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Posted: 3/24/2021 9:06:16 PM EDT
[#1]
I don’t know much about the stuff after 06, but my 04 has 300k+ on it.
ETA change the oil religiously and don’t tune it, then it will last years. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 9:21:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Have you had any issues with the rest of the truck?
Is yours an automatic? |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 9:33:30 PM EDT
[#3]
I'd much rather have the 6 speed and the pre-emissions engine.
The CP3 is supposed to be a solid injection pump but the injectors can be problematic. Beats the junk VP44 injection pump problems in the 2nd gen 24valves though. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 9:44:13 PM EDT
[#4]
Out of those two the '04 with the manual, every time.
A magnificent drivetrain wrapped up in a mediocre truck. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 10:31:16 PM EDT
[#5]
 Current truck is a 16 bighorn. Have had a 10, 07, 01, and a 96. The 04 with a flatbed will be a great truck. Fix the few issues that it will have (ball joints, injectors, throw out bearing, interior) and it will rock. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 11:18:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have you had any issues with the rest of the truck? Is yours an automatic? Auto and there is no tranny from the factory to withstand that torque with towing. 6 is way better and the only issue is front end parts. Ball joints, u joints, etç. ETA put in an extra fuel filter, water separator on the frame rail to protect injectors and pump. But that is an diesel. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 11:44:29 PM EDT
[#7]
All the hot shot trucks are dually. You need to check the 6.7 to see if it’s been deleted or not and depending where you live you may not be able to get a deleted truck inspected. All the guys of the Cummins Forum say injectors last around 300k. If the 5.9 truck is really clean it may be a good deal. I have a deleted 2012 and love it. Most all the head gasket problems were from improperly tuned trucks in the first few years of the 6.7.
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Posted: 3/24/2021 11:51:57 PM EDT
[#8]
Stock trucks have torque management built into the computer. The deleted and tuned trucks are the ones that tear stuff up like the transmission because the drivers can’t control their right foot.
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Posted: 3/24/2021 11:54:43 PM EDT
[#9]
If you're ok with shifting, that 04 is hard to beat. I have a 2006 6 speed with 92K on it and it's been problem free. IIRC there was a mid year change on the 04 engine going to 600 ft/lb of torque. If you look at the data sticker on the valve cover it will show the hp and torque rating. Not a big deal really since you can put a Smarty on there and have all the power you want but still desirable. Front ball joints, U joints and CV at the transfer case end of the drive shaft are some things to look at. At that mileage they've either been replaced or need to be. For towing you're in for a giant upgrade!
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Posted: 3/25/2021 2:18:56 AM EDT
[#10]
How much around town/stop & go driving do you do?
I've driven a manual trans CTD since '96 - a '96 NV4500 5spd & a '00 NV5600 6spd - and both trucks blow in town/stop&go driving. I'm seriously considering converting my '00 to 6spd automatic when 5th gear in my NV5600 finally shits the bed. Good friend of mine tows a 40ft 5th wheel toy hauler with his '07.5 Ram 3500 MegaCab with the 6spd automatic (68RFE I think) - the stock OE trans had to be rebuilt at ~250K miles, he upgraded to a "towing" version and it's been running strong. I've owned/driven a manual transmission since I got my license 35 years ago - it's not like the CTDs are my only frame of reference. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 2:39:03 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: https://i.imgur.com/JBAbJme.jpg Current truck is a 16 bighorn. Have had a 10, 07, 01, and a 96. The 04 with a flatbed will be a great truck. Fix the few issues that it will have (ball joints, injectors, throw out bearing, interior) and it will rock. The 04 still has the bed on it. The '10 has the flat bed. Here's a picture of the '10. It seems like a weird way to set up a truck. Something about the winch, srw, flatbed/gooseneck combination seems weird.  