Check out what I saw when I crawled under my 75 CJ5...



The steel plate above the frame rust is the bottom of the roll-bar mounting plate.  Something ELSE to fix...

The spots are directly above the rear axle.  The frame was POR 15ed in 1985.  The Jeep has been stored in a garage the whole time.  I finished the project in 2004, and have had her on the road for a few months.

I am a little upset about the "quality" of the POR 15 and its ability to stay adhered to the surface.  I cannot attest to the prepwork done on the frame beforehand, but I do recall it being sandblasted BEFOR E application.

I have a 1 car garage and minimal tools  (Powerful drill I can mount a wire wheel to.  NO air tools...)

HOW WOULD YOU FIX THIS ISSUE BEFORE IT BECOMES A REAL PROBLEM?

LOL wild country tires.....I freakin love those things, can you still buy em?


Wire brush, krylon touch and drive.

Seriously, what you picture is NOTHING. Were talkin a 1.1 out of 10 on the jeep cancer scale especally for a jeep kept indoors when not in use.



BTW is your tub fiberglass?

You said Jeep, right? I don't see any rust. Are you sure?

Ospho and rustoleum rust primer. Good e nuff.

Cover rust in mud then forget about it.

Corrosion X

Shoot, in IL that's not rust, that's show room ready.

Give er a little wire brushing and a good coat of epoxy, and maybe shoot some undercoating on it if you're real worried.

double tap

if you cant poke through it with a screwdriver then you don't have to worry about it yet. just clean it up and spray some more paint or por15 on it.

Its just fine....


Why is your cage not tied into the frame?

Man, that is nothing!!!    If that Jeep was up here, it would be beach sand by now.  Really.

vmax84

Our aircraft mechanics use this stuff.  They seem to really like it.

vmax84

Tires were bought NEW in 86.  Theyve been sitting on the Jeep since then.  (NOTHING GETS BY ARFCOM picture detectives!)

Yes, it is a 4WD fiberglass tub.

Because I was not certain what height I wanted the body off of the frame.  Then, in my mind, other tasks too precedence over the rollbar tie-ins.  

If you plan on driving the thing AT ALL I strongly urge you to push tying in your roll bar up to priority No1

Along the lines of Corrosion-X, there are a number of very good corrosion inhibiting compounds (CIC). A very simple and cheap one is Black Bear Par-Al-Ketone. It is a very thick oily liquid that dries to a waxy/thick non tacky coating. It works wonders in preventing corrosion on gun parts stored for 50 years. It will work just as well under a car. It's almost thin enough to creep into joints a bit too, if you thin it with MEK or laquer thinnner, it will creep just fine.

Corrosion-X heavy duty is a non hardening formula that works well too. Boeshield is fairly good and dries to a clear non hardening tacky coating. LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating. LPS Procyon dries to a very hard waxy coating and is very tough (for an oil based CIC)

The very best one is a product called AV-30. It's like Par-Al-Ketone, but tougher and longer lasting. It's not a paint and can't be painted. And it has an incredible ability to creep into the tightest areas. It's about 100 bucks a quart. Used on all sorts of aircraft.

I think you are discovering that many of the off the shelf products just don't work.

Good luck.

My truck is less than 2 years old with 13,000 miles and has more rust than that.


God damn the rust belt!!!!!!

wire brush or wheel

and

rustoleum rust reformer

I'd be more worried about the tape holding it together!  

That is nothing to worry about.  My first CJ5's rear section of the frame rotted away.  I found that out the hard way while going down some trails.