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Posted: 9/8/2018 6:34:32 PM EDT
Well, the deal was too good to pass up and the only thing I didn't like was the Floyd...cheapest hardtail version of the same model can't be found for at least $450 more than I paid so I grabbed some poplar stock from the old HD. Glued two 0.75" thick pieces together and used a compound mitre saw to trim them down. My saw doesn't safely trim very small pieces so I cut pieces of varying thickness for the rear side of the trem and just matched up two that fit. These were also glued together. I screwed the spring anchor down a few extra turns so that it presses against the front block. Both the front and rear blocks we're affixed to the body with a very small bead of glue which could be cut with a utility knife should one want to use the trem again... Not too bad for a redneck.
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While I don't agree with what you did, you did a good job on it and bonus points for not making it permanent.
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That'll work.
I replaced the springs with pieces of stiff wire (coat hanger) in a Squire Affinity I had. Worked great, no trem movement, but easy to pop out and replace with original springs if I wanted too. |
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I put in a brass plate for dive only, under the springs. Then crank the springs tension
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While I don't agree with what you did, you did a good job on it and bonus points for not making it permanent. View Quote |
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I've blocked up a few floyd Rose tremelos in my day. Doesn't effect the sound at all.....and it sure does stay in tune better. Unless you are constantly doing evh dive bomb type stuff (who does that anyways??), I think the Floyd rose trems are more trouble than they are worth.
Good job OP! |
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I've blocked up a few floyd Rose tremelos in my day. Doesn't effect the sound at all.....and it sure does stay in tune better. Unless you are constantly doing evh dive bomb type stuff (who does that anyways??), I think the Floyd rose trems are more trouble than they are worth. Good job OP! View Quote |
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You did a good job. But from a past experience of mine, that block of wood will expand and contract with the seasons. It may not be enough to notice, or it will, only time will tell.
If it does expand and contract too much, these work well. https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Floyd_Rose_Tremolos/Floyd_Rose_Tremolo_Stop_Lock.html And congrats on the new guitar! What is it? |
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It would be great if someone developed an enhanced Floyd Rose that could be decked or floated on-the-fly*. IIRC, the FRX does have a thumbscrew to do just that, but it's a different animal.
*Not in the spring cavity like a Tremol-No, Göldo Back box, or modified closet door bolt latch. |
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You could have just put in five heavy springs and called it a day. That way the trem wouldn't move unless you really, REALLY wanted it to.
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You did a good job. But from a past experience of mine, that block of wood will expand and contract with the seasons. It may not be enough to notice, or it will, only time will tell. If it does expand and contract too much, these work well. https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Floyd_Rose_Tremolos/Floyd_Rose_Tremolo_Stop_Lock.html And congrats on the new guitar! What is it? View Quote I used Poplar and glued two pieces together to reduce the expansion. We're in 80-90% humidity most of the time and I placed the blocks outside for 24 hours after gluing them together. If the front blocks expands, then the rear will also, offsetting the effect. Attached File Attached File |
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I love my D-tuna. I really need to break out that guitar again. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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That's what I had to do for my EVH with the D-tuna. -60s style or shaved neck -Edges at neck joint & cutaway taken down for comfortable higher fret access -Sustainiac system -Floyd Rose FRX with D-tuna -9-46 D'Addarios. |
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I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered building the following crime against Les Pauldom: -60s style or shaved neck -Edges at neck joint & cutaway taken down for comfortable higher fret access -Sustainiac system -Floyd Rose FRX with D-tuna -9-46 D'Addarios. Have View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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That's what I had to do for my EVH with the D-tuna. -60s style or shaved neck -Edges at neck joint & cutaway taken down for comfortable higher fret access -Sustainiac system -Floyd Rose FRX with D-tuna -9-46 D'Addarios. Have |
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Quoted: Does a Kahler have the ability to float or deck with the turn of a thumbscrew? View Quote Attached File |
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Not really a floating type system... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300247/uxxqopyjwvjlaxjujlfb-666602.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Does a Kahler have the ability to float or deck with the turn of a thumbscrew? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300247/uxxqopyjwvjlaxjujlfb-666602.JPG |
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Quoted: [smacks face] Oh yeah, you're right. That guitar is , by the way. Love those plain top LPs. View Quote Attached File |
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Same one from my pawn shop score thread... 2012 Schecter C-1 Hellraiser Extreme FR M. EMG 81/89R... $215. I used Poplar and glued two pieces together to reduce the expansion. We're in 80-90% humidity most of the time and I placed the blocks outside for 24 hours after gluing them together. If the front blocks expands, then the rear will also, offsetting the effect. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300247/IMG_20180905_201108619-666355.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300247/IMG_20180830_193531971_LL-666361.JPG View Quote |
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Quoted: Ah, ok. And I didn't realize that two blocks would counteract each other like that. Interesting. View Quote |
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I blocked the trem on a Mexican Strat I bought the same way. It worked out well. I used rock Maple for the blocks.