Attached FileQuoted: How much around town/stop & go driving do you do? I've driven a manual trans CTD since '96 - a '96 NV4500 5spd & a '00 NV5600 6spd - and both trucks blow in town/stop&go driving. I'm seriously considering converting my '00 to 6spd automatic when 5th gear in my NV5600 finally shits the bed. Good friend of mine tows a 40ft 5th wheel toy hauler with his '07.5 Ram 3500 MegaCab with the 6spd automatic (68RFE I think) - the stock OE trans had to be rebuilt at ~250K miles, he upgraded to a "towing" version and it's been running strong. I've owned/driven a manual transmission since I got my license 35 years ago - it's not like the CTDs are my only frame of reference. We don't do a ton of stop and go, and we've had manual transmission vehicles before. My 74 crew cab that I have currently has a manual. I have driven a cummins truck with a six speed before and it didn't seem like the clutch was horrible. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 11:27:42 AM EDT
[#12]
If you buy 4x4 that's pre 2013 you need to check the front driveshaft cardan joint. Its the CV joint at the transfer case. It has a center ball and stud on needle bearings that keeps the opposed u joints aligned. Most shops don't know there is a grease point inside the center of the joint. I has to be greased or the joint will fail at high speed and blow up the transfer case. It has happened to a lot of people. Do a search for RAM front drive shaft grease point and RAM transfer case exploded. I grease mine every oil change. The older jeeps have the same joint , its called a double cardan joint. They sometimes squeak when the center ball starts to get dry and or the needle bearing go bad. The jeep guys call it angry sparrows. If you replace it, get a quality one, not a cheep ass one.
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Posted: 3/25/2021 1:49:28 PM EDT
[#13]
It's not much fun to grease either.
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Posted: 3/25/2021 1:58:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's not much fun to grease either. I'm familiar with dual cardan joints. Getting the grease fitting in there can be impossible if the shaft isn't clocked correctly. Thanks for the info so far! Is 170k miles since 2010 enough to be concerned about on these trucks? These things are at the upper end of what I can afford, and it'll be our only vehicle so I'd like to avoid something that's probably going to need expensive repairs soon. I hate buying vehicles. It's always a crap shoot. Lol |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 2:29:21 PM EDT
[#15]
I may be completely wrong but if expensive repairs are a concern, I would chose the truck with zero diesel emissions equipment on it. To me that's the main thing stopping me from selling my 2006 and getting a 2021. I don't want to have to jack with all the ridiculous DEF BS.
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Posted: 3/25/2021 6:35:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I may be completely wrong but if expensive repairs are a concern, I would chose the truck with zero diesel emissions equipment on it. To me that's the main thing stopping me from selling my 2006 and getting a 2021. I don't want to have to jack with all the ridiculous DEF BS. The exhaust stuff isn't a huge concern. If it has bad exhaust treatment problems, I'd probably just delete all the things. Lol I'm probably going to look at the 04. My big concern about it is my three kids fitting in the back seat. It's been a while since I've been in that body style of truck, but I remember the back seat sucking something terrible. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 6:39:59 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have driven a cummins truck with a six speed before and it didn't seem like the clutch was horrible. Clutch isn't horrible but the shifting on a NV5600 can be - the NV5600 has been the biggest issue on my '00. Mainshaft assembly and then the entire trans was replaced under warranty due to horribly notchy/grinding during shifting - to the point it wouldn't go into gear. OEM clutch lasted ~150k miles and I replaced it with a SouthBend that works great. Of course about a week after changing the clutch the syncros on 5th gear decided to stop working............. I'm driving the damn thing until it flat out won't shift into 5th under any circumstances. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 6:44:49 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: These things are at the upper end of what I can afford, and it'll be our only vehicle so I'd like to avoid something that's probably going to need expensive repairs soon. I hate buying vehicles. It's always a crap shoot. Lol Given this info I think you really, really need to ask yourself if you need a diesel or you want a diesel. