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AR15.COM
1/14/2007 3:41:55 PM EDT
Who (store or ya'll) in central AR would have a good collapsible stock (used ok, don't care about make or how many holes, just quality) and a carbine length gas tube and roll pin for sale.  And a barrel nut tool that I can buy or use.

I know Don's doesn't.   It's time to get my rifle running 100% instead of 95%.  Apparently it's the most reliable thing in my life as it is. Don't ask.
1/16/2007 7:05:41 AM EDT
[#1]
Dusty, Fred Choate is putting out a great collapsible stock for AR's now down in Bald Knob, it looks alot like the LMT SOPMOD but it is about half the price. I put one on my rifle to try out and I really like it. I also have the post ban stock I took off my rifle if you want it, it is just the stock, not the complete assembly.

www.riflestock.com/
1/16/2007 12:07:45 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Who (store or ya'll) in central AR would have a good collapsible stock (used ok, don't care about make or how many holes, just quality) and a carbine length gas tube and roll pin for sale.  And a barrel nut tool that I can buy or use.

I know Don's doesn't.   It's time to get my rifle running 100% instead of 95%.  Apparently it's the most reliable thing in my life as it is. Don't ask.



What is wrong with your rifle?   I have a spare CAR gas tube and roll pin.

I have all the tools to work on AR-15s, if you can get me more specific info on what is wrong, I can probably steer you in the right direction.

1/16/2007 12:12:42 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Who (store or ya'll) in central AR would have a good collapsible stock (used ok, don't care about make or how many holes, just quality) and a carbine length gas tube and roll pin for sale.  And a barrel nut tool that I can buy or use.

I know Don's doesn't.   It's time to get my rifle running 100% instead of 95%.  Apparently it's the most reliable thing in my life as it is. Don't ask.



What is wrong with your rifle?   I have a spare CAR gas tube and roll pin.

I have all the tools to work on AR-15s, if you can get me more specific info on what is wrong, I can probably steer you in the right direction.

It's not cycling reliably with normal ammo.  Only the hot stuff.  Cowboy and I have decided that it's more than likely the stock and buffer, the only cheap parts I used.  BUT When assembling it, I couldn't get the barrel nut to line up quite right, and I had to torque the gas tube just a hair to get it straight into the key.  So in the interest of making sure it's done right, I'm going to redo it right.
1/16/2007 12:26:43 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
It's not cycling reliably with normal ammo.  Only the hot stuff.  Cowboy and I have decided that it's more than likely the stock and buffer, the only cheap parts I used.  BUT When assembling it, I couldn't get the barrel nut to line up quite right, and I had to torque the gas tube just a hair to get it straight into the key.  So in the interest of making sure it's done right, I'm going to redo it right.


As long as the gas tube isnt binding or interfering with the gas key, having it bent or tweaked a little bit should be no big deal.  It is rare to get the barrel nut and gas tube hole aligned peferctly, so slightly off center gas tubes are pretty common.  Thats why the gas key hole has a large chamfer in it, to funnel that bad boy in there.

What barrel length are you using?  16"?

Are your gas key screws tight and staked properly?

when you say not cycling reliably, do you mean the bolt doesnt always lock back on an empty round, or do you mean it is short stroking to the point of not feeding the next round in the magazine?

are you running a standard weight recoil spring and a standard bolt carrier with a standard buffer?  if not, you need to switch back to them.

another thing, if you suspect the stock is binding up the bolt carrier group, the best way to check is just to manually cycle the action and feel for pinching or binding.  If you dont feel anything like that, then that isnt the problem.  Another common thing that can bind is the hammer, sometimes the hammer pin hole is cut too high and it will cause the hammer to bind on the bolt carrier.  again, just manually cycle the action and feel for any excessive dragging or binding.

if all that stuff checks out ok, then your rifle is undergassed, and the gas port needs to be enlarged.  I tune my rifles so that they will barely lock the bolt back on an empty mag with wolf ammo in cold weather.  

hope that helps.  any more questions, just ask away.

1/16/2007 4:46:24 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
It's not cycling reliably with normal ammo.  Only the hot stuff.  Cowboy and I have decided that it's more than likely the stock and buffer, the only cheap parts I used.  BUT When assembling it, I couldn't get the barrel nut to line up quite right, and I had to torque the gas tube just a hair to get it straight into the key.  So in the interest of making sure it's done right, I'm going to redo it right.


As long as the gas tube isnt binding or interfering with the gas key, having it bent or tweaked a little bit should be no big deal.  It is rare to get the barrel nut and gas tube hole aligned peferctly, so slightly off center gas tubes are pretty common.  Thats why the gas key hole has a large chamfer in it, to funnel that bad boy in there.

What barrel length are you using?  16"?

