User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 3:43:25 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd do 16" on center rafters and 2' furring.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 3:48:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd do 16" on center rafters and 2' furring. damn, that's going to be a lot of 2x6's. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:02:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Careful, this could turn into a clusterfuck like the roof truss thread did.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:09:24 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Careful, this could turn into a clusterfuck like the roof truss thread did.  |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:11:37 PM EDT
[#5]
Seriously, WTF? You can't just build a lean-to without consulting and engineer. Also an architect and general contractor would make more sense. You think you can just go out and build a lean-to?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:16:10 PM EDT
[#6]
Are you inside the city limits? Or under any sort of building code?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:18:29 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seriously, WTF? You can't just build a lean-to without consulting and engineer. Also an architect and general contractor would make more sense. You think you can just go out and build a lean-to? Yes. Along with whatever additions I feel like building. <<shrugs>> |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:22:31 PM EDT
[#8]
You can find span tables on the internet.
Do you have access to 20ft long 2x6s? Finding them could be a challenge, and expensive. Also, 20 ft is a long span for a 2x6, even at 16" o.c., and since we don't know what you are loading the roof with, 2x6s at 16" o.c. may not even be enough. Purlin spacing will depend primarily on what you are attaching to the rafters. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:24:48 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I have tried to find this info on the web and to no luck. I am basically building a lean to off the side of an existing shed that will be 20ft wide and 50ft long, with 6x6's cementing into the ground and then strapped to the slab once it's poured. I am using some 26 gauge metal roofing. No snow load down here, but wind's can get serious. What part of Louisiana are you in? I'm from Nola but moved to the ArkLaMiss area about a year ago. Weather / humidity is drastically different from back home. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:25:33 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
damn, that's going to be a lot of 2x6's. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'd do 16" on center rafters and 2' furring. damn, that's going to be a lot of 2x6's. That's a long span for a 2x6. May wanna go with 2x8 or 2x10 even. You can go 24" centers then. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:25:42 PM EDT
[#11]
The length of the rafters will be the deciding factor. With metal roofing, 2' OC should be good for the purlins. Probably the same for rafters. The longer they are, the closer they should be.
ETA: 20 feet is too long for 2x6s in almost any arrangement. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:39:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The length of the rafters will be the deciding factor. With metal roofing, 2' OC should be good for the purlins. Probably the same for rafters. The longer they are, the closer they should be. ETA: 20 feet is too long for 2x6s in almost any arrangement. How far apart are the vertical members? 16 feet with two foot of overhang on each end or are you using a structure for load bearing on one end? Do it right even if it costs more. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:49:28 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seriously, WTF? You can't just build a lean-to without consulting and engineer. Also an architect and general contractor would make more sense. You think you can just go out and build a lean-to? lol, I'll have to do that shit by my house, but out in the country zero fucks are given.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:49:46 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you inside the city limits? Or under any sort of building code? nope, in the swamp. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:50:18 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What part of Louisiana are you in? I'm from Nola but moved to the ArkLaMiss area about a year ago. Weather / humidity is drastically different from back home. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I have tried to find this info on the web and to no luck. I am basically building a lean to off the side of an existing shed that will be 20ft wide and 50ft long, with 6x6's cementing into the ground and then strapped to the slab once it's poured. I am using some 26 gauge metal roofing. No snow load down here, but wind's can get serious. What part of Louisiana are you in? I'm from Nola but moved to the ArkLaMiss area about a year ago. Weather / humidity is drastically different from back home. Humidity sucks, lol Houma area. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 4:51:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How far apart are the vertical members? 16 feet with two foot of overhang on each end or are you using a structure for load bearing on one end? Do it right even if it costs more. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The length of the rafters will be the deciding factor. With metal roofing, 2' OC should be good for the purlins. Probably the same for rafters. The longer they are, the closer they should be. ETA: 20 feet is too long for 2x6s in almost any arrangement. How far apart are the vertical members? 16 feet with two foot of overhang on each end or are you using a structure for load bearing on one end? Do it right even if it costs more. trying to go as wide as possible. the other end is attached to a metal building. It's just to get my boat out of the sun. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 5:17:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
damn, that's going to be a lot of 2x6's. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'd do 16" on center rafters and 2' furring. damn, that's going to be a lot of 2x6's. If you're doing a 2x6 with center beam 12" and balloon wall on each end. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 5:34:47 PM EDT
[#18]
6-8' centers on rafters, 4' on furring. That is assuming you are using 2x for furring. The rafters need to be closer together if you use 1x furring.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 5:39:50 PM EDT
[#19]
20' span is a hell of a stretch for a 2x6. It might say pretty badly eventually, but maybe you don't care.
Are you going to hang much over the support at the bottom? Let it run a few feet over if you can. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 5:48:49 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Careful, this could turn into a clusterfuck like the roof truss thread did. As a carpenter, I'll just sit back and smile at all the goofy advice. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 5:51:27 PM EDT
[#21]
By using a peaked rafter assembly (Yes, not a lean to). you can achieve what you want with 2x6 at two foot centers.
ETA: four foot centers on furring would be fine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 6:04:33 PM EDT
[#22]
thanks for all the replies.
I think I have more questions now. lol I may go with 2x4x8's spaced 3' apart, with the furrings 4 feet apart. It's just a sunshade. Unless this isn't going to work, then I'll have to reconfigure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 7:13:29 PM EDT
[#23]
Ask TheRedGoat or bcauz3y
There was a PDF article/book linked in the bcauz3y tree house thread on building practices that you should read. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 7:21:17 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As an engineer and proficient amateur carpenter, I'll just sit back and smile at all the goofy advice. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Careful, this could turn into a clusterfuck like the roof truss thread did. As an engineer and proficient amateur carpenter, I'll just sit back and smile at all the goofy advice. Slight edit to explain my viewpoint. Let the hilarity ensue. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 7:29:13 PM EDT
[#25]
If you go to southernpine.com they have load and span tables. OP., what you are wanting to build sounds rather large for somebody who has to ask this kind of question.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 7:31:21 PM EDT
[#26]
Instead of laughing, why not contribute? OP is asking for help.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 8:23:38 PM EDT
[#27]
Op, send me an IM. I'm an engineer with a lot of construction experience. I'll talk you through it on the phone if you want and get you squared away.