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 6:49:42 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The exhaust stuff isn't a huge concern. If it has bad exhaust treatment problems, I'd probably just delete all the things. Lol I'm probably going to look at the 04. My big concern about it is my three kids fitting in the back seat. It's been a while since I've been in that body style of truck, but I remember the back seat sucking something terrible. MegaCab......................... I'm 6'4" (in real life, not just my arfcom profile) and I fit comfortably in the back seat of my friend's '07 MegaCab with two other guys my size when we're down in Baja. I despise short bed fullsize trucks and I'd seriously consider compromising on the bed length for the cab/back seat on a Mega. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 6:54:45 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Given this info I think you really, really need to ask yourself if you need a diesel or you want a diesel. I've never had a trailer before. That's one of the primary drivers of this. We're looking at doing the full time camper trailer thing for a bit, and our 2500 suburban could do the job. I had originally planned on putting a new transmission and rebuilding the transfer case(trans is starting to slip in 1st and reverse, t case output is worn, causing a driveline vibration and the chain is getting some slop) in the burb and just using that. The thing is just starting to show it's age though. It's a 2001 with going on 260,000 miles on it. An engine will probably not be too far in the future, plus the interior is wearing a lot, and in some ways, a nicer vehicle would be nice. Lol If I'm shopping for trucks, I kind of figured that getting a truck that would do all of the truck things I'd do would be best. I suppose a 2500 crew cab GM with the 8.1 could do just fine, but the fuel mileage would probably be in the single digits while towing. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 7:18:18 PM EDT
[#21]
What kind of weight are you looking at towing? I don't remember what those 'burbans are rated for but it doesn't sound like it would be mandatory for a diesel.
You can get a hell of a lot nicer, newer, and capable truck if you get a gas powered truck. Going with a newer GM with the 6.0 and 6L90 will pull much better than your 4L80E. I've got an '18 2500 crew cab pulling a 9k 32' camper. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 9:47:57 PM EDT
[#22]
We're looking at ~30' trailers that are in the 9.5k gvw range.
The burb is rated for 10.5k lbs with 1050lbs of tongue weight. I went and looked at the 04 tonight. It wasn't as clean as the pictures made it look. It had what seemed like a lot of crank case pressure and it was leaking oil pretty good, like the bellhousing and the back of the oil pan were wet enough that all of the dirt was washed off. The lot had lowered the price to $21k to try to move it because they've had it for 5 months. When I got there, they had it parked in the back of the lot because they're sending it to a shop to get checked out because of how many people have come to look at it and were concerned about the issues. |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 9:50:51 PM EDT
[#23]
If the underside of a cummins is dry it means your out of oil.
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Posted: 3/25/2021 11:37:55 PM EDT
[#24]
You can tell it the cardan joint has been greased before. It will sling grease on by the t case and the underside of the body. It there is absolutely no sign of grease there then it hasent been greased.
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Posted: 3/25/2021 11:44:49 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can tell it the cardan joint has been greased before. It will sling grease on by the t case and the underside of the body. It there is absolutely no sign of grease there then it hasent been greased. Based only on sticking my head under the truck, the front driveshaft is being adequately lubricated by engine oil. Lol |
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Posted: 3/26/2021 8:10:22 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If the underside of a cummins is dry it means your out of oil. Nice. |
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Posted: 3/26/2021 10:32:36 PM EDT
[#27]
I’m not sure what area of WA you’re searching, but I went from Seattle to Eugene over a couple week period looking for a 3500 DRW Cummins for a buddy. There’s a ton of clapped out trucks in the area. One place in Kent imports their trucks from Canada, and just spray paints everything on the chassis. There’s another decent size dealer in Portland, and their trucks were all in rough shape. Terrible rusting, leaks etc. Called Dream City or something.
