Posted: 2/28/2008 11:47:04 AM EDT
|
I've got the funds so I need a little advice from experienced reloaders. I have been spending a lot of time in the reloading forum but I would like some feedback from the HTF. So far, I'm planning to reload for my 9mm and 5.56mm for training. I also want to do some small volume accuracy loads for my bolt gun (7.62). Press wise I've decided on the Dillon 550b. I think it will provide the volume I want but still do the accurate stuff since it can be used as a single stage. My questions are... What to get for a scale? I know some say the blue stuff other than the presses are overpriced. I was going to just do a massive order from this guy: LINK It would make all my equipment blue basically...so I'm just wanting some advice on scales, a tumbler...carbide dies? I'm looking to load about 1000 pistol each month, and about half that for 5.56. The bolt gun won't get shot much, maybe 100 or so each month. My neighbor is also going to need some rounds done as well. Looking for efficiency basically. Thanks in advance! I'm building my benches this week and would like to put my order in for the equipment this weekend. |
|
I am just using a lyman beam type scale. You basically only use the scale to get your powder measure setup and to check every so many loads. No need to get a digital one. Tumbler. I would get whatever is on sale locally or through midwayusa.com Also just use corn cob or walnut bedding that you can buy at your local petco or pet store as it won't leave a residue inside your cases. The 9mm will run very quickly through the progressive and I would go with the carbide dies. As for 223 and 7.62 you may want to pickup another single stage or turret press BC the lube, deprime, resize and trim will need to happen seperately. I then use the progressive to prime, charge, seat and crimp my 223. Also if you are just starting out I would probably suggest getting a turret press to begin with. Once you get a few hundred rounds under your belt and understand all the adjustments and processes seperatly I would then move into a progressive. Just my 2 cents. |
|
Also when reloading ammo. I take the first few and chamber it to make sure it fits in the gun and magazine. Even through everything measures out still a good idea before you make 100's of them. Thats the only downside to preogressives you can make a lot of good ammo fast or a lot of poor ammo fast. Also check the primers on finished cases to make sure none are sideways or upside down. |
| With my limited experience reloading I can tell you that the RCBS digital autofeeding setup is nice and precise but can be a bit slow. We are talking about getting a powder feeder for faster loading of plinking stuff but will continue to use the digital scale for precision stuff. |
|
I just started reloading, and personally I am scared of the progressive presses at this point. I just got done reloading my first 1000 of .223 and got a good rhythm down with just my single stage turret press, the part that takes the most time right now is actually seating primers. I fired off about 500 rounds or so of my handloaded .223 last Sunday without a single jam, failure to fire, or god forbid a missed charge. The whole Lynman set I bought was $250 at Sportsmans (durring the 10% sale) and came with pretty much everything except for die sets. Basically I lube my cases, size/ deprime, prime on the down stroke, then set the primed cases into a loading block. I wipe the lube off of each case and check for primer depth, deburr/ ream if the neck is rough. Then I switch over to my powder measure (threaded into the turret) dump powder, and on the down stroke move the turret over one stage to the seating die, check for the presence of powder near the neck, and seat the bullet. I can dump powder and seat the bullet in about 10 seconds, and do about a 100 rounds in a little over a half hour. I check the powder measure about every 10 rounds using just the basic little beam scale that came with the kit. With a progressive I would just be too worried about fouling something up because there are just so many actions going on at once. |
|
I've reloaded probably 10K of .223 in the last year, and finally bought a proggressive for loading .40S&W last month. I'll admit, I was intimidated by the idea at first (and I started reloading 20 odd years ago) but after getting things set up and learning the process, I wished I'd gone proggressive for pistol a long time ago. For rifle, I'm stepping up to a turret press. I can load the turret with my sizer, pocket swager, RCBS Uniflow, seater, and Lee FCD, and still have room for a universal decapper die. A good powder measure is worth it. I can load 300-400 rounds of .223, and only weigh maybe 6-8 charges, and the Uniflow stays spot on. Its fun, but addicting. |
And when exactly do you trim your brass?? |
(And after resizing.)
I still use single stage rock chucker and that's what I do too. Just get into a rythm and you'll be fine so long as you do everything the same each time. |
Yes....I KNOW when to trim my brass.....Im just asking that guy since his steps of lubing, Depriming/resizing, then RE-Priming, and then wipeing off the lube and putting them in a loading block, doesnt leave any steps for the brass to be trimmed. For his safety I'm hoping he isnt leaving that step out in the rush to crank out ammo quickly. |
| It's quite suprising from lot to lot what case lenghts you can get when resizing. I sized about 300 LC07 the other day, and only a handful fell within specs, the rest were anywhere from 1.761-1.77. Then I size a few hundred LC06, and 90% were good to go. Yeah, I mic EVERY case after sizing, and sort between GTG and Trim bins. For my FMJ stuff, and the fact I crimp with the FCD, I'm not worried about every piece being same length, but I don't load a single case thats over 1.76 |
D'oh! Sorry, I missed that. 
|
New brass from Winchester I have found to be the right length already. But I always trim my pickups if the need it. But you're right, I should have included the step in my post above. |
If you use an RCBS Lube Pad, you will not have to worry about cleaning the lube off. Just put a good amount of hte lube on the pad, rub it in, then roll your casings on the pad. This will put just enough to get hte cartridge out of the sizer. |
|
I just got paid yesterday, and think Im gonna buy myself a Dillon rapid trim 1200!! Im tired of trimming brass with a drill. Besides I have like 5000+ Pieces of once fired LC I got for free from work I need to process. Any one have any experiences with the RT1200?? I have heard some folks say you dont NEED to chamfer/de-burr after using it, though some say its a good idea, I just wanna know if its absolutely necassary. |
| When loading 308s I don't chamfer/de-burr, but only if loading boattailed bullets. You should also use the vacuum attachment and a shop vac to keep shavings off your press. The cutter cuts so clean and on a slight angle I don't find it absolutely neccessary for the under 200 yard shooting I do. |
I wouldn't take the chance. If you make a mistake, and leave a burr on .223 brass, your reloads can easily hang up on the AR's feed ramps. Trimming is a pain, IMHO, but necessary. I have had success using the RCBS X-Die which prevents the brass from growing past the maximum length. Trim to minimum, 1.740", set the X-Die's mandrell, size and deprime. For now on, the brass will not grow to the max, so no more trimming. My Dillon trimmer gets used about once a year on .223 brass before the X-Die does it's trick. It works well but I think a Gracie is probably better and a Giraud at ~$350 the cadillac of trimmers. Both Gracie and Giraud trimmer trim, champher, and deburr. The Dillon Trimmer works well but I *think* the extra money for a Gracie may be well spent. YMMV Spambo  |
|
I have a 550b the best thing that I got to go with it was more tool heads so I could change over quickly. I have a Dillon tumbler and really like it. Ive burned up one I got from Bi Mart. It was OK but kind of a lightweight. Don't remember the brand - it had a cannon on it. I built one from a thread on this site. That worked the best until the motor burned up. The Dillon is the best that I have had. Read a bunch of reloading manuals. Stay within safe limits. Shoot alot and load alot. that's the best way to get things down. |
| back to the single stage vs the dillon 550, if you have a friend to help you set up the 550 go with it thats were you will likely end up any way. Plan b start with the single stage then graduate, you will always find use for the single stage after you get the dillon. ---------------------he went into younder village and never returned |