Posted: 10/14/2008 3:12:41 PM EDT
| Has anybody had experience of Jager Sporting Arms to do a Duracoat paint job or even one of the DIY kits? |
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I sprayed a stainless barrel with Black Plastikote semi-matt paint for Woodstoves, bought at B&Q for £5. link here Came out ok... |
Thanks guys, a bit of homework on the main forum seems to lean towards GunKote as simpler to apply and more durable ie paddyproof. However, a bit concerned about the idea of plastic stock and pistol grip at 300 degrees in the oven. Had hoped to match up A2 stock, pistol grip and free floating forearm with a quality paint job .... open to suggestions 
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I had a green aics stock on a remington 700 once. Hydragraphics coated the barrel, action and scope to match the green of the stock. |
What a cool idea, did it really work OK, I'm up for trying that ???? |
Hi Tim Yep came out fine (apart from where I didn't mask it very well around the FSP, I was too lazy to remove it  ).I cleaned the barrel with solvent to degrease, then sprayed it in the garden on a warm sunny day. (These are rare  ) I then left it to cure overnight.I know someone who also used BBQ paint on his barrel, which is where I got the idea from. |
Thanks Steven, I will report back in a day or two 
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James [jaeger sporting arms] did a custom remmy 700 for me, wilddog stock, barrelled action, the lot, and its superb. very hard wearing, and the bolt is like silk. Painting is something that needs to be taught. I used to be a custom bike painter in my past, taught by my father, who painted cars. 90% of it is in the preparation. James was trained at Lauer weaponry in the states, so has undergone their correct procedures for applying the duracoat. Jobs done by people who dont know what they are doing, are what give the gun paints a bad name, and reputation unfortunatly. We have been using gunkote in the shop of late, and to be honest, i dont think its a patch on duracote.It comes over from the states pre-thinned, and its way TOO thin.It also is cellulose based, and knocks you out. James is currently doing all our shop work, and we will eventually switch to duracoat ourselves. |
| Thanks Baldie, point taken. Begs the question have you actually seen or handled any of James's finished weapons a year or so after treatment with Duracoat. I would love to know if the expert applied finish is any more chip resistent than an average DIY attempt. |
| Mine,s been on maybe 8 months now, and there,s not a mark on it. Ok, it doesn,t get used every day, and i do handle my rifles with care...but after shooting for the best part of 35 years, and also working in the trade...you get a feel for products, and duracoat is a good one. Again , however, though...its only as good as the preparation. James can sandblast then parkerise , before paint, and thats the best key for paint there is. For the extra it costs over a diy kit, its a no brainer really..and obviously all work is guaranteed. |
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I have a Bushmaster AR15 that was duracoated by Lauer Custom Weapons, the guys behind duracoating. I bought it maybe in 2002 or 2003? I used it quite a bit for a couple of years before I bought/built a Colt/LMT mutt. The paint was scratched off around the base of the magazine well and where the ejection port door strikes the carbine. I also scratched it pretty good on something, but I forget what. I can dig it out and post pictures if you want. Norrells is supposed to be better than duracoating, but my bottles of Norrells are sitting on a shelf in the cellar 
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So Baldie, is my 6.5x47 having a Duracoat or Gunkote finish?
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