My buddy wound up going over to Idaho to Dave Smith to pick one up, he thought it was a great experience with them. Check them out if you’re inclined to do a road trip. I had a 2003 3500 SRW automatic. One truck I wish I had kept. Non-emissions is great, but frankly the backseat is small on them. I traveled from NY to OR in a 07 1500 crew cab, with a wife kid and dog, and it was quite tight. Next PCS will be with another kid in the same truck, and I’m not quite sure how that will work out. Mechanical stuff is covered above by other posters that are more knowledgeable than myself on the diesels. Only thing I will add is check throughly for rust, especially above the rear wheels. The folks running fender flares don’t always run them for looks, most I’ve found run them to cover the rust that happens on dodges there(I’m one of them). Good luck! |
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Posted: 3/26/2021 10:39:49 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Only thing I will add is check throughly for rust, especially above the rear wheels. The folks running fender flares don’t always run them for looks, most I’ve found run them to cover the rust that happens on dodges there(I’m one of them). Good luck! Buddy and I have both recently bought 2nd gen 12 valves. First thing I did was remove the stainless trim around the fenders on mine, they hold wet junk behind them. My truck came out of eastern OR so luckily there was no rust. Buddy's truck came from the Aberdeen area and he found sand behind his and some cancer. There's certainly a lot of beat trucks out here that everyone wants a premium for. |
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Posted: 3/26/2021 11:35:40 PM EDT
[#29]
The cummins trucks are just expensive.
I'm still not sure if this is the way I want to go or if I'll just fix up the burb. |
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Posted: 3/28/2021 11:01:04 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've never had a trailer before. That's one of the primary drivers of this. We're looking at doing the full time camper trailer thing for a bit, and our 2500 suburban could do the job. I had originally planned on putting a new transmission and rebuilding the transfer case(trans is starting to slip in 1st and reverse, t case output is worn, causing a driveline vibration and the chain is getting some slop) in the burb and just using that. The thing is just starting to show it's age though. It's a 2001 with going on 260,000 miles on it. An engine will probably not be too far in the future, plus the interior is wearing a lot, and in some ways, a nicer vehicle would be nice. Lol If I'm shopping for trucks, I kind of figured that getting a truck that would do all of the truck things I'd do would be best. I suppose a 2500 crew cab GM with the 8.1 could do just fine, but the fuel mileage would probably be in the single digits while towing. How many people is the "we" that will be doing the full time RVing thing? I lived in my 36ft 5th wheel patio hauler for 75% of the time over a 4 year period - the 26ft of living space with a full living room slide out got to feeling cramped and it was just me in the trailer. My parents full timed for ~2 years in a 36ft 5th wheel with living room & bedroom slides (no garage) and it got "tight" at times for just two people. A lot of RV campgrounds have age limits for long term space rentals - ie nothing over 10 years old. If you are planning on full-timing and travelling don't set yourself up for having to repair your tow vehicle on the road............ |
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Posted: 3/29/2021 2:05:51 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How many people is the "we" that will be doing the full time RVing thing? I lived in my 36ft 5th wheel patio hauler for 75% of the time over a 4 year period - the 26ft of living space with a full living room slide out got to feeling cramped and it was just me in the trailer. My parents full timed for ~2 years in a 36ft 5th wheel with living room & bedroom slides (no garage) and it got "tight" at times for just two people. A lot of RV campgrounds have age limits for long term space rentals - ie nothing over 10 years old. If you are planning on full-timing and travelling don't set yourself up for having to repair your tow vehicle on the road............ 5 people  three are under 12 though. A bunch of fighting with the trailer or tow rig are what I'd like to avoid. Unfortunately, budget is a concern. Fortunately, I'm a mechanic so I can do most of what will probably need to get done. Trying to figure out what tools to bring along is another issue. I'd need another trailer to bring everything I want to feel like I'm equipped enough. Lol |
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Posted: 4/15/2021 10:01:03 PM EDT
[#32]
I'm thinking about going and looking at the 04 again. It's back on the dealerships website for $18,999.
