Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
12/29/2008 9:41:28 AM EDT
Is there anyone in the DFW area that does this work?  

TIA
12/29/2008 11:28:00 AM EDT
[#1]
You can get a bottle of map gas and roll of silver solder from lowes and do it yourself for what a gun smith will charge.
It's easy.  

12/29/2008 12:04:40 PM EDT
[#2]
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs/user/wbardwel/public/nfalist/atf_letter40.txt


March 31, 1998

BATF
Firearms Technology Branch
Washington, DC 20226

Greetings:

    I had some questions about permanently attaching muzzle brakes
and barrel extensions to firearms.

    As you are aware, some barrels, particularly for some semi-
automatic rifles, come with muzzle threads. However, it may be
necessary, depending on the other features of the rifle, to remove
those threads, in order to keep the firearm from being considered
a "semi-automatic assault weapon". Additionally, some firearm
barrels come in lengths below 16 inches, and in order to be
installed on rifles without making the rifle subject to the
National Firearms Act, an extension may be permanently attached to
the end of the barrel, by muzzle threads, so as to make the barrel
length at least 16 inches.

    I was wondering what methods of attachment to muzzle threads
are considered permanent enough so as to either extend the barrel
length, by use of an extension, or to remove the muzzle threads as
a feature of a semi-automatic rifle which might otherwise be
considered a "semiautomatic assault weapon"

    In particular, I have heard that welding is acceptable. If you
can, please advise me of the method of welding, and the required
weld coverage. I have also heard that high temperature silver
solder is acceptable. If you can, please advise me as to the solder
alloy, and melting temperature that would be considered permanent.
I have also heard that some industrial adhesives are acceptable, in
particular a product called "Rocksett". I would appreciate
confirmation as to which, if any, industrial adhesives have been
found to be acceptable.

    Also, if there are any other methods which I have not
mentioned above, which have also been found to be acceptable
methods of permanently installing muzzle devices onto rifles, I
would appreciate it if you could advise me of what they are.

Sincerely,



                  DEPARTMENT OF THE TREASURY
            Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms
                    Washington, D.C. 20226

                          JUN 18 1998            F:FPD:FTB:RAT
                                                 3311


Dear Mr. :

This refers to your letter of March 31, 1998, in which you ask
about permanently attaching a muzzle device to various firearms.

A muzzle device, such as a muzzle brake or barrel extension, which
is attached to a barrel by means of welding or high temperature
silver solder having a melting point of at least 1,100 degrees
Fahrenheit, is considered to be part of the barrel for purposes of
measurement.  A seam weld extending at least one-half the
circumference of the barrel or four equidistant tack welds around
the circumference of the barrel are adequate for this purpose.

A firearm having a muzzle brake, cap, or barrel extension
permanently attached by those same methods to cover the threads on
a barrel, would not be considered to have a threaded muzzle.
Please note, however, that any muzzle device or barrel extension
which functions as a flash suppressor or grenade launcher would
still constitute one of the qualifying features of a semiautomatic
assault weapon as that term is defined in 18 U.S.C. section
921(a)(30(B).  Industrial adhesive products are not an acceptable
method for permanently attaching a muzzle device.

                             - 2 -

Mr.

We trust that the foregoing has been responsive to your inquiry.
If you have further questions concerning this matter, please
contact us.


                       Sincerely yours,

                           [signed]

                      Edward M. Owen, Jr.
               Chief, Firearms Technology Branch
12/29/2008 12:33:38 PM EDT
[#3]
I already have the map gas torch.  I guess I just need to find the proper solder.
12/29/2008 1:22:49 PM EDT
[#4]
How does one know if his flash hider is permanent?  I bought it in the CMMG Bargain Bin..

12/29/2008 1:43:58 PM EDT
[#5]
look for the blind pin or solder.

12/29/2008 1:50:22 PM EDT
[#6]
I see a (crush?) washer behind the FH, but how do I know where to look for a blind pin?  Isn't the point that I can't see it?  I cannot see any visible holes or solder, just the washer and the FH which is tapered on two sides I'd guess to grab at with a wrench

My BBL is 16" with I guess a 1.5" FH on it (it is not a 14.5" barrel).
12/29/2008 3:51:24 PM EDT
[#7]
If it is a 16" barrel, with a Flash Hider on it - how do you know it is permanently attached?  That would not be permanently attached due to SBR (barrel length) requirements, nor would it have been done with a Flash Hider during the 1994 AWB.
12/29/2008 4:27:34 PM EDT
[#8]
crush easer, 16", both say no pin or solder to me.
Put a wrench on it and apply some pressure.
I bet it comes free long before you would get to shear torque.
12/29/2008 4:36:37 PM EDT
[#9]
Yeah, I guess that is what I am asking. If I don't see a pin or solder, it must be a screw on, right?

