Posted: 12/23/2008 11:11:34 AM EDT
Just wanted to say hello to all my fellow MO arfcommers. I have a DPMS Sportical that has a horrible trigger on it. I thought I saw on here that someone in Washington could do one or should I just send it to Bill Springfield? I was going to buy a good drop in trigger group but I just had to fork out almost 2 grand yesterday for a new well pump.
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hate to hijack the thread, but i was looking for something similar for my dads ruger P95 and my G26. is there any way to make the trigger pull shorter? the force required is fine, but the actual length of the pull is annoyingly long on both guns. thanks! If I where you, I'd go to a local Gun Shop and ask the Gunsmith how much he charges to smooth them out. |
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2manyhobbies: You can polish certain parts of the stock trigger in that AR to make it much slicker, without compromising the reliability of the military style single-stage trigger. Otherwise, go with an aftermarket two-stage such as a Rock River, but IMHO with the two-stages "you rolls your dice and you takes your chances."
killercamaro: There's no way to adjust the length of pull on a Glock without seriously compromising reliability. This is the nature of striker fired guns. I've heard that there is a guy who can reduce length of pull and reset on the Smith M&P series, but supposedly its really expensive and he has a long wait list regardless. What I would recommend is the old standby "25 cent" Glock trigger job, which is basically figuring out where the metal parts rub against each other and polishing them without eating into the metal, and installing a 3.5lb disconnect. This slicks up the Glock action very nicely. As far as length of pull, learn the Glock's reset and you'll only have to worry about it on the first shot. The Glock has one of the best resets in the world, only slightly behind the Walther P99AS and 1911 in terms of the reset length and weight. Remember that if you are using the reset the firing pin block is continually held out of the way, so you don't have to fight it like you do on the first part of a full trigger pull. 25 cent Glock trigger job |
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Here is what you do to a Glock Trigger.....
Leave it the fuck alone. 
That will be $75 please! As for a "Horrible" AR trigger? Never encountered one that was that bad! You can do a little to the AR trigger but it is fair to midland as it is, without help. The RRA trigger that I put in the Tack driver (even though I shot hellishly tight groups with it with a stock AR trigger pack) is just fine and I understand the CMMG trigger is pretty nice too. |
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I'll hijack a little bit. OK, noob here so don't flame to hard just yet, I have a Del-Ton lower and upper with all the trimmings which my wife picked up for me as a Christmas gift. First, what exactly is a two-stage trigger? I have a fairly long gritty stroke on the Del-Ton out of the box. I am good trying to polish it up, I'm sure it will smooth out on it's own, but if I can help it a little, I'd like to. How do I determine if I have a two-stage trigger? Is it just as simple as polishing the sear and trigger surfaces? |
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Quoted:
I'll hijack a little bit. OK, noob here so don't flame to hard just yet, I have a Del-Ton lower and upper with all the trimmings which my wife picked up for me as a Christmas gift. First, what exactly is a two-stage trigger? I have a fairly long gritty stroke on the Del-Ton out of the box. I am good trying to polish it up, I'm sure it will smooth out on it's own, but if I can help it a little, I'd like to. How do I determine if I have a two-stage trigger? Is it just as simple as polishing the sear and trigger surfaces? Here is a good thread to read. It should be very helpful. LINK |
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The "Two Stage" really has a certain amount of "free travel" before it stops then crisply breaks. the stock trigger is a Single Stage, you squeeze and it is the same until it crisply breaks. I don't understand "Gritty" look in there, is there "Grit" in it? if so get some brake cleaner from the parts store and flush the crap out of it, then add a few drops of light oil to the mechanism. See if that gets rid of the "Grit" I hear people say this all the time, usually it is due to the machined surfaces not being worn in just yet.
