Posted: 9/22/2014 5:21:52 PM EDT
|
My wife and I bought a new home in Hoschton, 4/2 ranch with a full basement on 1.1 acres. We are wanting to have a security system installed, especially because of the basement. I have no clue when it comes to home security systems. Plus any ideas on extras would be great. We have 3 dogs if that matters.
What features do I "need" or look for in a system. Really need keep it affordable. No contracts would be great but not a deal killer. |
Unfinished basement? Maybe something like this
I'd try to get something that would allow the 2x4 to be turned the other way for more strength. Is your builder going to pre wire for the alarm? If so, no need to go wireless for all the sensors. If you can have the house wired or even the alarm installed before sheet rock, you can likely save a god bit on labor costs. EMC Security has a good reputation in the area. Likely not the cheapest option though. |
|
I was thinking something like that for the doors but would also like some steel doors and frames so I can get in with a key if I need. I have a single door at the back and double doors on the side.
The home is not pre-wired but the basement is unfinished. I spoke to an electrician recently about adding motion lights around the house. BTW, I had the inspection done last week and he found a plugged/clogged/crimped A/C drain hose on the upstairs unit. It's a new style wall mount for a single room (bonus room above garage) with the compressor unit mounted next to the main comp on the side of house. Money well spent. I may have not found that for a long time and then have rotted frame issues or something. |
|
Quoted:
I was thinking something like that for the doors but would also like some steel doors and frames so I can get in with a key if I need. I have a single door at the back and double doors on the side. The home is not pre-wired but the basement is unfinished. I spoke to an electrician recently about adding motion lights around the house. BTW, I had the inspection done last week and he found a plugged/clogged/crimped A/C drain hose on the upstairs unit. It's a new style wall mount for a single room (bonus room above garage) with the compressor unit mounted next to the main comp on the side of house. Money well spent. I may have not found that for a long time and then have rotted frame issues or something. A similar thing just happened to a friend. But their inspector didn't find it... A nail from the siding went into the drain line. $50,000 and several months later their repairs are finally finished |
|
I got my wireless system from homesecuritystore.com. It cost me about $500 total. Instead of monitoring, I have the alarm call mine and the wife's cell phones directly.
Eta: here is the base system. I added more door/window sensors amd a glass break sensor. I use GSM with no land line. I pay $100 a year for a prepaid sim card. http://www.homesecuritystore.com/visonic-security-systems-ppo211 |
|
Quoted:
Check Into simply safe. I'm hearing good things about them. You own the equipment and no contract +1 www.simplisafe.com don't forget to put motion detectors in your garage |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Check Into simply safe. I'm hearing good things about them. You own the equipment and no contract +1 www.simplisafe.com don't forget to put motion detectors in your garage The Simplisafe unit looks pretty good, I already have a place to hide the base unit. Motion Detector in the garage is a good idea. |
|
I'm a UL certified security contractor. That being said, let me explain to you what I explain to all my customers;
A security system is a deterrent and something to give you time to assess an impending threat. It is not a way to keep people out, only slow them down. $99 ADT installs are laughable and completely inadequate. The Simpli Safe systems are ok for what they are, but also inadequate. The way I look at a system is simple; you need a dual mode motion (passive IR and microwave) in every room, including your garage, that covers every inch of a room from floor to 6' high, door contacts on all exterior doors, and some sort of interface between yourself and the system in case you are not home, i.e. an app for your phone that alerts you and will also allow you to arm and disarm from afar. Your neighbors may hate you but a couple of 150dB alarm horns mounted on the eaves of the house get everyone's attention should something happen. Burglars/Home Invaders don't like spectators. Monitoring a burglar alarm is fine and dandy, but the police respond slowly on purpose to alarm calls so the perps will be gone before they arrive. I have been called out on an alarm call and arrived before the police and I was 20 minutes away. They don't care about your stuff as much as getting home in one piece. Barricading a door is ok, but I could climb through a window a lot easier than busting down or through that door. I'm not saying don't barricade your basement door, just that a burglar usually looks for the path of least resistance. Maybe there are no windows, so you think you're good because you barred the door? I can take a sawzall and enter right next to it in about 1 minute without setting off a door sensor, but if you have a motion you got me. Odds are Leroy Criminal III will give up and find an easier access point if he finds the door to be a problem for him. I can go in depth into why I don't think glass break sensors are useful, and why you need dual mode motions as opposed to passive IR only, and will be glad to answer any questions or elaborate on this. The question is, do you want a perimeter intrusion detection system or a security system? |