I've been doing a bit of research since I looked at it last, so I think I have a better idea of what to look at. I'll probably go on my way home from work so I'll be in work clothes so i can crawl under the truck better this time, plus I'll have fancy inspection tools like a mirror and flashlight. Lol I have heard that when the valve cover starts leaking on the cummins engines, it leaks bad and looks horrible. |
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Posted: 4/15/2021 10:36:06 PM EDT
[#33]
An almost 20 year old truck, that's also a diesel, as your only vehicle, that maxed out what you can afford, hauling you family across country pulling a camper.....sounds like a horrible idea.
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Posted: 4/16/2021 1:30:29 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: An almost 20 year old truck, that's also a diesel, as your only vehicle, that maxed out what you can afford, hauling you family across country pulling a camper.....sounds like a horrible idea. The whole thing sounds like a horrible idea. Who'd give up a pretty decent job, a house with a ton of equity in a nice little town and a pretty stable situation to be homeless for a few months? Our current dd is a 2001 that has 259,000 miles on it. We just drove it to the coast and back earlier this week. The newer vehicle that has half of the miles on a drivetrain that has a reputation for being pretty bulletproof doesn't sound so bad(if it's in good shape). I could spend more money if I wanted to, but the goal is to buy a new house outright when we figure out where we want to live. The more money I spend on a truck and trailer, the less I'll have to buy a house with later. |
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Posted: 4/16/2021 10:39:11 AM EDT
[#35]
My $0.02 from experience.
I'll take a 5.9 over a 6.7 any day of the week. The 5.9 is more fuel efficient and eats up the road at 1600-2000 rpm. Fuel economy is notably worse above 2000 rpm. The primary weakness to the Common Rail is centered around the injectors. They apparently have an extremely reduced service life when burning ULSD compared to the days of running LSD (because the 6.7 was already in production when we were forced into ULSD). They like to hang and misfire (seems to be common around 150,000 miles) and the damage can be anything from white smoking to melting holes in cylinder walls (and unlike the marine version of the engine, the automotive version is not sleeved). Basically, if the truck doesn't have any issues and you don't have service history of it having the injectors done but it around 180,000 miles...plan on doing injectors. That being said, another upgrade which is very practical for towing with the 6 speed is to add a Gear Vendor's overdrive unit which essentially turns your 6 speed into an 11 speed (same process as splitting gears on semi-tractors). Another thing to keep in mind. 3/4 ton trucks with flatbeds, the bed could've been replaced because the original got damaged (it's cheaper to go flatbed than it is to repair an OE bed) or because it's more utilitarian for some. For example, I can backup to a dock, side load pallets of feed, etc which is why I tend to put flat beds on my 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks (the gooseneck ball is just a standard feature from the mainstream flatbed manufacturers). That being said, in no circumstances should the bed be welded to the frame as it can present some issues later on down the line (just keep an eye out for it). |
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Posted: 4/16/2021 12:33:29 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My $0.02 from experience. I'll take a 5.9 over a 6.7 any day of the week. The 5.9 is more fuel efficient and eats up the road at 1600-2000 rpm. Fuel economy is notably worse above 2000 rpm. The primary weakness to the Common Rail is centered around the injectors. They apparently have an extremely reduced service life when burning ULSD compared to the days of running LSD (because the 6.7 was already in production when we were forced into ULSD). They like to hang and misfire (seems to be common around 150,000 miles) and the damage can be anything from white smoking to melting holes in cylinder walls (and unlike the marine version of the engine, the automotive version is not sleeved). Basically, if the truck doesn't have any issues and you