Serious offer. I'm not stamping anything, but I'll get you moving in the right direction. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 8:42:19 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Instead of laughing, why not contribute? OP is asking for help. Liability fears. If somebody random reads this thread and follows the advice, these days they could be theoretically sued. 
There's also a lack of information that can't really be filled in short of photographs and blueprints of the existing building, along with soil/foundation information. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 8:59:21 PM EDT
[#29]
I wouldn't trust 2x6's out to 20', seen too many of them start sagging. Farthest I would be comfortable going would be 16', and even then you still run the risk of sagging. I can't see your location, but is there any issues with snow?
As far as the furring strips, you can go every 2', but they're not necessary if you keep your rafters on 16" centers. I've seen a lot of barns built here locally this way, and recently built a 24x36' in the same manner. I also used 26 ga 5v metal roofing, all 3' wide. Its been that way for 2+ years, without a single issue. Of course, we don't have snow loading issues, so your results may not be the same. Now, if I could do it over again, I would have run OSB on the roof under the tin. At the time, OSB was $13/sheet, and I was too cheap to spend the extra cash. I'm actually in the process of building another 24x32' building, and this one will use OSB on the roof (now that it is $6/sheet). |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:01:14 PM EDT
[#30]
Google span tables, pick the deflection you are comfortable with. Same thing an engineer would do. For a lean to on a she you can have a pretty good amount of deflection and be safe.
The rest of the htead is "it worked, it didn't work" etc...you'll get numbers of bewteen 16" and 24" depending on the size of your faters and lumber grade, span and what deflection you need for most of what you would normally put in a lean to. We dn't have bulding codes here so whatever. Unless it's a retail/commercial building you're on your own for what you want to do. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:09:53 PM EDT
[#31]
http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SPtable17_060113.pdf
Even at the lightest load you would need 2x8s 12" on center.... Number 1s Assuming I grabbed the right table. 20' is a big stick. Any chance you can get rough sawn oak? Once that dries it will be stronger than the pine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:10:17 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Op, send me an IM. I'm an engineer with a lot of construction experience. I'll talk you through it on the phone if you want and get you squared away. Serious offer. I'm not stamping anything, but I'll get you moving in the right direction. thanks i'll shoot you one on Monday after I sketch something up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:12:18 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SPtable17_060113.pdf Even at the lightest load you would need 2x8s 12" on center.... Number 1s Assuming I grabbed the right table. 20' is a big stick. Any chance you can get rough sawn oak? Once that dries it will be stronger than the pine. I doubt I could get oak. I could get cypress though.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:13:46 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you go to southernpine.com they have load and span tables. OP., what you are wanting to build sounds rather large for somebody who has to ask this kind of question. well, I can follow directions and I have gutted and re built homes and built other structures. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:22:40 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
well, I can follow directions and I have gutted and re built homes and built other structures. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If you go to southernpine.com they have load and span tables. OP., what you are wanting to build sounds rather large for somebody who has to ask this kind of question. well, I can follow directions and I have gutted and re built homes and built other structures. Fair enough, best of luck to you. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:31:33 PM EDT
[#36]
You could add another support down the middle so your only going out 10' instead of 20' on each rafter and then you could easily do 36" apart with a 2x6 for a roof as you are describing but it will mean a few more posts in the middle. With a "pole barn" style shouldn't be an issue.
But 20' isn't going to happen with 2x6's without fear of sag or failure in my opinion. I've done 12' with 2x6's on 24" centers and they have held up just fine. Wouldn't do more than that though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:33:38 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
thanks i'll shoot you one on Monday after I sketch something up. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Op, send me an IM. I'm an engineer with a lot of construction experience. I'll talk you through it on the phone if you want and get you squared away. Serious offer. I'm not stamping anything, but I'll get you moving in the right direction. thanks i'll shoot you one on Monday after I sketch something up. Perfect, I'm about to die in this 80 F and 50% humidity I was whining about in that other thread. I don't think I can talk to a guy from Louisiana till I get into some AC. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 9:43:34 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Perfect, I'm about to die in this 80 F and 50% humidity I was whining about in that other thread. I don't think I can talk to a guy from Louisiana till I get into some AC. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Op, send me an IM. I'm an engineer with a lot of construction experience. I'll talk you through it on the phone if you want and get you squared away. Serious offer. I'm not stamping anything, but I'll get you moving in the right direction. thanks i'll shoot you one on Monday after I sketch something up. Perfect, I'm about to die in this 80 F and 50% humidity I was whining about in that other thread. I don't think I can talk to a guy from Louisiana till I get into some AC. LoL |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/15/2015 11:38:01 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Perfect, I'm about to die in this 80 F and 50% humidity I was whining about in that other thread. I don't think I can talk to a guy from Louisiana till I get into some AC. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op, send me an IM. I'm an engineer with a lot of construction experience. I'll talk you through it on the phone if you want and get you squared away. Serious offer. I'm not stamping anything, but I'll get you moving in the right direction. thanks i'll shoot you one on Monday after I sketch something up. Perfect, I'm about to die in this 80 F and 50% humidity I was whining about in that other thread. I don't think I can talk to a guy from Louisiana till I get into some AC. Being from LA that sounds more like fall of the year rather than summer. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
