Posted: 6/27/2014 5:15:33 PM EDT
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I have an AR (my RRA) with a fixed forward sight (A2?) that I would like to get rid of (the sight, not the AR). I have a DD Omega quad rail on it that I'd also like to replace.
Is it worth paying a gunsmith to have it removed (and a new gas block installed I assume), or should I not bother and just sell this one and buy a new upper? |
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DJ, I just did the same on my AR....
If your replacement rail is longer than the gas block, you can pick up a $30 low-profile gas block and installed it yourself instead of paying a gunsmith to do it... I did have to take it to the local Bass Pro gunsmith to have him remove the gas block pins from my A2 sight (those were in there extremely tight, I broke 2 punches trying to get them out), and the guy did it in about 1 minute and did not charged me anything. If you really want a project, you can use a dremmel type tool and shave the sight only off the gas block... It's was actually a cool little project, and I am amazed how much a free float quad rail increases accuracy... Here's the before and after pics...(I went with a full length YHM diamond free float rail on my carbine length DS-15) 
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Quoted:
I have an AR (my RRA) with a fixed forward sight (A2?) that I would like to get rid of (the sight, not the AR). I have a DD Omega quad rail on it that I'd also like to replace. Is it worth paying a gunsmith to have it removed (and a new gas block installed I assume), or should I not bother and just sell this one and buy a new upper? . Method Number One: Use a Rotozip with the metal cutoff disk or a Dremel Tool. This is the cheapest and fastest way as you don't have to buy any new parts Method Number Two: Go Online and search YouTube for removing an A2 front sight and see if you want to go that route. It is easier then you think and if its not a far trip to Bass Pro Shops and they will take the pins out for you its even easier. I was able to do it following the YouTube video as I already had the new low profile gas block. Down side to using the Dremel is if you use a shorter rail it looks like hell IE you will be committing to rails long enough to always cover the front site post. |
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If you are near Macon and want to come by the shop on a Saturday I'll be happy to help, supervise and assist as much or as little as you want. Not a difficult job at all
PS...... I'll be in Indiana the weekend of the 4th with wife. Haven't gone home with her in ten years, guess it is time 
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Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm going to do some more research, but will probably not do it myself. (I am good at heavy lifting, move lots of dirt, etc. bulk work, but usually leave anything requiring finesse or patience to Mrs. DJ)
Took a few pics this morning. 
ETA - forgot to mention I am in the part of Somalia near Alpharetta. Thanks for the kind offer, Machinist. 
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DJ its not really a finesse job, its a pound the pins out job if you are not using a Dremel just to cut it off. I have seen a few people break punches because they are afraid to hit it hard enough the first few times (or they bought cheap punches). Of course some people break punches because they are not on the pin but half on the pin and half on the sight. The important part is to drive the pin out from the correct side just as the YouTube video shows. Sling loop rivet gets driven from the strong side (ejection port side) to the week side. Front Sight post roll pins get driven from the weak side to the strong side |
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Quoted:
If ya wanna make a road trip, We can knock it out in less than an hour and I'll let you test drive a DI AR45 Quoted:
If ya wanna make a road trip, We can knock it out in less than an hour and I'll let you test drive a DI AR45 
Thanks for the offer. We've got camping and a few other things in the immediate future, but I will keep this in mind. Quoted:
DJ its not really a finesse job, its a pound the pins out job if you are not using a Dremel just to cut it off. I have seen a few people break punches because they are afraid to hit it hard enough the first few times (or they bought cheap punches). Of course some people break punches because they are not on the pin but half on the pin and half on the sight. The important part is to drive the pin out from the correct side just as the YouTube video shows. Sling loop rivet gets driven from the strong side (ejection port side) to the week side. Front Sight post roll pins get driven from the weak side to the strong side Thanks also for the offer, and I responded to your IM. I don't have a dremel, but I do have an angle grinder with a cutting wheel I used to notch the skid plates on my Xterra. I may give that a go since I have no use for the site once its off. |
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Doug,
I was faced with the exact same thing about three years ago with my first Bushmaster. I sold the upper and took a beating on loss. There's nothing wrong with a RR, I'd either beat the pins out or just cut it off. A dremel isn't that expensive I don't think. ... |