don't have service history of it having the injectors done but it around 180,000 miles...plan on doing injectors. That being said, another upgrade which is very practical for towing with the 6 speed is to add a Gear Vendor's overdrive unit which essentially turns your 6 speed into an 11 speed (same process as splitting gears on semi-tractors). Another thing to keep in mind. 3/4 ton trucks with flatbeds, the bed could've been replaced because the original got damaged (it's cheaper to go flatbed than it is to repair an OE bed) or because it's more utilitarian for some. For example, I can backup to a dock, side load pallets of feed, etc which is why I tend to put flat beds on my 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks (the gooseneck ball is just a standard feature from the mainstream flatbed manufacturers). That being said, in no circumstances should the bed be welded to the frame as it can present some issues later on down the line (just keep an eye out for it). Thanks for the info! Were the injectors an issue on the 5.9 or the 6.7? |
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Posted: 4/16/2021 1:56:07 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for the info! Were the injectors an issue on the 5.9 or the 6.7? 5.9 Common Rail (2003-2007 year models) 6.7 was introduced "officially" on the 2007.5 year model but was options as the "High Output" engine. Another thing I forgot to mention, aside from helper springs (overload springs) on the 1 tons, there aren't any component differences between a 3/4 ton and 1 ton SRW when it comes to the third generation and newer Rams (2003+). So the real difference between the trucks is the legal difference (legally a 3/4 ton even though it is the same truck as the 1 ton). Also, the MegaCabs (2006+) are "plus" sized chassis meaning they are on the chassis of the next weight class due to the weight of the cab. So a half ton MegaCab is an 8 lug 3/4 ton chassis only optioned in a V8. The 3/4 ton MC is a 1 ton chassis (with the 1 ton SRW having helper springs), etc. |
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Posted: 4/16/2021 8:56:25 PM EDT
[#38]
I think I'm going to let this one go.
How can this happen in 138,000 miles?  Cummins 24v crankcase pressure It was also puffing white smoke from the tailpipe, was a little difficult to start and idled like it was missing. |
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Posted: 4/16/2021 9:19:45 PM EDT
[#39]
Damn, bad injectors just like we were talking about. Leaky injectors will wash down the cylinder walls and trash them given enough time. Saw countless examples of this with common rail trucks on CL recently. I was considering a common rail or 12v truck (didn't want a 2nd gen 24v), and ultimately decided 12v is what I wanted. Dealership is smoking crack with that price.
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Posted: 4/16/2021 9:38:34 PM EDT
[#40]
I have a 2006 Cummins, 2500 4x4 Laramie that looks like a new one
Pm me if interested Yes I'm serious |
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Posted: 4/17/2021 10:41:42 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Damn, bad injectors just like we were talking about. Leaky injectors will wash down the cylinder walls and trash them given enough time. Saw countless examples of this with common rail trucks on CL recently. I was considering a common rail or 12v truck (didn't want a 2nd gen 24v), and ultimately decided 12v is what I wanted. Dealership is smoking crack with that price. When I mentioned it in my example, I was using a 2006 MegaCab my father bought new in 2006 as an example. Right at 154,000 miles the injector hung on #6. Caught it before it did much damage beyond just the rings on the cylinder but...#6 is the one cylinder you can't machine in frame because the cowl sits over it (6.0 Powerstroke style). That was in 2014 and $9,000 was as cheap as we could find anyone to overhaul/replace the engine. Dad ended up trading it on a new half ton (which cost $10,000 more than the fully loaded MegaCab did in 2006)...he still got nearly $22,000 on trade. There at the end the only reason dad was keeping that truck (he didn't need it for towing) was due to getting about 26 mpg on his daily commute. |
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Posted: 4/17/2021 10:53:36 AM EDT
[#42]
What's the symptom of a leaky injector, pre cylinder damage?