Do I really need a barrel wrench to take off the flash hider?

My concern of course being I might rotate the barrel inside the upper receiver if I apply rotational pressure to the flash hider... Right??

12/29/2008 4:48:33 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Yeah, I guess that is what I am asking. If I don't see a pin or solder, it must be a screw on, right?

Do I really need a barrel wrench to take off the flash hider?

My concern of course being I might rotate the barrel inside the upper receiver if I apply rotational pressure to the flash hider... Right??



You are correct in having a concern in damaging the barrel extention pin, or upper receiver, if you twist on the barrel muzzle device, while holding the upper receiver.  The proper way to install/remove muzzle devices is when clamped on the BARREL.  I use an old leather chamois or belt, to protect the barrel finish, and then clamp tightly in a vise.  I will clamp on the FSB if pinned, and I dont plan on twisting with massive amounts of torque.  

I don't recommend twisting on the muzzle device if the only thing holding the upper is the action block, as you can snap the barrel extension pin, or dapage the upper receiver, and cant the barrel.
12/29/2008 4:50:41 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
I already have the map gas torch.  I guess I just need to find the proper solder.


I don't recommend doing silver solder yourself, unless you REALLY know what you are doing.  The silver solder method, if not applied 100% correctly, will allow the muzzle device to be removed with enough torque and if tested - wont pass an ATF inspection.  This is why almost everyone has switched to blind pin and welding, to remove the liability.
12/29/2008 4:52:21 PM EDT
[#12]
OK but a clamp around a pad on the barrel/fsb would be OK you think?

I cannot tell if my FSB is pinned or not - there's pins on the bottom but they appear to just be FSB-FSB type of pins, not actually stuck into the barrel as far as I can tell.

So... barrel wrench?  
12/29/2008 4:59:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:

So... barrel wrench?  


Any wrench that is thin enough to get on the flats is just fine.  There is nothing special about a barrel wrench to remove muzzle devices, other than some standard wrenches are too fat and wont fit on the flats without hitting and marring up the crush washer.

12/29/2008 5:31:24 PM EDT
[#14]
I mean barrel wrench to hold the barrel in place while I use a regular wrench to remove the flash hider. But maybe first I will try to hold the barrel with my other hand really tight and see if I can't get the flash hider off w/out using a barrel wrench or vise.
12/29/2008 5:48:32 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
I mean barrel wrench to hold the barrel in place while I use a regular wrench to remove the flash hider. But maybe first I will try to hold the barrel with my other hand really tight and see if I can't get the flash hider off w/out using a barrel wrench or vise.


A Barrel wrench does not hold a barrel.  A barrel wrench is used to remove barrels from receivers.  You cannot use it to hold a barrel.

You use a vise, with barrel vice blocks to hold a barrel.  Or - you can use the method I described above, and wrap the barrel in leather and clamp tightly in a vise.

You cannot hold the barrel in your hands and remove or install a muzzle device, unless your name is Lou Ferrigno and you have been irradiated with gamma rays in a freak accident.
12/29/2008 5:57:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Oh ok, now I am on the same page as all of you. Thanks.

So with the belt method, do you just wrap it once or twice and vise it up?  Any special side or type of belt?

Also after I get it off, say I want it on for the time being –– is there any harm in leaving it on, but loose?   The one I have is mostly symmetric 360' around, so I don't think it's position will matter...  ???

1/11/2009 9:23:21 AM EDT
[#17]
So back to my original question, where in DFW can I get the blind pin done?
1/11/2009 10:33:07 AM EDT
[#18]
I bit the bullet and sent mine in to ADCO.  It will arrive this week!!!  They had my upper for only 3 or 4 days.
1/12/2009 5:06:50 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
I bit the bullet and sent mine in to ADCO.  It will arrive this week!!!  They had my upper for only 3 or 4 days.


what all did you have done?
1/12/2009 6:21:44 PM EDT
[#20]
Sent in an LMT 14.5 upper to have a Vltor FH blind pinned.