Posted: 3/12/2007 7:21:02 PM EDT
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I'm real new but reading. There is so much info here it is hard to absorb it all. Anyway I have a build question. I picked up 3 consecutive serial # stag lowers to build. I want to build one quick and sit on the other 2 for awhile. I am in NJ. I am trying to understand what is and isn't legal. I'm wondering what stock everyone likes? I know it can't be a fuctional folding stock. How are they pinned? Does it have to be pinned at the factory or is it something I can do? Any recomendations on a fixed stock? How about the barrel? No flash hider even if it's fixed. I'm guessing that there should be nothing on the barrel. No threads, nothing. Like I said I'm reading. I come here with a purpose in mind, like to read about triggers and end up finding something else and forget all about why I came. I'm currently trying to figure what LPK I want with what trigger and stock. Jer |
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There are some muzzle brakes that look like flash hiders and are OK in NJ. They still have to be permanently attached though. I like these, but there are also others available. www.kurtskustomfirearms.citymax.com/page/page/29585.htm |
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Wilson combat makes a brake that duplicates the standard birdcage flashider. Rainer Arms sells one that duplicates the YHM Phantom brake. You can have the barrel threaded and have the brake pinned and welded. I would recommend Adco Firearms. As far as the stock, I went with a pinned standard collapsable type. I purchased them new off the EE here for less than $50.00 , or you can always use the Ace skeleton style stock if you like that better. I'm using RRA 2 stage National Match triggers in all my AR's. You can find them here for appx. $90.00. Of course you can spend more and get a JP, Chip McCormick or Geisele set up too. Once you shoot an AR with a match trigger you can't go back to the standard set. It's probably the best upgrade you can do for your AR inexpensively. |
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jer, 
you can either get a traditional A1/A2 stock, a fixed length fake telescoping stock, or any other stock that has a fixed length (Magpul PRS, Vltor Rifle Modstock, etc). since you seem to be leaning towards the a fixed length fake telescoping stock, see www.bushmaster.com/shopping/buttstocks/1005-087-8988pek.asp these can often be found for sale on the EE at reduced cost compared to above. the BM fixed length fake telescoping stock actually uses a rifle length extension tube, and the plastic part is blind pinned onto the tube. even if you remove the blind pins, the stock will still not collapse, as you'd have to change out to a carbine length extension tube. you should consider this approach if you choose to modify a standard telescoping stock.
you can do a couple of things here. the end of the barrel can be blunt, or have a permanently affixed brake (not flash hider). the ATF's definition of permanently affixed means pinned and welded over. for this route, typically you'd choose a threaded barrel, select a suitable brake, and have a gunsmith do the pin and weld work. this is quite common but do not let a hack 'smith do this to a premium barrel as the mounting/pinning of the brake can affect absolute accuracy. MSTN, for example, will not pin and weld brakes/hiders to Noveske barrels. do not despair if your favorite barrel has threads on it, but you don't want a brake on the end. buy it, along with an ADCO thread protector. have a 'smith pin and weld the protector onto the barrel and then profile the protector to the barrel OD. done right, it's nearly impossible to tell that it was even done. no then, a brake *can* assist on staying on target for follow-up shots. however, there are side effects to brakes -- the biggest being increased noise and back/side blast. consider your use(s) of the rifle before mounting a brake of any type, and then research extensively here on ar15.com regarding the various brakes. some are much better (less noise etc) than others.
there is no single, universal solution. ultimately the LEGO-like AR platform encourages personal customization. just keep balance in mind -- there is no need for a $250 trigger setup on a rifle with iron sights on it. similarly, with $1200 of optics on top, you might want to invest in a decent trigger setup. good luck with your builds. ar-jedi ps below, a KISS M4gery (black) and a RECCE (tan). both are 16" bbls, blunt, the M4 in 4150 1:9 carbine (BM), the RECCE in SS 1:7 midlength (GTS RECON). optics are appropriate for the intended use of each rifle, specifically Aimpoint M2 and Leupold MR/T 3-9x36 Illum MilDot. trigger in the M4 is stock BM with a little hand work, and the RECCE has a CMC single stage drop-in.      |
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Thanks for the replies guys -- I'm still baffled though. I find myself having to read the forum with a separate window open to the Acronym post just so I can understand what the hell you guys are saying. Anyway, My original thoughts where to build a carbine on the cheap for my 1st build. I'm finding this hard for me to do. I find I don't like the looks of the pinned stocks, at least in the pictures. I'm not to fond of the ace skeleton either. I do like the PRS. Go figure $239. Gieselle trigger, A barrel from GTS, there are so many things to do here. It's hard for me to think "on the cheap carbine" with all the other options. I'm not even sure what my intended use is. I've got quite a few hunting rifles and I did a ton of hunting 10 years ago. Now I find myself enjoying a 22 rimfire with my boys. 7 and 10. We tend to go to PA 4 or 5 times a year to friends/relatives with acres. I recently added a mini 14 to our list of fun guns. I've always wanted an AR but have never shot 1. As I said, I now own 3 lowers. I'm totally set up to reload, currently 45 acp, .38, .357, .243, .300 min mag, .22-250, .30carbine. I just bought a set of .223 dies. I happened to buy 1000 once fired cases a few years ago knowing I was going to go to .223. I'm still lost for the moment. I think I'm going to take my time and build a real nice mid length. I like the PRS stock. I'll probably just start off with that. RRA LPK with a 2 stage NM trigger. I've been in contact with the guy on the EE who is tuning triggers. Says the RRA NM triggers take the best tune if needed. I have not even begun to think UPPER. I was thinking about going to the hometown blast in April. Bring the Mini 14 and just have a chance to see some ARs and learn a little. Jer |
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Here are 2 links that may help you with your build-up. jtdistributing.com/store/ www.model1sales.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=KCE160&storeid=1?=car16pre.gif Both of these sell kits which you just have to supply the stripped lower. Personally I think the Olymic Arms Plinker Plus would have been a good, cheap choice. www.olyarms.com/?rootView=browse&view=dtl&ids=PP  Not sure if you can get it with a brake and no bayo lug though. |
