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Posted: 1/2/2005 11:06:59 PM EDT
My Impala has been cutting off while driving on me while driving again, it doesnt seen to make much of a difference if warm or just started.
Today since it didnt appeat to be getting spark we replace the ignition coil, MAF sensor has checked out ok, replaced fuel filter, oil pressure sensor, and TPS. It will just cut off on me sometimes it will crank right back up, sometimes will need to sit a few minutes or possible have battery cable pulled then reattached. Thinking possible fuel problems, since its close to empty will refill and try to tear was water in gas tomorrow. Anyone got any ideas, Im running low on them. |
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Have you checked the codes? Need more info...year, engine, etc.
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95 Impala SS 350LT1 Tried several times, gives no codes at all. |
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Sounds almost like a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
Thats kinda what my truck did to me. |
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If your fuel pump is in the tank, put a ball bat in your trunk. Next time it stops, pound on the bottom of the fuel tank several times with the ball bat. If it starts back up immediately, it's the fuel pump. When they are failing, the motor can get stuck, resulting in intermittent failures. I had it happen to me 3 times over a year, the last time it was in front of the local hotshot independent mechanic's place. He asked him to tow me home, he asked me a couple questions and did the above, and sent me home.
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Close meaning appox 20 gallons to fill up which should leave me around 3 or 4, I was closer to halftank today. |
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check for 2 fuel filters on it I had a caprice that had 2 and it did the same thing.
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I'm confused you're still getting no spark?
Check for fuel pressure, turn ignition most of the way but do not turn over starter. This should run the fuel pump. Unscrew the valve cap (looks like giant black plastic tire valve cover) on the fuel rail on the back of the plenum. There is a valve you can press in with a screwdriver. Fuel will spray if there is pressure so be careful with a rag or something. |
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What year was it? |
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We did that awhile back, it did spray fuel. |
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Also as info, my 4.3L GM will NOT spark if there is no fuel IIRC. Something with the way the computer is set up. I checked for spark when I had problems and had none, but was told that is normal if there is no fuel.
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Um that costs money, plus if I get a new car by March it will be hit by someome uninsured and damaged in some other way, There also isnt much out there I like, I pulled insurance off the other car since I havent drove it lately. |
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Ok I might have bad news, does it do it only after you drive for a while or you have been running it hard. Does it cut out when you accelerate but idle fine?
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Nope no pattern really, will cut out anywhere from taking off to coming down a hill not touch the gas. I drove 40 miles fine the other night, but it cut off just out the driveway and while driving for about 20 min lately too. I also dont like trying to push that thing, its kinda heavy. |
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Sounds like a fuel pump .
Oh and just as a side note , the " Sprays Fuel " at the Schrader valve trick don't mean shit . 5 psi will spit in your eye but your LT1 needs 28 PSI minimum . Of course that $100 LT1 style distributor cap is always suspect too . If it's the old single vent style that came stock on the 95 you could be looking at Ozone damaged distributor internal wiring ...... And you don't even want to know what that will cost you ETA They call it an optical distributor because your eyes pop out when your price it |
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Sounds like the POS Optispark distributer. It will cost you if that's it.
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And if Im correct its in a pain in the ass place too |
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Inverted 4mm torx ........ just to get the cap off and yeah its behind the water pump and driven off the cam with a tiny gear |
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Yeah under the water pump. I did it in my firebird. It should be wasier for you. You may want to do the water pump at the same time if it's old. |
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Just changed the waterpump a few months ago. |
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Was it leaking on the cap ?? You also need to get a mirror and look to see if the cap has 2 vents on it at 3 & 9 oclock . If it doesnt , thats a 10 year old cap . |
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Possibly some but this problem has been off and on for a year, so it happened before that too. Have to look at the cap tomorrow. |
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first one was an 85 had one in the "carb" and under the driver's door and my sister has (or should i say had some one torched the inside of it) 92 has one along the frame and one above the tank |
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got the one along the frame, have to look for the one above the tank later when I get home and have the decent jack.
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Impallas are 95-96 only right? should be vented. I did a '93 unvented POS. |
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94-96 this one is a 95. |
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I'm assuming the LT1 version has a fuel pressure regulator – if so, another item to check.
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if it is still an obd1 computer and not the odb2, jump terminal a&b with a paper clip and turn the key to light the dash but don't start it and read the trouble codes
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I had a similar problem with my Cavalier it would just quit, sometimes it would start back up other times it would have to cool first. OBD 1 would throw ignition codes but couldn't tell me if it was the module, the computer, the coil or the crank sensor. The dealer wanted to change all. I took the car home and replaced the least expensive item, the crank sensor, and solved the prob.........
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Big +1 on GM vehicles. I'd also suspect fuel delivery problem. You can get a tool fairly cheaply that will test the fuel pressure. I have about the same car ('95 Roadmaster) and ignition module is another fairly cheap part than can become intermitent and cause problems. Check over at www.impalassforum.com. GunLvr |
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No way! No better car on the road than a 1995 Impala. GunLvr |
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Well it stopped happening, didnt do it since I posted this, cut off once after the new ignition coil then didnt do it anymore.
Im kinda mad about it since I expect it will come back. I did put 18.5 Gal of 93 in it today, skipped the water treatment, probaly replace a few of the cheaper parts anyway. |
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Don't put "premium" in it too much or you will get lots of carbon build-up in the engine. GunLvr |
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This is an easy one.
It's your Ignition module. It's about a $20-$40 and it's right below your cap and rotor on the OUTSIDE of your distributor. It will have two wiring harnesses that plug into it. What happends is the di-electic grease dries up over time and it starts to overheat and stalls our your engine. It's actaully a part that people should replace every 50K-100K as a tune up item on chevys with distributors. I was able to get mine out without taking out the distributor so GET R DONE. You'll thank me later. |
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Strangely it stopped messing up. |
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