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I blocked the trem on a Mexican Strat I bought the same way. It worked out well. I used rock Maple for the blocks. View Quote |
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I need to look into this. I have a Flying V that hasn't been out the case in a dozen years because of that damn Floyd.
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I need to look into this. I have a Flying V that hasn't been out the case in a dozen years because of that damn Floyd. View Quote |
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The ironic thing is, the tuning stability on a properly set up Floyd that's in good repair is better than a fixed bridge.
And yes, I own several examples of both, along with some non-locking trems. |
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The ironic thing is, the tuning stability on a properly set up Floyd that's in good repair is better than a fixed bridge. And yes, I own several examples of both, along with some non-locking trems. View Quote ETA:. I had to re-read... I would agree with "almost as well as a fixed bridge" but not better. Reason I blocked it-won't hold while I rest my palm on it lol. |
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The ironic thing is, the tuning stability on a properly set up Floyd that's in good repair is better than a fixed bridge. And yes, I own several examples of both, along with some non-locking trems. View Quote There are two types of guitarists. Those that can set up their Floyd Rrose equipped guitars and those that can't. Any one of my Jacksons (even with the licensed Floyd Rose bridges) will stay in tune for a whole set (an hour of not stop speed metal). Not a single one of my Gibsons can do 4 of the same songs of set without needing adjustment. |
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I never had any issue with the Floyd other than I can't rest my hand on the bridge like I can every other guitar I own.
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The ironic thing is, the tuning stability on a properly set up Floyd that's in good repair is better than a fixed bridge. And yes, I own several examples of both, along with some non-locking trems. View Quote That being said, obviously much easier on static bridges. |
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I don't have the palm problem that some have. One of the things I learned early on is that you don't need to grind your hand into the bridge when palm muting. It doesn't take much pressure, and if you need heavier muting, just move your hand closer to the pickup.
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I usually just take a few coins and wedge them in then crank the tension down tight. Then leave the trem bar in the case. Quick and easy to reverse.
I love the look of a floyd style bridge. Most fixed bridges just look bare to me. Kind of wish someone would make a floyd looking fixed bridge complete with the fine tuners. |
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I usually just take a few coins and wedge them in then crank the tension down tight. Then leave the trem bar in the case. Quick and easy to reverse. I love the look of a floyd style bridge. Most fixed bridges just look bare to me. Kind of wish someone would make a floyd looking fixed bridge complete with the fine tuners. View Quote |
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I usually just take a few coins and wedge them in then crank the tension down tight. Then leave the trem bar in the case. Quick and easy to reverse. I love the look of a floyd style bridge. Most fixed bridges just look bare to me. Kind of wish someone would make a floyd looking fixed bridge complete with the fine tuners. View Quote Attached File Fixed Floyd Rose-ish Attached File |
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Actual fixed Floyd Rose https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58021/2803433809_gtr_frt_001_rr-676446.JPG Fixed Floyd Rose-ish https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58021/2914224576_gtr_frt_001_rr-676440.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I usually just take a few coins and wedge them in then crank the tension down tight. Then leave the trem bar in the case. Quick and easy to reverse. I love the look of a floyd style bridge. Most fixed bridges just look bare to me. Kind of wish someone would make a floyd looking fixed bridge complete with the fine tuners. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58021/2803433809_gtr_frt_001_rr-676446.JPG Fixed Floyd Rose-ish https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58021/2914224576_gtr_frt_001_rr-676440.JPG |
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His older Ibanez signature guitars also had fixed bridges with fine-tuners, but they were based on the Lo Pro Edge or Edge III instead of a Floyd.
