is 170F too hot to bake a complete upper in the oven with an Aimpoint mounted?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - is 170F too hot to bake a complete upper in the oven with an Aimpoint mounted? (Page 1 of 2)

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:03:08 PM EDT

Anyone? I am trying to get my upper to cure (Alumahyde 2) faster.... My oven won't go any lower.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:04:38 PM EDT

[#1]

Mind if I tag on with a similar question?

I'm going to do some refinishing with Norrell's Moly Resin, which they say should be baked at 300 degrees.

Will plastic handguards (even the old M16A1 triangular ones) stand up to this?

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:05:29 PM EDT

[#2]

How hot is your upper going to get laying in direct sun on a Humvee hood in the sandbox when the air temp is 120?

I would probably take the flip ups off!

I really dunno.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:05:32 PM EDT

[#3]

What's the issue with removal?

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:06:16 PM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:
Mind if I tag on with a similar question?

I'm going to do some refinishing with Norrell's Moly Resin, which they say should be baked at 300 degrees.

Will plastic handguards (even the old M16A1 triangular ones) stand up to this?

ooooo... I don't know. I would think so, but I'd still put them on a cookie sheet to make sure.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:06:37 PM EDT

[#5]

From Aimpoints web site:

Temperature Range -45ºC to +70ºC (-50ºF to +160ºF)

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:08:04 PM EDT

[#6]

I thought the Alumahyde 2 stuff was pretty much just engine paint. Or was that gunkote 2?

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:10:17 PM EDT

[#7]

Aimpoint/ most scopes are ok up to 180 in the oven. Plastic parts in 300 deg NOOOOOOO.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:11:03 PM EDT

[#8]

keep in mind that most, if not all ovens, dont just stay at a certain temp. They will heat up to +25 degrees, then shut the gas/element off, then turn back on at -25 degrees below the desired temp... so, your really looking at 170 + 25 (195).

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:11:52 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:
Mind if I tag on with a similar question?

I'm going to do some refinishing with Norrell's Moly Resin, which they say should be baked at 300 degrees.

Will plastic handguards (even the old M16A1 triangular ones) stand up to this?

No, at that temperature they will deform. Remove all non-metal parts before attempting to refinish in the oven. It's just common sense folks.

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:12:48 PM EDT

[#10]

Alumahyde II won't "cure" like any other product like GunKote. It's not much more than epoxy based paint and depending on the color, may take up to a week before it doesn't feel tacky to the touch.

Plastic parts like handguards can be baked for curing moly resin, Norrell recommends baking at 200* for two hours.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:13:05 PM EDT

[#11]

Why why why would you put your Aimpoint in the oven?

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:14:09 PM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
Why why why would you put your Aimpoint in the oven?

+1

Baking optics sounds like a really bad idea.

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:14:52 PM EDT

[#13]

Send your aimpoint to me if you dont want it anymore!

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:16:22 PM EDT

[#14]

DO NOT PUT YOUR AIMPOINT IN THE OVEN.

Hopefully common sense will prevail.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:18:51 PM EDT

[#15]

ROFL...this isn't as stupid as it sounds... I put a thermometer in there and the upper and lower are lying on a cookie sheet....with the oven door OPEN. It's not getting above about 120 in there. If the Aimpoint won't survive 120F of indirect heat they'd never make it in the box.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:20:01 PM EDT

[#16]

Try it out and let us know!

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:20:12 PM EDT

[#17]

And the reason I'm doing it is the ENTIRE upper including mounted Aimpoint has been painted with Alumahyde II. I've done this before with Krylon, Alumahyde will just hold up better.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:23:29 PM EDT

[#18]

Wait an hour or two and rub a roast in the meantime.....that way you can make dinner and cure your finish at the same time. Just be sure not to baste it when you are caring for the roast. You'll even save a few kilowatt minutes of electricity and/or cubic inches of natural gas. I also heard that if you bake your Aimpoint at 350 degrees for 40 minutes that it will get out all the moisture.....Guranteed. Post Pics Please

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:36:41 PM EDT

[#19]

Doing fine. I can reach in and touch the Aimpoint, and while it's unpleasantly warm, it's no hotter than I've had them lying in the sun before.

