Quoted: I ran my codereader/diagnostic tool doodad, the only thing it is reading is misfire in #2
|
I can help you find the cause. Luckily I know these cars very well, we have a good dozen that I take care of at the shop, all types of setups from stock to insane!
What kind of scantool are you using? just curious..
Well don't worry about the scan tool, it already did it's job and the rest is up to you right now. Just follow the diagnostic below and you should be able to pinpoint the cause....
First, if #2 cylinder is misfiring at a high rate(as seen on a scan tool under misfire counts), or not firing at all, your car will run like sh*t. It would take a VERY serious problem to completely burn up a plug -in a modern car- in such a short time. You may however see fouled plugs due to flooding, oiling etc.
second, The #2 misfire code is probably due to a bad plug wire. A bad Knock Sensor would set a DTC (trouble code) of it's own. You may need to go through some typical Subaru diagnostics on the fuel injectors and PCM. Let me know if you need help with this, but before we get into that do the following:
Because you only have a misfire in one cylinder, you need to check the following first;
Spark plug Pull the plug and re-check the gap. Eyeball it well, lok for anything unusual. Due to the design of the boxer engine it is not uncommon for a plug to get fouled with oil (or gap bridged from contact)on the way into the head. Clean, Gap to 1.0-1.1mm(.039-.043 in) and go to next step.
Spark plug wire Check the wire for a torn boot, pushed in terminal, or other signs of damage. Ohm it out with a multimeter, oddly enough the Subaru wires all have different specs. #2 wire should be between 6,200-14,500 ohms.
You should have found your problem by now, but if not you need to check the last two items;
Since you have the plug out you should probably check compression, if you have a compression guage handy check it now, if not, just replace the plug and wire if they were good and go to the next step; nomally you won't have to go this far anyway, so no sweat if you can't check it now. Compression should be 160-180 PSI, unplug the connector at the DIS coils on top of motor and #2 injector connector before cranking. Open throttle fully and crank with strong battery.
Fuel Injector There are a number of very complicated tests for this, but to make it simple just do the following;
Replace the plug and wire and start the motor. **Pull the electrical connector off the #2 terminal and see if the motor stays the same or starts to run a little rougher.
**This is best done with a partner(ONLY if it's an automatic trans), have your partner set the parking brake and hold the regular brake down and put vehicle in drive while you unplug the electrical terminal at the #2 injector.If it runs rougher AFTER disconnectig the terminal, your injector is working fine, replace terminal and CHECK COMPRESSION on #2 cylinder; if it runs the same, you have to do some more tests because your injector is not firing. Unfortunately I can't go into it any further due to the time, I have to get up at 5:30am every day for work.
Good luck, and let us know what you find.