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Posted: 2/20/2019 11:24:12 AM EDT
I pick up a lot of random steel at the scrap yard for various projects dirt cheap. I find all kinds of rusty shit like tools such as hammers, wrenches, ax's, shears, etc, steel for welding, and all sorts of various random shit, some of it EXTREMELY rusty. last year I did a lot of sanding and grinding to remove rust, but I hate that shit, and have been wanting to try my hand at reverse electrolosis . First of all, this is a stupid easy process and its dirt cheap. you can buy everything you need to do it for under $30 bucks, and that includes the battery charger, just snag a old used one from a garage sale or pawn shop.
You need.... 1. a plastic container. 2. washing soda, available on the laundry detergent isle at Walmart for about $2.00 3. a few feet of copper wire 4. 4 pieces of steel rod / rebar 5. some steel wire. 6. a battery charger. note, you need to get a older battery charger, the newer ones with processors, sensors etc wont work. you need a cheap old school one that just sends out a charge and wont stop until you turn it off. all the never ones will auto shutoff trying to do this. I wont get into how to hook this up, its super simple and youtube is full of how to videos. however, the positive goes into the metal rods, and negative goes into the steel wire holding your rusty part. heres my cheap creation I made to see if it would work. ( planning to build a bigger one in a big plastic tub and doing a lot of this shit in the near future ) Attached File I have about a dozen super rusty horse shoes I wanted to clean up to make a throwing horseshoe set up that was largely tetnus free, and I didn't want to have to sand this crap. before and after pics. all I did was put the horse shoes in the solution, turn it on for a few hours, then remove them and scrub them with a nylon brush and wash them off. super, easy. also this is nice because it removes all the rust even in places you cant get to easily, holes, bolt holes, blind spots etc. you can even use a metal basket and fill it with small parts and do a lot of stuff at once. its a super work saver and it does a amazing job. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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As a bonus you get a pseudo-phosphate conversion surface that is somewhat corrosion resistant, for a little while anyway. I use a phosphoric acid solution to descale HRS, it will also remove surface rust. No current required with that solution, it would probably work faster if I wired it up though.
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Im going to get a big plastic tub today as well as look for a old beater charger that will work well for this.
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I saw on some auto board where a guy built a huge tank and used a welder for the power supply and derusted a a whole frame.
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I saw on some auto board where a guy built a huge tank and used a welder for the power supply and derusted a a whole frame. View Quote |
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id rather run at 2 amps maybe 10 tops. View Quote |
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Old computer power supply should do that no problem. Even have a choice of 12V and 5V. For 2A@12V you could find an old wall wart for a printer, modem, etc form the thrift store for next to nothing? Or a 12V DC "desktop" power supply all the HAM and CB guys use? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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id rather run at 2 amps maybe 10 tops. |
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If you want to get fancy with a PC Power Supply:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Power-supply/ |
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I just finished building my rust removal tank, I bought a tub from Walmart, and used scrap metal I had laying around, even still It turned out pretty well I think.
My main goals here was to have a way to clean a lot of small stuff / a lot of stuff at once, and to have it secure, so my stupid assed cat wont fall into it. I just started testing it, I think it will work ok like this, but I might need to add some more wire connections to get better grounding for it to work. I saw some alligator clips at Walmart the other day, figure I could make up a bunch of short wires with gator clips on each end for quick easy connections. I think its going to work as it is though. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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I picked up a battery charger that I thought would work last week, as its a older model, but apparently not old enough. it works on jump start @ 50 amps, and iv used it like that for a few hours, but im trying to find a older one. id rather run at 2 amps maybe 10 tops. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I saw on some auto board where a guy built a huge tank and used a welder for the power supply and derusted a a whole frame. |
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Nice setup, I used under bed storage containers from walmart so you could see through the plastic and they are long but not too deep. I also used copper pipe for my cross bars later and I had an old 200 milliamp charger. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58658/IMG_0285_JPG-918822.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58658/IMG_0286_JPG-918823.jpg View Quote Does the copper wire cause issues in the solution ? I thought you had to use steel wire in the solution. |
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I have an old A/C Delco garage one on wheels that goes from 2 amps to several hundred amps for starting, would something like that work. It uses a big rheostat I think. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I saw on some auto board where a guy built a huge tank and used a welder for the power supply and derusted a a whole frame. |
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Well 200 amps would pull rust fast and cause embrittlement in the what you are de-rusting, I keep mine in the milliamp range to keep from having the embrittlement happen. You can see the bubbles in mine and it worked well. Those barrels had a slight surface rust and sand blasting would have taken for ever. This was a lot faster and it was some what set it and for get it. I don't think the copper caused any issues. I used clips I got at the dollar store or someplace. I did file a small bit so the clips where engaging bare metal.
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Keep in mind your Iron displace metal has to be significantly more in volume then what you are trying to de-rust, notice the large iron plates in my solution.
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Keep in mind your Iron displace metal has to be significantly more in volume then what you are trying to de-rust, notice the large iron plates in my solution. View Quote |
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Im going to get a big plastic tub today as well as look for a old beater charger that will work well for this. View Quote The reverse electrolysis took off most of the jappaning and all of the rust. I ended up grit blasting to clean up the remaining jappaning paint. I used a piece of angle iron for the anode, and borax for the electrolyte, with an old battery charger. It does eat up the alligator terminals. |
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If you want even easier, just toss it in a bucket of evaporust and walk away.