Posted: 9/16/2004 12:59:37 PM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:
Why why why would you put your Aimpoint in the oven?

+1

It might be OK, but why test it?

Posted: 9/16/2004 1:08:42 PM EDT

[#21]

try it with a tacpoint and post pics/report

Posted: 9/16/2004 1:14:32 PM EDT

[#22]

yes pics before and after

Posted: 9/16/2004 1:21:56 PM EDT

[#23]

I wouldn't try it. Although the dial says 170F, oven thermostates are notoroiously wrong. Mine is off 50F all across the dial...50F hotter than what I set the dial for. This, along with the temperature swing that occurs when the heating elements turn on are likely to exceed 200F.

I'd bet a Tacpoint would survive though.

Posted: 9/16/2004 1:29:16 PM EDT

[#24]

this is why I have a thermometer lying on the cookie sheet next to the scope...it's not reading over 120.

Posted: 9/16/2004 1:32:36 PM EDT

[#25]

pics!!!

We need pics, QS!!

Posted: 9/16/2004 1:37:59 PM EDT

[#26]

plastic in oven at 300 with moly not a good idea i know i tryed it

the hand gaurds were unlined no heat sheald they didnt make it they just fell in on them selfs

Posted: 9/16/2004 2:25:35 PM EDT

[#27]

Stand by for a pic...

Posted: 9/16/2004 2:27:37 PM EDT

[#28]

*pictures melty aimpoint*

Posted: 9/16/2004 2:35:17 PM EDT

[#29]

OK, fresh out of the oven and cooled down. Still a little soft and tacky, I'm going to let it sit a few days before I mount the rail panels. Aimpoint is still perfectly functional.

I shouldn't have painted the VFG...I'm probably going to scrub that off with a scotchbrite pad before it really sets up.

Posted: 9/16/2004 3:06:43 PM EDT

[#30]

I thought I was gonna put my eye out?

Posted: 9/16/2004 3:14:07 PM EDT

[#31]

... Residential ovens are not calibrated to any reliable degree (no pun intended). I would not use one on applications where a fluctuation +/- 20°F could jeopardize your product or process.

Posted: 9/16/2004 3:20:12 PM EDT

[#32]

Quoted:
DO NOT PUT YOUR AIMPOINT IN THE OVEN.

Hopefully common sense will prevail.

Yeah, no shit...jeebus...don't put your fucking Aimpoint in an OVEN!!!

Posted: 9/16/2004 3:36:35 PM EDT

[#33]

Quoted:
... Residential ovens are not calibrated to any reliable degree (no pun intended). I would not use one on applications where a fluctuation +/- 20°F could jeopardize your product or process.

I watched the thermometer that I put in there WITH THE STUFF..it fluctuated between 120 and 140 with the door open, which was the way it remained.

Posted: 9/16/2004 10:19:53 PM EDT

[#34]

AHII doesn't really *need* to be heated to 140F. I let my parts air dry for 4-5 hours, then move them close to a lightbulb left on for 3 days. At that point, it's cured.

-z

Posted: 9/17/2004 12:16:09 AM EDT

[#35]

looks like a toy gun now.

Posted: 9/17/2004 12:22:49 AM EDT

[#36]

I-ay ancay eesay ouryay erialsay umbernay.

I hope that's okay. Some people have a problem with that.

Posted: 9/17/2004 12:24:53 AM EDT

[#37]

Quoted:
looks like a toy gun now.

No kidding!...

You should paint the flash hider orange!

Posted: 9/17/2004 6:51:29 AM EDT

[#38]

It's called "reducing the visual signature", guys. If you don't get it,please carry on.

