[#23]

I had the same problem with the scope I put on my RWS model 48. I broke down and spent $50 on the mount and haven't had a problem since.

Posted: 3/14/2005 9:43:51 AM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:
You can use Loctite Black Max adhesive but it will effectivly become one piece of metal.

Oh, hell yeah. Just make sue that you've got the scope and mount exactly where you want them, because they're not going anywhere ever again.

Posted: 3/14/2005 10:07:18 AM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:
Quoted:
You can use Loctite Black Max adhesive but it will effectivly become one piece of metal.
Oh, hell yeah. Just make sue that you've got the scope and mount exactly where you want them, because they're not going anywhere ever again.

Might as well get a Mig welder, some Argon gas, and aluminum wire so you can do a couple of spot welds, then cover it up with Krylon.

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