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Wont the anodes get rusty / unusable eventually, due to rust buildup ? Figured I could reverse the process onto scrap steel to keep my welded frame / permanent setup running long term. I really like my setup, and hate to have to scrap it. Thinking of welding thick expanded metal between the rebar on mine for extra mass / surface area.
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Most of the time, I just use a cup or bucket full of vinegar, takes rust off
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I keep meaning to make one, but use a wire brush more than anything. Buddy of mine built one big enough to do Dana 60's, he swears by them.
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i scored at the scrap yard today. paid $50 bucks for everything pictured. not pictured are two big files, another big chisel, and two small galvanized buckets i got the woman for planting flowers in.
craftsman atv lift. Attached File two vices for my work bench. ( this brings my total to 5 now. ) Attached File 70lbs of welding rods. i tossed them in the oven for a little bit and they are GTG. i refilled my empty 10lb hobart rod boxes, and sealed the two metal containers with plastic. Attached File big set of cable cutters Attached File set of big chisels Attached File cast iron bench parts Attached File toolbox with various tools. be great addition to my barn toolbox. Attached File a trailer axle. planning to build a hunting trailer with this. Attached File stainless bolt tray Attached File |
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Nice score, especially on the vises, axle, and cable cutters.
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Nice setup, I used under bed storage containers from walmart so you could see through the plastic and they are long but not too deep. I also used copper pipe for my cross bars later and I had an old 200 milliamp charger. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58658/IMG_0285_JPG-918822.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58658/IMG_0286_JPG-918823.jpg View Quote i am considering getting " clamps" to attach to each object for a better connection than im getting currently just by wrapping wire around them. |
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I rebuilt my rust removal set up today. i took the rebar frame out and welded expanded metal across the bottom, and on all of the sides. that increased the surface area a HUGE amount. i also added long copper wires to the set up to wrap tightly around each metal item, i noticed a HUGE improvement in performance immediately. its really kicking ass now, im super impressed with it.
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Laser Gun - Rust Removal |
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iv been playing around with vinegar lately. it seems to work as well as anything. plus you dont have to dick with electricity, etc. i reccommend it.
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iv been playing around with vinegar lately. it seems to work as well as anything. plus you dont have to dick with electricity, etc. i reccommend it. View Quote YMMV, IANAL, ETC |
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iv been playing around with vinegar lately. it seems to work as well as anything. plus you dont have to dick with electricity, etc. i reccommend it. View Quote Even comes in a gel now to wipe on big parts, haven't tried that yet though. Looks like snot. |
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I picked up a battery charger that I thought would work last week, as its a older model, but apparently not old enough. it works on jump start @ 50 amps, and iv used it like that for a few hours, but im trying to find a older one. id rather run at 2 amps maybe 10 tops. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I saw on some auto board where a guy built a huge tank and used a welder for the power supply and derusted a a whole frame. A computer power supply from an old p.c. is also a cheap alternative. They deliver 12 volts and 5 volts https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)#Power_rating Every geek friend probably has a few old desktop computers laying around. Also, laptop power supplies work. I use an old Dell laptop power supply to run a charger for my collection of lithium batteries. It's rated at 90 watts. Only downside is the output is 19 volts and my charger refuses to run with an input over 18 volts. I had to put a DC to DC converter to knock the input voltage down to 12 volts. |
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ETA: D'oh! I didn't read far enough in this thread to see that p.c. power supply had been suggested. A computer power supply from an old p.c. is also a cheap alternative. They deliver 12 volts and 5 volts https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)#Power_rating Every geek friend probably has a few old desktop computers laying around. Also, laptop power supplies work. I use an old Dell laptop power supply to run a charger for my collection of lithium batteries. It's rated at 90 watts. Only downside is the output is 19 volts and my charger refuses to run with an input over 18 volts. I had to put a DC to DC converter to knock the input voltage down to 12 volts. View Quote |
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Electrolysis is great BUT, do it outside or with positive ventilation to avoid breathing poisonous fumes.
ESPECIALLY when derusting chrome or stainless metals. Wear gloves and in the case of certain metals, take care where you dispose of your waste water. Stainless anodes will produce extremely toxic chromium 6. Be safe and do your research. |
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Haha! The thread about the Panzerschreck, the WWII German anti-tank 2nd generation bazooka https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Panzerschreck-rockets-/5-2264377/
led to a youtube video of a couple of collectors cleaning up an old battlefield find using, you guessed it, electrolysis! About two minutes in, they started bubbling away at this rusted hulk that was hardly even recognizable and ended up with a freshly painted and functioning anti-tank weapon. Watch This Lethal WWII Panzerschreck Go Bang! | Combat Dealers |
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Electrolysis is great BUT, do it outside or with positive ventilation to avoid breathing poisonous fumes. ESPECIALLY when derusting chrome or stainless metals. Wear gloves and in the case of certain metals, take care where you dispose of your waste water. Stainless anodes will produce extremely toxic chromium 6. Be safe and do your research. View Quote Am I thinking that DC current will also likely be putting out some Hydrogen and Oxygen? Used to use a CB radio power supply to do that, and collected the gas. Makes the water jump out of the container violently when a spark lights it off oh, I do miss the days of youth and ignorance More recently used electrolosis to remove a lot of crud from the bore of a mutt pedigreed Mosin rifle. It still shoots mediocre, but I feel better! |
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