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You could have just put in five heavy springs and called it a day. That way the trem wouldn't move unless you really, REALLY wanted it to. |
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Quoted: His older Ibanez signature guitars also had fixed bridges with fine-tuners, but they were based on the Lo Pro Edge or Edge III instead of a Floyd. I run 13-56s, so my RG470 is blocked and has all 5 springs View Quote |
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The ironic thing is, the tuning stability on a properly set up Floyd that's in good repair is better than a fixed bridge. View Quote The thing about a FR that I don't enjoy is losing string tension on aggressive bends....sounds like ass, I hate having to compensate for it, and alternative tunings/drop tunings are something I do quite a bit, also a big PITA. That said, I don't really have tuning problems with anything I've owned. If I do, it's usually an easy/cheap fix. |
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That's what I had to do for my EVH with the D-tuna. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I put in a brass plate for dive only, under the springs. Then crank the springs tension @soopagloo @4banger |
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You did a good job. But from a past experience of mine, that block of wood will expand and contract with the seasons. It may not be enough to notice, or it will, only time will tell. If it does expand and contract too much, these work well. https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Floyd_Rose_Tremolos/Floyd_Rose_Tremolo_Stop_Lock.html And congrats on the new guitar! What is it? View Quote That and the fact that you have to put it in the middle of the trem and you have to move the middle spring to one side or the other. |
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Quoted: Pics? I use the D Tuna as well on some guitars, I don't care for the trem blockers and am interested in your set up. @soopagloo @4banger View Quote Attached File |
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I've been looking at building a Warmoth super-strat...
I'd like the Floyd baseplate to sit flat on the body... Do I need an angled body pocket or the 720 pocket mod? |
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I've been looking at building a Warmoth super-strat... I'd like the Floyd baseplate to sit flat on the body... Do I need an angled body pocket or the 720 pocket mod? View Quote Reading Warmoth's specs again you are only gaining 1/10" of an inch but it's the only option they have which would evenly lower the action, which still might not let you lower the plate low enough to sit flush. I really don't think you would need it at all if you intended just to have the bottom of the plate sit level with the top of the body. Decked/flat: Attached File Flush/flat: Attached File |
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@RECONSIX Brass trem stopper from futone.com https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/371433/IMG-3415-701314.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Pics? I use the D Tuna as well on some guitars, I don't care for the trem blockers and am interested in your set up. @soopagloo @4banger https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/371433/IMG-3415-701314.JPG I did recently pick one of these up to try out, supposed to be able to pull up as well as dive and keep in tune when D Tuna is used, they're made by Kahler, it's a real PITA to set it up, it's a fine balance between the trem springs and the stabilizer spring: The only reason I have these on my working guitars is for drop tuning, I use EVH D Tuna on my Floyd equipped guitars. @soopagloo |
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By flat on the body I'm assuming you mean flush with the body? Flat on the body would mean decked or a non-routed trem like a standard strat to most people. Assuming you mean flush with the body, the 720 mod would be your best bet as an angled neck pocket would give you the opposite of what you seek. Angled neck pockets are for bridge option that sit higher than standard and you are mounting at or below standard bridge height if I understand you correctly. Reading Warmoth's specs again you are only gaining 1/10" of an inch but it's the only option they have which would evenly lower the action, which still might not let you lower the plate low enough to sit flush. I really don't think you would need it at all if you intended just to have the bottom of the plate sit level with the top of the body. Decked/flat: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300247/IMG_20180908_170516204-665590_JPG-704738.JPG Flush/flat: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300247/jksn_highlight_2803433809_BRIDGE_jpg-704736.JPG View Quote |
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