Take the gun out and shoot it, dry fire it, drill with it and get to know it, you are both new, you don't know each other yet. Because the trigger group in the weapon doesn't feel like the hand lapped parts in a one of a kind match rifle doesn't mean the trigger is a "problem" most of the time "trigger jobs" are a crutch for "Cant Shoot" The trigger would have to be REALLY bad like say a Nagant pistol? or a great many Makarovs, Those are BAD triggers. Light doesn't equal "good" it still needs to break crisply, I can accept a Heavy trigger as long as it is not creepy and breaks crisply. Smith&Wesson has a line of snubbies that have the most horrible creepy triggers.. Very heavy. I know a woman who bought one at the recommendation of a police officer the first time she took it to the range she asked me to show her how to shoot it. Apparently a lack of trust in the advisor... She couldn't even pull the damned trigger! I could operate the pistol but the trigger was stupid heavy!!! The recommendation of the gun shop? Oh well we can do a trigger job on it for $$$$ You have got to be shitting me? I hate people like that!!! It was not a problem with the pistol, it was supposed to be that way. I shoot a Glock with the stockest of stock triggers... I have shot a NY trigger glock with that "Horrible Heavy Trigger" yeah, well I shot it just as well as my 5# trigger, a 3.5 is a crutch!  Just wait until the ones I KNOW will show up here saying that I am Wrong... 
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Quoted:
hate to hijack the thread, but i was looking for something similar for my dads ruger P95.... You're pretty much SOL on that Ruger P95. Best you can do is strip it down, polish the contact points of the trigger assembly and put some good trigger lube on those same points. It's always gonna be heavy and long, with a ton of reset travel. |
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Quoted:
2manyhobbies: You can polish certain parts of the stock trigger in that AR to make it much slicker, without compromising the reliability of the military style single-stage trigger. Otherwise, go with an aftermarket two-stage such as a Rock River, but IMHO with the two-stages "you rolls your dice and you takes your chances." killercamaro: There's no way to adjust the length of pull on a Glock without seriously compromising reliability. This is the nature of striker fired guns. I've heard that there is a guy who can reduce length of pull and reset on the Smith M&P series, but supposedly its really expensive and he has a long wait list regardless. What I would recommend is the old standby "25 cent" Glock trigger job, which is basically figuring out where the metal parts rub against each other and polishing them without eating into the metal, and installing a 3.5lb disconnect. This slicks up the Glock action very nicely. As far as length of pull, learn the Glock's reset and you'll only have to worry about it on the first shot. The Glock has one of the best resets in the world, only slightly behind the Walther P99AS and 1911 in terms of the reset length and weight. Remember that if you are using the reset the firing pin block is continually held out of the way, so you don't have to fight it like you do on the first part of a full trigger pull. 25 cent Glock trigger job When you install the disconnector, use the Ghost Rocket. It significantly reduces the (already short) Glock reset. Full kit: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=24837&title=ROCKET%203.5%20TRIGGER%20KIT%20for%20GLOCK~ Part Only: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1619&title=TRIGGER%20CONNECTOR%20for%20GLOCK~ Bill Springfield does decent work, and a local gunsmith can probably do it also. I would install an aftermarket SINGLE stage trigger, like the JP: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=7585&st=&s= The best AR trigger is the new American Gold: http://www.americantrigger.com/ The American trigger is drop-in, sort of like the McCormick, but it works. |
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Quoted:
hate to hijack the thread, but i was looking for something similar for my dads ruger P95 and my G26. is there any way to make the trigger pull shorter? the force required is fine, but the actual length of the pull is annoyingly long on both guns. thanks! Take Glock. Walk towards nearest trash recepticle. Insert Glock. Proceed to Firearms Dealer of Choice. Purchase new Beretta or Springfield. 
by the way.... 
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hate to hijack the thread, but i was looking for something similar for my dads ruger P95.... You're pretty much SOL on that Ruger P95. Best you can do is strip it down, polish the contact points of the trigger assembly and put some good trigger lube on those same points. It's always gonna be heavy and long, with a ton of reset travel. Mike polished up the p95 i had and it got allot better, but then i never did shoot that gun much and traded it off as fast as i got it. Ronald. |
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Blah blah blah blah, harps on Glock triggers then touts Beretta and Springfield triggers.  
You slay me.
I can't really complain about my Beretta trigger either, it is not stiff or rough it is smooth and breaks crisp. long travel and reset but I worked through that with the gun. |