Are your gas key screws tight and staked properly?

when you say not cycling reliably, do you mean the bolt doesnt always lock back on an empty round, or do you mean it is short stroking to the point of not feeding the next round in the magazine?

are you running a standard weight recoil spring and a standard bolt carrier with a standard buffer?  if not, you need to switch back to them.

another thing, if you suspect the stock is binding up the bolt carrier group, the best way to check is just to manually cycle the action and feel for pinching or binding.  If you dont feel anything like that, then that isnt the problem.  Another common thing that can bind is the hammer, sometimes the hammer pin hole is cut too high and it will cause the hammer to bind on the bolt carrier.  again, just manually cycle the action and feel for any excessive dragging or binding.

if all that stuff checks out ok, then your rifle is undergassed, and the gas port needs to be enlarged.  I tune my rifles so that they will barely lock the bolt back on an empty mag with wolf ammo in cold weather.  

hope that helps.  any more questions, just ask away.

I'll give you the full spec sheet with a rundown of the exact problems.

16 inch Bushy M4 chrome lined barrel
Mega flat top upper
RRA enhanced BCG
Mega Gator Lower
DPMS LPK
Bushy and C products mags
No name import stock with unknown weight buffer

When I pull back on the charging handle, it feels a lot stiffer than other AR's I've handled in the past.  And it's not a smooth pull.

The issues are short stroking, both ejecting a round but failing to feed the next, and failure to lock back on an empty mag.  At first it was happening constantly.  The first mag didn't eject and then feed a new round a single time.  It's got a few thousand through it now, and the only ammo I've found that functions 100% is Black hills 60 grain Nosler JSP.  Most everything else except black hills 60 grain JSP functions better than 90%  It's only had one malfunction that wasn't an FTF.  So other than that damn buffer issue, it's good and reliable. As I stated in the OP, it's been hard trying to find a shop in central AR that has gun parts.  When I asked Trent, he didn't even have a stock.  I'm going to ask him again before I head up.  I don't care about brand, I just want a collapsible stick with a reliable buffer.  
1/17/2007 4:04:52 AM EDT
[#6]
Did ya' clean out the buffer tube before installation?
Sometimes they'll pack grease in there which can give you the problems you describe.
1/17/2007 4:40:04 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Did ya' clean out the buffer tube before installation?
Sometimes they'll pack grease in there which can give you the problems you describe.
Yeah, It doesn't have a mushy feel like it's running into grease, more like cheap steel rubbing on cheap steel or to stiff a spring,  Hard to describe, but I used to be a steel worker and can tell.  Someone told me that I can polish it and it may help but I dunno.  I'd rather have all quality parts.  Not a thousand dollar build and a $30 stock.  I was effing stupid for trying to skimp.  Honestly here I am buying some of the best parts money can buy for it, and skimp on an important one.  Lessons learned.  
1/17/2007 6:02:51 AM EDT
[#8]
told ya
1/17/2007 9:42:35 AM EDT
[#9]
the buffer tube should be aluminum, not steel, unless you have some crazy stock I have never heard of.


Take out the buffer spring and remove the hammer from your lower.  Now cycle the bolt group.  If you feel it binding significantly, then your buffer tube/stock is the problem.  If not, you most likely have too heavy of a buffer spring, or too heavy of a buffer.

Get a new standard weight buffer spring and standard buffer and you should be good to go.

1/18/2007 6:40:03 AM EDT
[#10]
uh o I guess I screwed up ordering a h2 buffer with my lower?  Its going on a 16
" m4.  O well I guess Ill find out soon enough.  That stock from Choate above looks pretty good.  Did it have good lock up and feel sturdy to you............little late for that to I got  a Magpul but I don't think I will be disappointed with that part.
1/18/2007 8:25:49 AM EDT
[#11]
FWIW, I've never had a problem running different buffers.

I've got H2s in a couple of lowers as well as regular weight. I've got a 9mm buffer on my 10.5 SBR. My tubes are all milspec (Colt, CMT, Magpul), even though it shouldn't matter.

I use the heavier ones to manipulate my suppressed guns.
1/18/2007 9:29:00 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
uh o I guess I screwed up ordering a h2 buffer with my lower?  Its going on a 16
" m4.  O well I guess Ill find out soon enough.  That stock from Choate above looks pretty good.  Did it have good lock up and feel sturdy to you............little late for that to I got  a Magpul but I don't think I will be disappointed with that part.



the heavier buffers are fine on guns that are gassed heavily enough to run them.

most factory rifles are, but sometimes you will get one that is less gassed.  Then a standard buffer and spring need to be used, or even lighter.  If your gun wont run with a heavy buffer, it is no big deal, and I actually prefer a marginally gassed gun because they have less recoil.  I run my guns with a lightened bolt carrier and a standard buffer and use a minimal gas port size to get proper function.  This reduces the recoil drastically.

1/18/2007 12:51:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Picked up a lightweight buffer and spring today. Just looking at the spring I could tell a big difference. The steel that made it up was much smaller diameter than the one I had in it.  It's a lot easier to cycle now.  