|
Quoted: I'm a UL certified security contractor. That being said, let me explain to you what I explain to all my customers; A security system is a deterrent and something to give you time to assess an impending threat. It is not a way to keep people out, only slow them down. $99 ADT installs are laughable and completely inadequate. The Simpli Safe systems are ok for what they are, but also inadequate. The way I look at a system is simple; you need a dual mode motion (passive IR and microwave) in every room, including your garage, that covers every inch of a room from floor to 6' high, door contacts on all exterior doors, and some sort of interface between yourself and the system in case you are not home, i.e. an app for your phone that alerts you and will also allow you to arm and disarm from afar. Your neighbors may hate you but a couple of 150dB alarm horns mounted on the eaves of the house get everyone's attention should something happen. Burglars/Home Invaders don't like spectators. Monitoring a burglar alarm is fine and dandy, but the police respond slowly on purpose to alarm calls so the perps will be gone before they arrive. I have been called out on an alarm call and arrived before the police and I was 20 minutes away. They don't care about your stuff as much as getting home in one piece. Barricading a door is ok, but I could climb through a window a lot easier than busting down or through that door. I'm not saying don't barricade your basement door, just that a burglar usually looks for the path of least resistance. Maybe there are no windows, so you think you're good because you barred the door? I can take a sawzall and enter right next to it in about 1 minute without setting off a door sensor, but if you have a motion you got me. Odds are Leroy Criminal III will give up and find an easier access point if he finds the door to be a problem for him. I can go in depth into why I don't think glass break sensors are useful, and why you need dual mode motions as opposed to passive IR only, and will be glad to answer any questions or elaborate on this. The question is, do you want a perimeter intrusion detection system or a security system? |
|
Quoted:
I understand where your coming from. All alarm systems are inadequate, unless you have a armed guard who you can trust with your family/possessions. Which is very unlikely. Just like a safe thread anything is better than nothing. Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm a UL certified security contractor. That being said, let me explain to you what I explain to all my customers; A security system is a deterrent and something to give you time to assess an impending threat. It is not a way to keep people out, only slow them down. $99 ADT installs are laughable and completely inadequate. The Simpli Safe systems are ok for what they are, but also inadequate. The way I look at a system is simple; you need a dual mode motion (passive IR and microwave) in every room, including your garage, that covers every inch of a room from floor to 6' high, door contacts on all exterior doors, and some sort of interface between yourself and the system in case you are not home, i.e. an app for your phone that alerts you and will also allow you to arm and disarm from afar. Your neighbors may hate you but a couple of 150dB alarm horns mounted on the eaves of the house get everyone's attention should something happen. Burglars/Home Invaders don't like spectators. Monitoring a burglar alarm is fine and dandy, but the police respond slowly on purpose to alarm calls so the perps will be gone before they arrive. I have been called out on an alarm call and arrived before the police and I was 20 minutes away. They don't care about your stuff as much as getting home in one piece. Barricading a door is ok, but I could climb through a window a lot easier than busting down or through that door. I'm not saying don't barricade your basement door, just that a burglar usually looks for the path of least resistance. Maybe there are no windows, so you think you're good because you barred the door? I can take a sawzall and enter right next to it in about 1 minute without setting off a door sensor, but if you have a motion you got me. Odds are Leroy Criminal III will give up and find an easier access point if he finds the door to be a problem for him. I can go in depth into why I don't think glass break sensors are useful, and why you need dual mode motions as opposed to passive IR only, and will be glad to answer any questions or elaborate on this. The question is, do you want a perimeter intrusion detection system or a security system? That's true, and is the reason I asked the question of whether he wanted a security system or an intrusion detections system. When you install one on a military facility its an IDS (intrusion detection system). The MPs are the security system. 
