Posted: 5/31/2007 1:27:34 PM EDT
| Does anyone know any good FAL smiths, preferably in the Atlanta area? Thanks. |
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This is what my buddy says- Cycling problem. Upon firing the bolt disconnects out of battery but does not come back far enough to eject. I feel like it is a gas problem because I have polished the chamber so I don't think it is a rough chamber issue. Also, the gas tube occasionally comes loose (obviously bad) so I want to replace or repair that. He had also mentioned a "handhuard retention ring" that may be worn. Any ideas? Thanks, again. |
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The gas tube shoud NOT come loose. If it is, it is possible that 1. The gas tube is not properly installed. 2. The gas tube to gas block threads are stripped on the gas tube because some one did not take out the gas tube retaining pin. 3. You don't have a gas tube retaing pin installed. 4. Do you know how to adjust the gas system on the rifle? 5. Is it a Century? Just where does your friend live? Buzz. |
stimpsonjcat knows his FALs. stimsonjcat, you going to shoot the RBGC 3 gun on the 30th and the SRGC on the 1st of July? 
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f. Gas System Installation Inspect your components! This cannot be overstressed. When fully assembled, the gas tube's rotation in the gas block is arrested by a small pin driven through a hole in the gas block. This pin is only visible if the gas adjustment ring is almost completely unscrewed from the gas block. With the pin removed, the threaded portion of the gas tube readily screws into and out of the gas block. When the pin is installed, the gas tube requires a great deal of effort to turn. Unfortunately, many rifles have had the gas tube forcibly removed with the pin in place by those unaware of its presence. The result is that the threads at the front of the gas tube are compressed leading to a stepped, worn appearance. This adversely affects function in the following ways: The gas tube is no longer held firmly in place by the pin, and may rotate. This can cause the gas port to close regardless of the gas adjustment ring setting. The gas piston may bind in the tube, which may have been slightly narrowed at the front. The gas tube may no longer provide an effective seal in the gas block resulting in gas blow by and failures to function. A BAD gas tube:  A GOOD gas tube:  If you see evidence of this "gas tube abuse," your best bet is to order a new gas tube. A second point of inspection is to make sure that the gas tube retaining pin is included with your kit. If not, don't worry. A 1/2" length of 5/64" roll pin works just fine as a replacement. Our first step was to screw the gas adjustment ring onto the gas block. This part goes on with the stepped edge of the ring forward. Next the gas adjustment ring spring (the small U-shaped piece of wire with bent-in tips) was muscled into position. Note that there are two small troughs on the sides of the gas block for the spring's arms, and two small holes for the tips. Then we backed the gas ring off until the gas tube retaining pin hole was visible on both sides of the gas block. The gas tube, with the rear bushing/support was then screwed into the gas block as far as it would go, and the rear bushing/support into the receiver. (Note that the ease or lack thereof of screwing the rear bushing into the receiver is an indication of how well the barrel and receiver are indexed.) The gas piston, spring, and plug were then installed. Next, we looked down at the gas port and slowly unscrewed the gas tube until we could see the silver gas piston completely filling the port (1/8 to 1/2 turn). While holding the tube in this position, the gas tube retaining pin was gently tapped into place and seated with a pin punch. Finally, the gas adjustment ring was screwed all the way on, and then backed up to the fully "open" position to insure that the gas tube retaining pin wasn't binding. Pictures and text were "borrowed" from www.cruffler.com/trivia-April01-assembly.html An old but very informative site for Fal's  Hope this helps. Buzz. |
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