ETA Monarch functions perfectly now in my 20 round mags.  Shitty as hell in my 30 rounders. XM193 runs perfectly through everything I have, and now, kicks like a mule.  Black hills nosler is running perfectly to (already did) .  So should I be happy with it running 5.56 and hot .223 perfectly or should I try to work on it more until it'll run regular .223 also?  What would be the next step?  All I'd know of is enlarging the gas port and I won't attempt that.  It'll go to a gunsmith for that if it needs done.
1/19/2007 9:12:24 AM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Picked up a lightweight buffer and spring today. Just looking at the spring I could tell a big difference. The steel that made it up was much smaller diameter than the one I had in it.  It's a lot easier to cycle now.  


ETA Monarch functions perfectly now in my 20 round mags.  Shitty as hell in my 30 rounders. XM193 runs perfectly through everything I have, and now, kicks like a mule.  Black hills nosler is running perfectly to (already did) .  So should I be happy with it running 5.56 and hot .223 perfectly or should I try to work on it more until it'll run regular .223 also?  What would be the next step?  All I'd know of is enlarging the gas port and I won't attempt that.  It'll go to a gunsmith for that if it needs done.


When you say light buffer do you mean the standard CAR buffer, or something even lighter?  Does it have the anti-bounce weights in it?  Those are important.

Are you using a Wolff reduced power recoil spring or a standard spring or something else now?

What malfs are you getting with the monarch?  Is it the steel cased or the brass cased?

sounds like you have improved the reliability quite a bit, but 100% should be the goal.
1/19/2007 9:23:10 AM EDT
[#15]
It's a standard CAR buffer.  I was about to come in here and post.

Just got back from the range (backyard ) after giving it a good cleaning.  Few hundred bucks worth of ammo through it, and not a single issue.  UNTIL, I fired with the same 30 round mag that was giving me trouble yesterday.  I can't see a damn thing wrong with it.  Bushy 30 rounder with a green follower.  Looks fine.  But it's shit. n Worked fine with xm193 in it, just not monarch.  dunno why a mag would act like that, but I narrowed it down to that mag.  I fired a shitload of ammo through all my mags this morning.  Monarch, black hills, and 193 and the only time I had issues was the monarch in that one mag.  It still functioned right with hot ammo.  

It was short stroking all the way through the mag yesterday.  It's brass cased, and the new buffer has the anti bounce weights in it.
1/19/2007 10:23:31 AM EDT
[#16]
check the lips on the bad magazine against one of the good ones.  I had a m1a mag do something similar one time.
1/19/2007 11:23:17 AM EDT
[#17]
Another damn update. Loaded up all my mags with the rest of the monarch shit, and went out.  It did it with everyone this time. I popped the rifle open and it was nastier than my ex wife.  Looked like it'd had 10,000 round through it.  Pretty bad when it's only had 170.  So without cleaning it, I load every mag up with xm193.  I then got all medium speed moderate drag and proceeded to blast shit in the yard while on the move.  No matter the brand or size of the mag, it functioned like my glock.  It was nasty to start with, but as I was pulling one mag out, it brought another with it, it fell into the muddy clay of my yard.  Inspiration hit me. I hit a knee and shredded a tree. Dumped the mag, grabbed the one that hit the mud, sure enough, it hit open end first, shook it one time, and still full of mud, put it in, and dumped the bolt, and went back to moving and shooting.  Not a single malfunction out of a mag with mud in it.  

My only logical conclusion, and correct me if I'm wrong, is that Monarch is some nasty and weak ammo that just aint enough for my carbine.  


Before when It ran fine except that one bushy mag (last mag of a string fired through it) it had just had one hell of a cleaning.  Got a little dirty, and wouldn't function with the cheap shit.  

Guess it gets a steady diet of xm193 from now on.
1/19/2007 12:27:12 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
, it functioned like my glock.  



J/K good to hear you got it worked out
1/19/2007 12:42:23 PM EDT
[#19]
now that's funny right there.  After shooting in the mud and ice all morning I decided that my Glock had earned it's bi annual cleaning.  So I took it down and really got to looking at it.  I've shot it so much, I've worn the finish off the slide lock.  People will say using the slide lock as a slide release will mar slide and make it less reliable.  HORSE SHIT.  The finish is gone from where I hit the release, and it still looks brand new where it contacts the slide.  I also had a little fun with the grip.  



1/22/2007 9:23:15 AM EDT
[#20]
I like it, nice DIY Dusty
1/23/2007 12:18:31 PM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
I like it, nice DIY Dusty
 I like this DIY better, I did it the night after I did my glock last weekend.


1/23/2007 7:08:00 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I like it, nice DIY Dusty
 I like this DIY better, I did it the night after I did my glock last weekend.


img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/dustyc/Gun%20stuff/m4.jpg

Now that dont look bad at all