|
|
Quoted:
I'm a UL certified security contractor. That being said, let me explain to you what I explain to all my customers; A security system is a deterrent and something to give you time to assess an impending threat. It is not a way to keep people out, only slow them down. $99 ADT installs are laughable and completely inadequate. The Simpli Safe systems are ok for what they are, but also inadequate. The way I look at a system is simple; you need a dual mode motion (passive IR and microwave) in every room, including your garage, that covers every inch of a room from floor to 6' high, door contacts on all exterior doors, and some sort of interface between yourself and the system in case you are not home, i.e. an app for your phone that alerts you and will also allow you to arm and disarm from afar. Your neighbors may hate you but a couple of 150dB alarm horns mounted on the eaves of the house get everyone's attention should something happen. Burglars/Home Invaders don't like spectators. Monitoring a burglar alarm is fine and dandy, but the police respond slowly on purpose to alarm calls so the perps will be gone before they arrive. I have been called out on an alarm call and arrived before the police and I was 20 minutes away. They don't care about your stuff as much as getting home in one piece. Barricading a door is ok, but I could climb through a window a lot easier than busting down or through that door. I'm not saying don't barricade your basement door, just that a burglar usually looks for the path of least resistance. Maybe there are no windows, so you think you're good because you barred the door? I can take a sawzall and enter right next to it in about 1 minute without setting off a door sensor, but if you have a motion you got me. Odds are Leroy Criminal III will give up and find an easier access point if he finds the door to be a problem for him. I can go in depth into why I don't think glass break sensors are useful, and why you need dual mode motions as opposed to passive IR only, and will be glad to answer any questions or elaborate on this. The question is, do you want a perimeter intrusion detection system or a security system? Great explanation. If someone has dogs/cats, how does that work with the motion sensors? Can they be "tuned" to look for certain sizes or shapes? |
|
Quoted: I'm a UL certified security contractor. That being said, let me explain to you what I explain to all my customers; A security system is a deterrent and something to give you time to assess an impending threat. It is not a way to keep people out, only slow them down. $99 ADT installs are laughable and completely inadequate. The Simpli Safe systems are ok for what they are, but also inadequate. The way I look at a system is simple; you need a dual mode motion (passive IR and microwave) in every room, including your garage, that covers every inch of a room from floor to 6' high, door contacts on all exterior doors, and some sort of interface between yourself and the system in case you are not home, i.e. an app for your phone that alerts you and will also allow you to arm and disarm from afar. Your neighbors may hate you but a couple of 150dB alarm horns mounted on the eaves of the house get everyone's attention should something happen. Burglars/Home Invaders don't like spectators. Monitoring a burglar alarm is fine and dandy, but the police respond slowly on purpose to alarm calls so the perps will be gone before they arrive. I have been called out on an alarm call and arrived before the police and I was 20 minutes away. They don't care about your stuff as much as getting home in one piece. Barricading a door is ok, but I could climb through a window a lot easier than busting down or through that door. I'm not saying don't barricade your basement door, just that a burglar usually looks for the path of least resistance. Maybe there are no windows, so you think you're good because you barred the door? I can take a sawzall and enter right next to it in about 1 minute without setting off a door sensor, but if you have a motion you got me. Odds are Leroy Criminal III will give up and find an easier access point if he finds the door to be a problem for him. I can go in depth into why I don't think glass break sensors are useful, and why you need dual mode motions as opposed to passive IR only, and will be glad to answer any questions or elaborate on this. The question is, do you want a perimeter intrusion detection system or a security system? I have a DSC "contractor grade" system that was put in when my house was built. I want to update it(brains and all if need be) and add dual mode motions, be able to monitor it from my smart phone, fire and smoke, etc, etc. Is that something you do or is there someone you can suggest?
|
|
To the dog/cats comment:
Yes, there are detectors that can distinguish a smaller heat signature as being a non intruder, but they're usually single mode and not as good at detection as a dual mode unless you want to get into the hundreds of dollars per motion price range. You can also run your system in "stay" mode; only the perimeter or certain points on the perimeter zone will set off an alarm, and that can be tailored to your specific situation/needs. For example, you could make your master bedroom/bath a stay zone while the rest of the house is on full time alarm setting when armed. I am not independent. I work for a company with multiple branches throughout Georgia and South Carolina. We sell and service Fire Alarm, CCTV, CATV, MATV, Security/IDS, Nurse Call, and Access Control systems. I myself am the security expert at our office but install/service the other systems as well. I also design/build/bid all of our security installs. Saying that ADT sucks is too general a statement. They cater to a non-discerning clientele that feels safe with minimal protection at a minimal price point; think dollar menu from Wendy's. Badeffect, it is probably something I could do but I would have to have some good info on what you have and what system you're running. We are a Honeywell/Ademco/Bosch/Hirsch dealer and that is what I am most familiar with. There are quite a few add ons you can buy commercially to do what you're looking for. Price is always an issue when I get to talking with people about those types of things, as they can get very expensive quickly. You could probably go with some of the wireless do it yourselfer type products to get app usable features like remote arm/disarm and notification of an alarm. Fire/smoke alarm integration is as simple as using an alarm contact on the panel and naming it fire alarm or smoke alarm. There are usually zones dedicated to initiation of other devices, or alarm inputs from other systems that can be used for what you're looking for. |