Posted: 3/8/2010 8:50:37 AM EDT
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I took my Spike's upper to the appleseed project this weekend. it comes with a YHM rail on it. this was the first time I have ever used it with a sling and it was mounted to the bottom of the rail.
well I was laying prone and really trying to get that sling nice and tight. when I tightened it up the entire rail rotated! the rail is screwed onto the barrel nut and has anti-rotating pins on it. so that mean the entire barrel nut started to back off. when I got home I took out the anti rotating pins and removed the HG. the barrel nut is snug but not 50-80lbs like I have found it's supposed to be. but the thing is there is no way I would be able to turn the nut so that it lines up with the next gas tube notch. so what do I do? I am afraid of turning the barrel nut and trying to force it to the next gas tube notch. I am sure I can get that wrench torqued down to 80lbs but doubt it will make it to the next hole with out shattering that barrel nut. Should I use loc-tite on it? will that help or bad idea? opinions? |
| I just installed a YHM handguard this weekend and the instructions didn't have any torque specs. They just said to hand tighten and then use the YHM barrel wrench to turn the nut to the next gas hole. On mine the next hole was right there so of course it wasn't tight enough so I used to wrench to turn it as far as I could then tightened and loosened until I could get it lined up. The wrench I have doesn't have any way to attach a torque wrench and the handle is short so you can't get much leverage. |
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I just installed a YHM handguard this weekend and the instructions didn't have any torque specs. They just said to hand tighten and then use the YHM barrel wrench to turn the nut to the next gas hole. On mine the next hole was right there so of course it wasn't tight enough so I used to wrench to turn it as far as I could then tightened and loosened until I could get it lined up. The wrench I have doesn't have any way to attach a torque wrench and the handle is short so you can't get much leverage. What part of Ga are you in? |
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well now I need a new barrel nut.....it didn't break or shadder any of the teeth, what it did do was stretch 3 of the holes and mess up the threads. I rest my case. I starting typing my other response while still reading this thread so didn't see THIS latest news from you until I hit submit. Frankly, that is why friends don't let friends buy garbage YHM crap rails. You couldn't give me one of those hunks of junk. Sorry to add salt to the wound. 
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thanks for the salt........it feels good.... please remember it's a .22! Yeah, but it is still a gun that you don't want the rail coming off. Right? Call YHM and tell them their piece of garbage nut broke and you need a replacement. I'll help you install if you need. |
| I have one on my 22 and it was all I could afford. But now I know that what has worked great for me and my son without issues is considered a piece of shit by stantards. Maybe I should have spent more on the rail and less to feed him. Then again what do I know? |
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I have one on my 22 and it was all I could afford. But now I know that what has worked great for me and my son without issues is considered a piece of shit by stantards. Maybe I should have spent more on the rail and less to feed him. Then again what do I know? If it works great and you like it then it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks of it. The YHM rails are decent but you do get what you pay for. They are a low cost, low end solution. Buy once cry once BUT don't overbuy. If the lesser product does the job go for it. Just don't complain when it doesn't perform like the better (but more expensive) products. 
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I will call them but I doubt this is something they will make right. but hey it's worth a shot! I will call tomorrow when they open and see what they have to say.
but Chris at Semper fi arms has saved the day. he has one in stock and will help install it for me tonight. |
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I just installed a YHM handguard this weekend and the instructions didn't have any torque specs. They just said to hand tighten and then use the YHM barrel wrench to turn the nut to the next gas hole. On mine the next hole was right there so of course it wasn't tight enough so I used to wrench to turn it as far as I could then tightened and loosened until I could get it lined up. The wrench I have doesn't have any way to attach a torque wrench and the handle is short so you can't get much leverage. What part of Ga are you in? This has probably been overcome by events, but In case you're still wondering I'm south of Warner Robins. |
| The only problem i've found with the yhm is the fact that the rails are a little close to the tube itself, not enough height on the rails, so a lot of accessories need to be filed a little on the top to fit, the Daniel Defense vfg for instance, fits every rail i have around but not on the yhm free float i have. The yhm works fine for me, but when i put together another rifle they won't be my first choice. |
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I know it is too late this time, but I installed the YHM diamond on my Spike's upper and the instructions said that if you could not get a hole to line up while staying in the torque specs, then machine the gas tube hole wider.
Sounds stupid, but the important take away is to not exceed the torque spec. |
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IMHO the correct solution is a properly sized shim to get it to index at proper torque and on a hole. Course that's easy for me to say. Bad day at the appleseed, eh? Just sand that sucker a little bit. 
I'm glad the barrel nuts can't be seen on my rifles.  I just wish I hadn't let the barrel slip in the (bare aluminum) vice blocks that time on two rifles...or had enough sense to clamp it on the barrel part that them good ol' handguards would have covered. 
Those receiver clamshell clamp thingies are the shizzle. It's the first thing to buy...at least buy one before getting a bench and a vice, or a pair of vice grips. 
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