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AR15.COM
9/9/2007 4:30:25 PM EDT
Prior to my RRA LAR-15 Carbine (started with a lower kit, just to see if I could do it), I've only shot with a previously fired M-16A2 (or A1 in the USAF).  I never had any trouble sighting in the military's rifle.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to get out and fire my new carbine (16" midlength, chrome lined barrel) with iron sights. Every shot from the first shot hit the paper (copy of the Army's M4 target) from ~25 meters.  However, it took just over 100 rounds to get settled in to the point that I could fire decent groups all on the silhouette.

I admit, I was excited at first, (and from the start shots were in groups spread around a quadrant of the page), so some of inconsistency could have just been me.

So the question is, was this normal break in experience? First spray all over, then settle into decent groups all on target after ~100 rounds?

FWIW, I fired a variety of ammo. 20rds of Wolf functioned just fine. Best groups (after things settled in) came from Federal American Eagle 55gr FMJBT rounds, worst was Black Hills 68gr Heavy Match HP from a Blue Box.  Black Hills 60Gr V-Max Moly (blue box) and PMC Bronze 55Gr FMJBT were pretty OK too.

Damn, this is going to be an expensive pass time...
9/10/2007 5:07:16 AM EDT
[#1]
First thing is familiarization with any tool takes time!

Then the next suggestion is that you not use moly coated bullets.  Essentially moly coated bullets are something you stick with.  Moly layer over with copper fouling is not a good idea.  Either shoot Naked bullets or shoot moly all the time.  For a highvolume shooter such as Highpower Competitor or varmint hunter, moly may have some merits.
But for self defense and other applications moly is not good thing!

This is from BM about bbl break in
What is the proper "break-in" procedure for a chrome lined AR barrel?

After firing a couple hundred rounds, the chrome lining will "polish out" from its light, flat gray, factory-new look to a brightly reflective, polished appearance. During this break-in period, excessive cleaning with solvent or brush should be avoided as that will only prolong the time (and number of rounds) it takes to achieve the final "bullet polishing" of the barrel.

9/10/2007 11:00:34 AM EDT
[#2]
height=8
Quoted:
First thing is familiarization with any tool takes time!


Truer words were never spoken. Overall, I'm quite familiar with the basic AR15/M16 family. Tis true this is a new weapon and barrel set up to me.

height=8
Quoted:Then the next suggestion is that you not use moly coated bullets.  Essentially moly coated bullets are something you stick with.  Moly layer over with copper fouling is not a good idea.  Either shoot Naked bullets or shoot moly all the time.  For a highvolume shooter such as Highpower Competitor or varmint hunter, moly may have some merits.
But for self defense and other applications moly is not good thing!


This is a do it all carbine for me; paper, plinking, varmits, defense, etc. The advice on moly coat is duely noted. Thank you.

height=8
Quoted:This is from BM about bbl break in
What is the proper "break-in" procedure for a chrome lined AR barrel?

After firing a couple hundred rounds, the chrome lining will "polish out" from its light, flat gray, factory-new look to a brightly reflective, polished appearance. During this break-in period, excessive cleaning with solvent or brush should be avoided as that will only prolong the time (and number of rounds) it takes to achieve the final "bullet polishing" of the barrel.

A review of the forums using the search function showed that there is little agreement on break in method. So I chose the "go out and shoot it" method. As stated in my earlier post, I fired 120+ rounds the first time out. I zeroed as I went, final zero came on the last 20 rounds. The last 10 or so all in the black silhouette.

My real question is more of, "how many rounds can I expect to fire before the rifle/rifle barrel is 'broken in' or rather firing in precise groups?" A follow up is "Is my ~100+ rounds to get to a precise fire group similar to what others have experienced?

I cleaned the bolt and chamber last night (using CLP and USGI brush and a few QTIP brand swabs). I did not clean the barrel. Nothing too suprising. All the carbon/copper/brass cleaned easily (even on the firing pin base). A look down the barrel showed that the burrs noted on some of the rifling prior to firing are all gone.

m22723, thanks for your reply, I appriciate your input.
9/12/2007 4:44:36 AM EDT
[#3]

how many rounds can I expect to fire before the rifle/rifle barrel is 'broken in' or rather firing in precise groups?" A follow up is "Is my ~100+ rounds to get to a precise fire group similar to what others have experienced?


Alot of it will depend on caliber (throat erosion is greater on a 300winmag than on a 223), type of bullet (cast vs. jacketed), rate of fire (full auto vs. 10rds/min), and cleaning procedures (copper solvent using patches instead of a steel brush). And lastly, the type of barrel material (chrome lines vs. stainless)

A .223 chambered rifle should "break in" relatively quickly. Over the first 300 rounds with proper care, you should see the groups "settle". This is a guess at what your barrel might be like. (mine took about 350 with a stainless bull barrel)

A good cleaning with a copper solvent after a shoot and then a follow up with Kroil will help to keep you barrel in good shape.
9/12/2007 7:56:45 AM EDT
[#4]
Thanks for the reply.