User Panel
Posted: 2/10/2013 1:10:04 PM EDT
I've always used blue Loctite on scope rings, but some friends tell me you should never put Loctite on them. I always Loctite every screw on a firearm, am I wrong?
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Anything that has crews on my weapons are either blue or red locktited in depending on what kind of temperatures the part will be exposed to.
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Quoted: Anything that has crews on my weapons are either blue or red locktited in depending on what kind of temperatures the part will be exposed to. Yes. |
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Glad I'm not the only one, this guy at work kept saying that the scope makers warned not to use it.
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No
Clean screws and screw holes with denatured alcohol, torque to 15 inch pounds evenly. If rings are lapped, scope will not move when firing. |
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Glad I'm not the only one, this guy at work kept saying that the scope makers warned not to use it. Probably because they've seen scopes glued into the rings, or destroyed cap screws from trying to disassemble it. I do some pretty hardcore stuff, like epoxy bedding a scope into the rings, but I will not use Loctite on cap screws. |
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Teflon tape is just as good. Ptfe is slippery. That is not what you want. Tape is used when someone isn't willing to do things right and lap the rings. I use (iirc) 602 green to bed the base to the reciever. Install rings and lap them. Then the green between the scope and rings. All screws get red. Be sure to torque all screws to the appropriate in. lbs. Over tightening only over stresses the screws and threads. Yes, it's permanent (not really). It's permanent unless you apply a soldering iron or acetone then they come right apart. I've NEVER had a scope shift. |
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Once I get things the way I want them I loctite EVERYTHING. This with the blue stuff. |
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I use blue on mine. Quoted:
Once I get things the way I want them I loctite EVERYTHING. Ditto to both of the above. |
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Blue here too. Anything with threads. Holy shit, I thought you were Dave_A for a second! |
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Never have used it on the ring themselves, always use blue on the base. Never had anything come loose on somewhere around 35-45 rifles, everything from 22lr to 458 Winchester.
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Never on anything, except if suggested by manufacturer on internal parts. Everything gets a pre-flight check before range time and then again at cleaning.
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use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well.
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Quoted:
use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well. I use blue on things that might need to come off again, and red for everything I want to stay for good. |
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use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well. How interesting. One of my friends has a .408 rifle that I had to modify the scope base for... He used Black Max under the base for final assembly. |
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use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well. That black max stuff is no bs...I cut down a Ruger Blackhawk and used that to put the front site back on...5 years and 2000+ of 45 Colt later its still stuck on there. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well. How interesting. One of my friends has a .408 rifle that I had to modify the scope base for... He used Black Max under the base for final assembly. But you would have no problem removing blue Loctite...which is what I and most others use. Right? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well. How interesting. One of my friends has a .408 rifle that I had to modify the scope base for... He used Black Max under the base for final assembly. But you would have no problem removing blue Loctite...which is what I and most others use. Right? No, it's usually not a problem to get off. Red, if it's applied to properly cleaned and prepped threads, is damn near permanent. |
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Once I get things the way I want them I loctite EVERYTHING. Same here. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
use the blue. if you don't mind spending a small fortune on Black Max, use it on anything you don't want to be removed of loosned ever again. I think it's about $60 an Oz. pricey but works VERY well. How interesting. One of my friends has a .408 rifle that I had to modify the scope base for... He used Black Max under the base for final assembly. But you would have no problem removing blue Loctite...which is what I and most others use. Right? No, it's usually not a problem to get off. Red, if it's applied to properly cleaned and prepped threads, is damn near permanent. I learned my lesson with red Loctite on my Jeep. I had to use MAPP gas and a two foot breaker bar to free the bolt. |
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Quoted: Once I get things the way I want them I loctite EVERYTHING. +1 All scope screw/bolts
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Quoted:
No Clean screws and screw holes with denatured alcohol, torque to 15 inch pounds evenly. If rings are lapped, scope will not move when firing. +1 |
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Quoted: Lap the rings first to assure proper contact, then degrease and torque them. In 30 years, I've never had a ring screw come loose.Quoted: No Clean screws and screw holes with denatured alcohol, torque to 15 inch pounds evenly. If rings are lapped, scope will not move when firing. +1 |
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I've always used blue Loctite on scope rings, but some friends tell me you should never put Loctite on them. I always Loctite every screw on a firearm, am I wrong? I use blue Loctite on my ring cap screws, torquing them down to 20 in/# for steel and ~18 in/# for alloy rings. I then make a witness mark across the screw head and onto the edge of the cap proper, to visually show me if the screws start backing out any. Chris |
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on my rimfires that don't generate alot of recoil I just tighten the screws down. On anything else use blue loctite.
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I think I did, let me look. Oh shit, I know what I will be doing next weekend. |
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I usually use the purple(wicking) thread sealer. Had a guy bring me a rifle that he had used the green on his rings and mount. Wondered why he couldn't budge them. Told him green was permanent. Took a few days to carefully cut it apart without damaging the scope.
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yes, nothing else though unless it is not critical, firearm screws are designed to work without locktite
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Quoted:
I usually use the purple(wicking) thread sealer. Had a guy bring me a rifle that he had used the green on his rings and mount. Wondered why he couldn't budge them. Told him green was permanent. Took a few days to carefully cut it apart without damaging the scope. Red and Green have their place, but blue is best for most applications. |
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yes, nothing else though unless it is not critical, firearm screws are designed to work without locktite I like a little extra insurance, and blue Loctite is not difficult to remove. |
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