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Posted: 5/16/2002 1:34:17 PM EDT
Are extended warranties on trucks generally a good idea? I have a 2002 dodge cummins 4x4 with manual tranny. So far I am logging about 2,000 miles/month. To increase my warranty to five years, 75,000 miles would cost me about $130/month. The truck as is from the factory comes with 3 years, 36,000 miles bumper to bumper and 5 years, 100,000 on the engine.

Karl
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 1:48:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Go to your local library, and check out the antigun Consumer Report repair record of your truck for that year. If they have a lot of black circles, it may be worth it. The American car manufacturers has had a pretty dismal track record in for reliability.
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 1:55:55 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 2:03:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Ah you have come to the right place. As a former salesmanager for a dodge store, if you are buying a Cummns turbo deisel with the 100k warranty dont bother with the extended warranty. If you were not buying a diesel than absolutely. Only buy a factory extended service plan. Never buy the aftermarket shit warranties because they usually are not anywhere near as good of a policy as a factory policy.

[beer]
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 2:26:32 PM EDT
[#4]
I am not concerned about the engine (the reason I bought the Dodge was the ctd) and I feel good about the 5 years/100k warranty on it. But, my main concern lies in the body and everything else bolted around the motor. Are the bodies, manual transmissions, drive train, solid axles, and electronics good enough that a 3year/36k will be sufficient? It seems like a huge throw of the dice. Pay a thousand dollars now and probably never need a warranty or drop the tranny at 36,001 and be out $3,000.

Karl
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 2:53:45 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I am not concerned about the engine (the reason I bought the Dodge was the ctd) and I feel good about the 5 years/100k warranty on it. But, my main concern lies in the body and everything else bolted around the motor. Are the bodies, manual transmissions, drive train, solid axles, and electronics good enough that a 3year/36k will be sufficient? It seems like a huge throw of the dice. Pay a thousand dollars now and probably never need a warranty or drop the tranny at 36,001 and be out $3,000.

Karl
View Quote

That is why you should check the anti-gun Consumers Report on the repair record of the truck. It will give you fair idea of what to expect in terms of what the problem areas are. They are not 100% accurate, but it is better than whistling in the dark. How much is the dealer charging you for the extended warranty? If it is really expensive could be they expecting some real problems.
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 3:00:57 PM EDT
[#6]
This kind of piggybacks on what others have already said, but I think it is useful info.  There are two types of extended warranties, inclusive and exclusive.  An inclusive warranty will spell out everything that is covered under the warranty.  In the contract it will say:

Covers:
Engine - Block and cyl heads and all internally lubricated parts including pistons, piston rings and pins, crankshaft, mainbearings, rods and rod bearings, etc

It will go through and list every single part that is covered.  If the item that breaks is not specifically listed in your contract you are SOL.  An exclusive warranty is much better (although few companies offer them).  A exclusive will basically say:

Covers:
Engine - Everything except oil filter, fan belt, etc.  It will basically list all of your normal maintenance items.  This will CYA much better than the first warranty.

The other thing I am going to stress is DON'T PAY RETAIL.  I work for a company that sells extended warranties, and there is HUGE markup in all of them.  The dealers cost is 55% of MSRP (which is almost always what they quote you).  

If you answer these questions I can let you know about how much a warranty like that should run (if you buy one).  

Model: 2500 or 3500
Current Mileage:
State:

I highly doubt retail will even be over $2000, and dealer cost shouldn't be more than $1100.  If they won't budge look around.  Somebody will sell you one for less.  
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 3:26:20 PM EDT
[#7]
I drive a 2002 ram 2500. 12,000 miles. I live in Oregon.

Thanks,

Karl
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 3:47:53 PM EDT
[#8]
The ones we sell break down like this.  

New Car Warranty - $1,152 Retail 5/yr. 60k miles. ($635 cost)
New Car Warranty - $1,458 Retail 6/75k ($802 cost)
Used Car Warranty - $2,040 Retail 5/60k $1122 cost)

I think you should still qualify under the new car warranty guidelines (based on mileage and age) and those are a lot cheaper than the used car warrantys.  

Hope this helps, give the dealer hell and get a don't be happy unless they give you a huge discount.
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 3:51:20 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:

Only buy a factory extended service plan. Never buy the aftermarket shit warranties..............

[beer]
View Quote

"Factory" extended warranties - buy.
Link Posted: 5/16/2002 7:44:07 PM EDT
[#10]
I would like to thank all of you for your advice. I have scheduled an appointment with the manager of the dealership where a purchased the vehicle. I feel more informed now thanks to my ar15.com family.

Karl
Link Posted: 5/17/2002 5:02:44 AM EDT
[#11]
And remember, like everything else, the price is negotiable.  Just make sure that it's backed by the factory, not the dealer or some other 3rd party.
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