Posted: 10/30/2013 7:00:48 PM EDT
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Decided to put a rail that I had laying around on my Spikes dedicated 22 upper. I have destroyed the barrel nut and it still will not budge. I am beginning to consider that they may have a left hand thread on the nut. I have heated the hell out of the nut and used kroil after if cooled down to try to penetrate the bond. No Luck... I started off with the DPMS barrel nut tool that engages about 2/3 of the teeth, put about 100ft-lbs on it and nothing. Moved to a hammer while holding tension on wrench. rounded off the barrel nut teeth and wrench no longer grips. next I use a YHM 3 pin tool that has always worked in the past and beat the hell out of that breaking off a few more teeth. Then pulled out the hardened punch and pounded the nut it until I took the remainder of a few more teeth. Heating the barrel nut in between these steps until it was a probably 3-400 degrees, knowing that if I heat the receiver up much more that that it will be screwed. Anyone else experience this? Any ideas? I always use the bigger hammer rule but I am using a pretty fucking big hammer on this one and obviously it is big enough to break off the teeth of the barrel nut. Thanks |
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I had the same issue on my spike's dedicated 22 upper. I t came with a pistol length yhm hg on it (I think, been a long time). It was so tight everything I tried just stripped. Ended up taking it to Semper fi arms. It ended up shattering when he finally got it loose.
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The nut came off, the key was kroil and heat. After soaking a day in kroil and as much heat as I could get on it with a propane torch it came off. Probably only took 30 ft-lbs to turn when it was really hot.
No damage to barrel or receiver. Thanks for the advice. I believe that locking compound was used. There was a grey colored compound in the threads that was liquid when I got the nut off. The kroil had probably dissolved whatever form it was in earlier. Spikes may use locking compound since there is no gas tube to let you know the nut is backing off. |