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Posted: 11/4/2013 5:15:06 PM EDT
[#1]
I would suggest fault tracing the timing circuit, but you may want someone with more knowledge of electricity to do that safely.
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Posted: 11/4/2013 5:20:49 PM EDT
[#2]
You did verify you had 120v on each leg and 240v across the legs first, right? 120v will run the motor and timer but it isn't going to heat.
If you did, then yes, it's likely the timer. Does it work correctly in the different settings? [other then heat] |
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Posted: 11/4/2013 5:25:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You did verify you had 120v on each leg and 240v across the legs first, right? 120v will run the motor and timer but it isn't going to heat. If you did, then yes, it's likely the timer. Does it work correctly in the different settings? [other then heat] I did not. I verified the 240v breaker was good then test-ran the dryer. Time to dig out the multimeter I suppose. So if I've got 240 you're thinking timer? How complex is the circuit from the timer to the "hot parts" (which are all new)? |
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Posted: 11/4/2013 5:29:31 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did not. I verified the 240v breaker was good then test-ran the dryer. Time to dig out the multimeter I suppose. So if I've got 240 you're thinking timer? How complex is the circuit from the timer to the "hot parts" (which are all new)? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You did verify you had 120v on each leg and 240v across the legs first, right? 120v will run the motor and timer but it isn't going to heat. If you did, then yes, it's likely the timer. Does it work correctly in the different settings? [other then heat] I did not. I verified the 240v breaker was good then test-ran the dryer. Time to dig out the multimeter I suppose. So if I've got 240 you're thinking timer? How complex is the circuit from the timer to the "hot parts" (which are all new)? There really isn't much else to replace. The schematic will be by the timer inside the cover if it isn't plastered on the back. Check 120v at the back of the dryer where the pigtail screws in then across the legs for 240v. |
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Posted: 11/4/2013 5:34:16 PM EDT
[#5]
I'm getting good power. Time to order a timer I suppose. Thank for your help guys!
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Posted: 12/11/2013 11:26:50 AM EDT
[#6]
replaced the timer. Still no heat.
At this point I have replaced everything involved in heating. I have done selective interchange with each part and verified Im getting good power. Still no heat. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 12:33:07 PM EDT
[#7]
OK, what you have left is the motor centrifugal switch. Does the motor sound different then it used to? Maybe a bit buzzy? Usually, the motor will over heat after running if the switch does not pull the start windings out but occasionally, the switch itself will fail and not send power back.
Between the timer and motor, I replace about 20 timers for every motor. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 12:44:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, what you have left is the motor centrifugal switch. Does the motor sound different then it used to? Maybe a bit buzzy? Usually, the motor will over heat after running if the switch does not pull the start windings out but occasionally, the switch itself will fail and not send power back. Between the timer and motor, I replace about 20 timers for every motor. This.... get to the motor and you can test the switch as well. Motor spins, switch engages and the element gets power to heat up.. sometimes just cleaning the weighted part of the switch will get it going again.. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 12:52:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Go out to the circuit breaker and switch the dryer circuit off and on a couple of times. I had the exact symptoms you describe and replaced parts you replaced. The circuit breaker switch was not passing along the 220 volt part. This is not an uncommon occurrence.
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Posted: 12/11/2013 1:40:50 PM EDT
[#10]
I had an old Whirlpool dryert that would run and dry clothes. But you would have to run it 2 or 3 cycles to get them dry. It would gert warm but not hot. It turns out that one of the wires feeding the heating element was compromised so it only got 110v instead of 220v. Check the internal wiring.
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Posted: 12/11/2013 1:53:09 PM EDT
[#11]
I thought my drier had an air-flow switch that had to be made before it would heat.
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Posted: 12/11/2013 1:54:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
I've got an older Kenmore badged whirlpool dryer. It's no longer heating. The timer is still timing so I started replacing the cheaper stuff first. I replaced both thermostats(the one on the heating element and the one on the outlet), the heating element, and the thermal fuse. It still won't heat. I am thinking it must be the timer. Is there anything else left? I've got about $35 invested so far and a timer will double that. What else should I be looking at? You should look at a Fisher and Paykel, although I'm pretty sure that will more than double the 35$ you have invested thus far in trying to fix your broken Kenmore |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 2:02:55 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Go out to the circuit breaker and switch the dryer circuit off and on a couple of times. I had the exact symptoms you describe and replaced parts you replaced. The circuit breaker switch was not passing along the 220 volt part. This is not an uncommon occurrence. I, also, had this phenomenon. Happened while away. Might have been a brownout. Did this first tho so I didn't blow any money. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 4:13:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Thanks FXN, and everyone else.
Im going to work on this some more tonight. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 4:43:15 PM EDT
[#15]
You probably already have this covered if you have proper voltage everywhere, but be on the lookout for any thermal fuses, and check continuity on them. That's what cause my last drier issue. . .also the issue with the last tv I fixed.
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Posted: 12/11/2013 4:56:42 PM EDT
[#16]
I've had more than a few electric dryers stop heating. Every time it was the heating element.
Looks like a big spring. Look for a break in it and then just stretch it out and twist it together. You'll be gtg. |
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