Posted: 12/23/2005 9:23:43 AM EDT
|
Does anyone know a place in the Buffalo or Rochester Area that I can go to get a flash suppresor pinned and welded? Thanks |
Will this pass muster in NJ (simply silver-soldering a MB/thread cap at +1100F, without the whole drill and pin affair)? I'm eyeing some used 20" barrels for my post-ban Oly in NJ and the only thing in the way is A.) money and B.) the lug and threads on the barrels. |
Many of the Major evil gun MFGs soldered on their brakes during the FED AWB , I'm pretty sure they sold them in NJ. As far as the bayo lug , a cutoff wheel - some sandpaper and a spot of paint or bluing will make you good to go. 
|
I can't speak for NJ's laws, but the NY AWB mirrors the old '94 ban - and an accepted method using those guidelines is to silver solder it on with a solder that has a melting point of 1100F or greater - which generally will require a minimum of mapp gas or oxy/acetalene type heat to melt... I got mine at a place called Starr Gems, Inc in Tucson, Az - (520)-882-8750... For $13 total, I got a 1oz syringe of their "Easy Paste Solder" - has to be enough to solder on a lifetime of devices, and looks to be handy for some other uses as well.... - georgestrings |
See above post - in NY, it has to be a solder with a minimum melting point of 1100F or above - which will require more than just propane to melt... - georgestrings |
How is the law worded that the solder melting temp must be 1100 degrees? |
It was an ATF opinion letter that stated welding or 1100 degree silver solder was an acceptable method for attaching a muzzle brake or barrel extension. The whole point of using 1100 silver solder is so it can't be removed with an ordinary propane torch. www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs/user/wbardwel/public/nfalist/atf_letter40.txt "A muzzle device, such as a muzzle brake or barrel extension, which is attached to a barrel by means of welding or high temperature silver solder having a melting point of at least 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit, is considered to be part of the barrel for purposes of measurement. A seam weld extending at least one-half the circumference of the barrel or four equidistant tack welds around the circumference of the barrel are adequate for this purpose. A firearm having a muzzle brake, cap, or barrel extension permanently attached by those same methods to cover the threads on a barrel, would not be considered to have a threaded muzzle. Please note, however, that any muzzle device or barrel extension which functions as a flash suppressor or grenade launcher would still constitute one of the qualifying features of a semiautomatic assault weapon as that term is defined in 18 U.S.C. section 921(a)(30(B). Industrial adhesive products are not an acceptable method for permanently attaching a muzzle device." |
Well, what I did was wire brush the threads, and degrease them real good with rubbing alcohol - then I smeared a good amount of the silver solder paste on the threads, tightened down the device(timing it properly along the way) - and heated it up 'til it was red/orange in the area of the threads.... I then let it air cool, sanded it with 600grit, then gave it a finish... As for the heat source, I've used both mapp gas and oxy/acetalene with good results, but if you use oxy/acetalene, keep the flame down, and move it around - you don't want to damage anything... Some people have used a type of heatsink paste in the bore, and on the rest of the barrel to keep anything that doesn't need to be heated from absorbing heat - but I haven't bothered, and haven't run into any problems as a result... Just use common sense, and you'll do just fine... - georgestrings |
|
BTW - I DID end up removing one of my silver soldered muzzle devices for a guy in a free state that bought a rifle from me - and although it came back off after being installed as mentioned above - it WAS on there pretty good... I had to heat it(the device) up red/orange again, and turn it back off before the solder set back up again - and it didn't want to unthread all that easily - it came off, though - and after a little wire wheeling the threads, and a fresh finish, you couldn't tell it had ever been done... - georgestrings |
|
The ATF calls it "silver solder" but it is actually brazing with a silver alloy. BernzOmatic makes an inexpensive MAPP/OXY torch that should work very well for this type of brazing. Just make sure you use a silver/alloy designed for brazing ferrous metals. I would also practice brazing on some scrap steel first. |