Posted: 9/17/2004 6:58:38 AM EDT

[#39]

Here in Fl I just put stuff in the car during the day. I did a shotgun and a bunch of A1 furniture like that. The inside temp in a car here can get way over a hundred.
Just a word about alumahyde11, it cures better with TIME, not heat. You still need to let that sit for a week or so, two is better.

Posted: 9/17/2004 7:05:52 AM EDT

[#40]

Quoted:
It's called "reducing the visual signature", guys. If you don't get it,please carry on.

"Visual Signature" is, for humans anyway, is dependant on object, pattern and outline and a monochromatic color scheme only exacerbates the problem - think FOF flash cards.

On the plus side, is that your particular rifle does not fit and "expected pattern" (as of yet) and therefore should obfuscate well... especially if you are trying to hide in a pack of elephants.

Posted: 9/17/2004 7:09:08 AM EDT

[#41]

It's not grey, it's brown..and the contrast doesn't show as well in the pic as it does in real life. And the rail panels, grip and stock are different shades of brown. The rail panels are not visible in this pic..

Posted: 9/17/2004 7:14:35 AM EDT

[#42]

Relax... just wanted to make an elephant joke (rarely does one get the chance to). I am sure that once the other shades of brown are added, it will pretty stealthy... at least you understand that concept of how humans see objects and that traditional camo is probably not all it is cracked up to be. Nice looking rifle by the way...

Posted: 9/17/2004 7:20:30 AM EDT

[#43]

Thats about 76C.

I run electronic assemblies up to 85C all the time, last week I ran a radio up to 300F (150C).

I highly, highly doubt that would hurt anything.

Posted: 9/17/2004 4:04:01 PM EDT

[#44]

QS,

If you get a chance, after it cures, can you snap a pic of it outside??

That's where it really matters. Doesn't really matter how a gun looks sitting on a bench. IMO.
(much to the chagrin of some members here)

Posted: 9/17/2004 4:10:12 PM EDT

[#45]

Residential oven thermometers are not accurate. By setting at 170, you could get anything from 140 to 200+. I would not do it unless you could put a calibrated thermometer on the oven rack that you trust.

Posted: 9/17/2004 4:29:32 PM EDT

[#46]

My concern isn't as much as the optics, rheostat etc, its the rubber O-rings and gaskets that keep the sight waterproof. I know those things shouldnt be heated. Oh well...indoor/dry weather optic only now...

Posted: 9/17/2004 5:04:12 PM EDT

[#47]

Did you disassemble it before applying the AHII, or did you do it all at once?

Posted: 9/17/2004 8:28:08 PM EDT

[#48]

Quoted:
Residential oven thermometers are not accurate. By setting at 170, you could get anything from 140 to 200+. I would not do it unless you could put a calibrated thermometer on the oven rack that you trust.

Did you read his entire post??

You just posted this, well AFTER he had done it.

Posted: 9/17/2004 8:29:12 PM EDT

[#49]

Damn, that looks sharp.

*edited to add: Nice gunners grips. I can't wait to get my Kimber 'Warrior'.

Posted: 9/18/2004 8:19:30 PM EDT

[#50]

Quoted:
QS,

If you get a chance, after it cures, can you snap a pic of it outside??

That's where it really matters. Doesn't really matter how a gun looks sitting on a bench. IMO.
(much to the chagrin of some members here)

Yes, I took some at the campsite at the Midwest Arfcom shoot today..brass will post them when he gets back. We leaned it up against a tree and stepped back about 10 yards. Seth_Livzz's comment was "you could leave that fucker right there and it would still be there in a week, because NO ONE WOULD ever find it."

I'll snap a couple outside tomorrow and post 'em.

BTW...I ran 500 rounds through it today with no problems.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - is 170F too hot to bake a complete upper in the oven with an Aimpoint mounted? (Page 1 of 2)

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