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Posted: 7/20/2013 5:33:09 AM EDT
[#1]
There should be fittings in the shower/mixing valve that unscrew, that allow you to solder the joint, then screw it back in so the heat doesn't damage the valve itself.
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Posted: 7/20/2013 5:41:36 AM EDT
[#2]
If that shower valve has any washers/plastics in it, you don't want it too hot.
Did you prep both pieces of copper with the plumbing sandpaper and use flux? You should be heating the outside of the fitting to be soldered just enough to draw the solder into the joint. You may have to use a wet rag around the valve body as a heat sink to keep it from overheating. Disclaimer: I'm a master electrician and a wannabe plumber, but I do all my own plumbing 
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Posted: 7/20/2013 5:42:59 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There should be fittings in the shower/mixing valve that unscrew, that allow you to solder the joint, then screw it back in so the heat doesn't damage the valve itself. What he said
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Posted: 7/20/2013 5:52:15 AM EDT
[#4]
what flux did you use? did you pull the body apart so you did not ruin the plastic and rubber fittings?
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Posted: 7/20/2013 5:54:20 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There should be fittings in the shower/mixing valve that unscrew, that allow you to solder the joint, then screw it back in so the heat doesn't damage the valve itself. Quote HistoryQuoted:
There should be fittings in the shower/mixing valve that unscrew, that allow you to solder the joint, then screw it back in so the heat doesn't damage the valve itself. Quoted:
If that shower valve has any washers/plastics in it, you don't want it too hot. Did you prep both pieces of copper with the plumbing sandpaper and use flux? You should be heating the outside of the fitting to be soldered just enough to draw the solder into the joint. You may have to use a wet rag around the valve body as a heat sink to keep it from overheating. Disclaimer: I'm a master electrician and a wannabe plumber, but I do all my own plumbing Natchurly, nothin' in the installation instructions about that, so it may already be too late. 
Will disassemble what I can and see if I've already toasted it. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 5:58:46 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Natchurly, nothin' in the installation instructions about that, so it may already be too late.
Will disassemble what I can and see if I've already toasted it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
There should be fittings in the shower/mixing valve that unscrew, that allow you to solder the joint, then screw it back in so the heat doesn't damage the valve itself. Quoted:
If that shower valve has any washers/plastics in it, you don't want it too hot. Did you prep both pieces of copper with the plumbing sandpaper and use flux? You should be heating the outside of the fitting to be soldered just enough to draw the solder into the joint. You may have to use a wet rag around the valve body as a heat sink to keep it from overheating. Disclaimer: I'm a master electrician and a wannabe plumber, but I do all my own plumbing Natchurly, nothin' in the installation instructions about that, so it may already be too late.
Will disassemble what I can and see if I've already toasted it. it's toast. try again with a new fitting and mapp gas. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 6:07:52 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it's toast. try again with a new fitting and mapp gas. I pulled it apart and it looks OK; the main valve body kind of hangs in the center of the body suspended by the brass threads towards the front, so it looks like it'd have to get pretty hot to damage the parts inside. Rubber washers and anything else I can see look OK. Probably worth trying, anyway (?) Thanks for all the help so far! Knew I should have checked in here first! 
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Posted: 7/20/2013 6:33:28 AM EDT
[#8]
So assuming the valve is still OK, is this just beyond the reach of a regular propane torch? I guess I could run out and pick up a MAPP torch, but if I'm going to that I may as well just get a new valve with threaded fittings. I hate to give up that easy...
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Posted: 7/20/2013 7:24:13 AM EDT
[#9]
Heat the valve body around the copper pipe and the pipe at the same time, spend a little more time on the valve body than the pipe, propane should work, it will just take a little longer. The new mapp gas is not as hot as the old. Your propane torch may be able to handle mapp pro (or whatever they call the new crap.
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Posted: 7/21/2013 2:05:14 AM EDT
[#10]
I ended up running in and picking up a MAPP torch. Doesn't take much justification for me to add a new tool to the stash.
Worked much better; nice solid joints now. Just remains to be seen whether I fried the valve with the first go-round. I'll be installing it today, so I'll know soon enough. Thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions. |
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Posted: 7/21/2013 2:05:35 AM EDT
[#11]
(Satellite-induced double-tap)
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Posted: 7/25/2013 1:39:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ended up running in and picking up a MAPP torch. Doesn't take much justification for me to add a new tool to the stash.
Worked much better; nice solid joints now. Just remains to be seen whether I fried the valve with the first go-round. I'll be installing it today, so I'll know soon enough. Thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions. If you did fry it and don't already have one, consider a temperature balancing valve. They are priceless. |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 3:29:11 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you did fry it and don't already have one, consider a temperature balancing valve. They are priceless. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I ended up running in and picking up a MAPP torch. Doesn't take much justification for me to add a new tool to the stash.
Worked much better; nice solid joints now. Just remains to be seen whether I fried the valve with the first go-round. I'll be installing it today, so I'll know soon enough. Thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions. If you did fry it and don't already have one, consider a temperature balancing valve. They are priceless. Didn't fry it... works fine, and no leaks!
I don't think this one is temperature-balancing, but it does say it's "pressure balancing". Different things, I 'spect. Here's the one I was working with: Symmons Temptrol Single-Handle Tub and Shower Faucet Went with this one based on price + reviews. |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 5:14:45 PM EDT
[#14]
I just did my first one this past week and took the guts out because I knew how hot I would have to get the valve. Turn the propane torch to the max and make sure everything is clean and fluxed. Heat and go. Propane will do the job.
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Posted: 7/26/2013 11:31:27 AM EDT
[#15]
Propane will do the job. Depends on how large the torch is. |
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Posted: 7/26/2013 11:59:31 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Depends on how large the torch is. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Propane will do the job. Depends on how large the torch is. And the mass of the valve. I kept it on it for a good 15-20 minutes (after taking the guts out), and it never did get hot enough to draw in the solder. The MAPP torch had it hot enough in maybe 15 seconds. My propane torch is just one of the ubiquitous Bernz-O-Matic homeowner jobbies. Adding the MAPP torch to the tool bin was a good move. |
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