I'm guessing white or black smoke at idle? |
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Posted: 4/18/2021 12:19:21 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's the symptom of a leaky injector, pre cylinder damage? I'm guessing white or black smoke at idle? Not an expert, but hard starting is one I hear a lot. More engine noise (louder diesel knocking sound), rough idle, EGTs could be warmer than normal (I think you can use a temp gun to pinpoint which cylinder has trouble). Fuel in the oil. Light color smoke at idle. |
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Posted: 4/18/2021 12:59:30 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not an expert, but hard starting is one I hear a lot. More engine noise (louder diesel knocking sound), rough idle, EGTs could be warmer than normal (I think you can use a temp gun to pinpoint which cylinder has trouble). Fuel in the oil. Light color smoke at idle. This one definitely had the white (unburnt fuel) smoke at idle. |
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Posted: 4/18/2021 7:19:59 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My $0.02 from experience. I'll take a 5.9 over a 6.7 any day of the week. The 5.9 is more fuel efficient and eats up the road at 1600-2000 rpm. Fuel economy is notably worse above 2000 rpm. The primary weakness to the Common Rail is centered around the injectors. They apparently have an extremely reduced service life when burning ULSD compared to the days of running LSD (because the 6.7 was already in production when we were forced into ULSD). They like to hang and misfire (seems to be common around 150,000 miles) and the damage can be anything from white smoking to melting holes in cylinder walls (and unlike the marine version of the engine, the automotive version is not sleeved). Basically, if the truck doesn't have any issues and you don't have service history of it having the injectors done but it around 180,000 miles...plan on doing injectors. No B-series Cummins is sleeved, unless it has had repair sleeves installed. |
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Posted: 4/19/2021 10:25:35 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No B-series Cummins is sleeved, unless it has had repair sleeves installed. My understanding is the marine variant isn't actually a B series but is otherwise identical. Something I've been told by several marine diesel techs. |
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Posted: 4/19/2021 12:05:14 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My understanding is the marine variant isn't actually a B series but is otherwise identical. Something I've been told by several marine diesel techs. Again, no B-series Cummins is sleeved in its original configuration. |
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Posted: 4/19/2021 3:44:47 PM EDT
[#48]
Being on a budget and buying a used diesel don't go together. If anything gos wrong repairs are normally in the thousands! I'd recommend having $10,000 in the bank or $10,000 available credit for repairs. From my own experience, diesel mechanics are total rapists! With an older gas engine parts are normally pretty cheap, like even a remanufactured engine isn't to bad. Look at how much diesel engines cost. Even used junk yard engines are rediculiosly expensive. Don't believe the bullshit that diesels will go a million miles.
I've got a ford diesel with a little over 200,000 miles and it's just gotten to where something is always going wrong with it at this point. I still love the truck, but just don't trust it as much anymore. ETA: does the dealer offer a warranty? Can you buy some kind of warranty? I don't buy $20,000 used vehicles, but if I did I'd damn sure want an iron clad warranty or drivetrain insurance policy. |
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Posted: 4/25/2021 9:12:25 AM EDT
[#49]
I've had multiple 2nd and 3rd Gen diesel dodges. Family has had several also.
I now have a 2012 Ram 3500 crew with the 6.7 and G56 (bought new) and my daily is a 2018 Ram 2500 standard cab 6.7 and 68 auto (bought new). ** Both were deleted with under 1500mi on the odo ** I think the 4th Gens are better all around. As soon as u hop in and close the door you can tell. The interiors are much nicer and spacious. The doors close solid. The plastic seems of much higher, thicker quality material. Everything is bigger drivetrain wise, to meet the demands of higher tow ratings. A 6.7 shares many common parts with a 5.9, I think last I saw it was like 75% parts interchangeability. People continuously mix and match parts on the performance side, think P Pumped 6.7 in a 2nd Gen and so on. I love me some older dodges, but I wouldn't choose to daily one or work it hard over a newer 6.7 truck. Ymmv |
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Posted: 4/25/2021 11:44:08 AM EDT
[#50]
I bought an 05 2500 diesel 4x4 in 06 with about 30k miles. Three years ago I rebuilt the front end, but it got loose again. Two years ago I rebuilt the transmission. Other than that I did regular maintenance and replaced the tires. It had 188k miles when I traded it for a 2021 Tundra. The AC was starting to give trouble and it was time for new tires. I decided 15 years was pretty good for a Dodge. I miss the power and the hauling capacity, but I rarely used either. My main pull is an 18' camper and the Tundra can handle that.
The engine was still going strong and the interior held up well, but I'm not that hard on my equipment. The only other issue was the windshield wipers had been operating weird for a few years, but they never stopped. |
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