So I'm replacing pads and rotors (disks) on my car, and I can't the freaking rotor off to save my life.  Everything else came off fine, but the rotor is rusted to the hub like a MF'er.  I've tried lubing the hell out of it with Liquid Wrench and WD-40 but it doesn't seem to have helped.  I pounded on it with a big hammer, and even a little bit with a sledge hammer but that sucker is STUCK.  Any ideas on how to get it off (perferable not involving a .50 cal or explosives although that would be fun).  

more work with the BFH will get it

It would help if you mentioned if it was the front or rear rotor, which model car, what type of drive (FWD/RWD), what year car, etc...

Sometimes you need to remove the wheel bearing in order to remove the rotor.
Sometimes, factory installed rotors are riveted to the hub assembly (front rotors on 98-up Ford Panthers) or the rear e-brake shoes dug into the inner hub (rear rotors on 92-up Ford Panthers).

Front wheel drive will generally have a separate axle/hub assembly (most RWD also have this) for the front rotors. Generally speaking they may be galled to the axle/hub assembly.

Use one of the gear pullers and tighten it down. Use a BFH and pound at the rotor or puller as you rotate it and tighten the puller.

Interference fits, coupled with galling and corrosion contribute to this effect. Next time, use a layer of anti-sieze on the face of the hub assembly or wherever the rotor mates with the hub surface to prevent this from happening in the future.

Is it a Toyota 4x4?  This vehicle, and others have a tapered pressure bushing around each lug nut that needs to be removed first, using a pin punch.

There's a specific tool for this, I think its called a disk puller, looks like a 3/4-armed claw with a spike in the middle.  The arms grab the bigger object and then the spike is extended to pull the big object off the little object.

Kharn

Blue Wrench

We need to know the type of vehicle.  Front or rear?

Some vehicles rotors are pressed on...which means beating on it only makes things worse.

Get back to us, and we can help.

Erik Johnson

I've had very good luck using a rosebud tip on an oxy-acetylene torch.

Using the oxy-acetlyene allows for a very quick heat-up, so that hopefully
the heat doesn't have a lot of time to transfer to the wheelbearings.
Don't worry too much about overheating, as brakes get super-hot from
normal use anyway.  Just don't go overboard.

Heat the rotor around the lugs and the center hole until toasty hot.
Then spray with a penetrating oil.
The theory being that as it cools, it will draw the oil back in and help
loosen rust.  Plus, the expansion due to heating will help
loosen things up too.

I had a very tough one on an OLD ford escort.
Heated and heated.  Oil soaked and oil soaked.
Finally had to heat  and use a 10 pound sledge to knock it off.
(risking damage to ball joints, etc)

Keep at it, and good luck.

Dave

WTF is a Ford Panther?

It a 96 Metro, and it's the front disks that I'm replacing.  There were 2 hub retaining screws that held the rotor to the hub, but the heads of the screws rounded off since they were rusted in.  I drilled those completely out so it's basically like a normal rusted on rotor now.  I don't need to remove the wheel bearings to get this one off...

Kano Kroil spray from Kano Labs. Nothing, I say nothing works better.

Quoted: WTF is a Ford Panther?

+1
even did a a google search on that one.

Quoted: Quoted: WTF is a Ford Panther? +1 even did a a google search on that one.

WTF did you google?

www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Ford+Panther&btnG=Google+Search

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: WTF is a Ford Panther? +1 even did a a google search on that one. WTF did you google? www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Ford+Panther&btnG=Google+Search

i only can come up with a platform of other cars not a actual car.
if it is a real car called ford panther i couldn't find it.

Quoted: It a 96 Metro...

Well there's your problem.  Those were disposable cars.  When a part broke you just put the whole car on the curb for the trash man and bought a new one.  Sorry, just had to mess with you a little.  MJD

My son was having a terrible time (by hitting the hub) getting the rotors off his Merc Cougar.  He called a friend who had tim tap the rotor from behind (using a rubber mallet) - came right off.

Quoted: My son was having a terrible time (by hitting the hub) getting the rotors off his Merc Cougar.  He called a friend who had tim tap the rotor from behind (using a rubber mallet) - came right off.

Sorry, I assumed hitting it from behind was a given.

Ford Panther = Crown Vic/Mercury Marquis

Quoted: Kano Kroil spray from Kano Labs. Nothing, I say nothing works better.

+1.  But you might want to let it soak in for anywhere from 12 hours to several days.  Amazing stuff.

C4. Ooops wrong forum.

keep hitting it from the back and rotating , or the torch to heat it up first.

Try Kroil or PB blaster and keep beating on it. If that still doesn't work a torch will do the trick.

+1 on the Kroil and beating it off from the rear...LOL

anyways, thats the way to do it..hopefully youve bought new rotors, if you cut these after smackin them too hard w a hammer youre going to have big vibes when you hit the binders...

Looks like theres a good number of people handy in the garage on this forum..i feel at home :))

sometimes, theres a small hole in the rotor that is tapped out for a screw that you run into the hole to pop the rotor off, but most of the time it stripps out...

you can attempt to put a 2x4 between the rotor and the hammer, but if they are that frozen on, I would get the trusty 3 lb sledgehammer out and beat the shit out of it till it comes off, then get new rotors

also, make sure you clean em up the hub surface really good when you put the new parts on...spray em down, wipe em clean, etc....

use some white lithium grease on your guide pins for your rotors, so they actuate smoothly

alittle anti seize on the studs to keep them free

and, if i were you, get a turkey baster to suck out your old brake fluid from the resivoir....get it all out, wipe the resovior clean with a new paper towel, and refill with correct brake fluid...this will help harden your pedal back up...brake fluid retains water, so old brake fluid gets spongey..you dont have to bleed them if you do it like this, cause youre not taking it out of the lines...


I know you didnt ask for all this info, but what the hell, sometimes its nice to get alittle extra advice...when im buying my 1st rifle, I hope you guys are over helpful to me LOL...good luck to yah

Another idea is what I did getting the original rear rotors off of my Dad's 79' Lincoln Mark. Soak it real good and then have a buddy use a prybar or big ass screwdriver and pry the rotor forward while you beat on it with the hammer. Worked on the 27 year old pimp mobile. Probably will work on your Metro.

Quoted: Get a big punch that is flat on the end and give the rotor a few smacks between each wheel stud. Then tap it from behind if you can get a decent swing at it.

You sure do sound like a porno director!

Spray wd-40 around the hub.  Let it sit for 2 or 3 seconds, and get a hammer and hit the rotor between the studs.  It should come off provided you actually swing the hammer.  And make sure the heads of the screws are out of the rotors.

Quoted: Spray wd-40 around the hub.  Let it sit for 2 or 3 seconds, and get a hammer and hit the rotor between the studs.  It should come off provided you actually swing the hammer.  And make sure the heads of the screws are out of the rotors.

I believe this has been suggested already several times using much better penetrating oil than WD-40. Sometimes a rotor is rusted so good crappy WD and 3 seconds just doesn't get it off.