Posted: 4/29/2015 6:14:32 AM EDT
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I am refinishing a set of MAK 90 furniture. I've noticed that once the original shellac is removed, the wood seems to have a gray tint to it. Is this normal? I've always had the notion that Chu wood was a blonde, almost white color naturally...
Thanks in advance! |
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Quoted:
I am refinishing a set of MAK 90 furniture. I've noticed that once the original shellac is removed, the wood seems to have a gray tint to it. Is this normal? I've always had the notion that Chu wood was a blonde, almost white color naturally... Thanks in advance! I'm just gonna throw this out there....if you replace the wood with IWD wood you can get it very close to the chu wood look with amber shellac and some red dye. It also counts as American parts for 922r. But to answer your question, I haven't herd anything about stripping original chu wood. Most people would probably prefer to keep them original than refinish it. What did you use to strip the wood? Could have effected it somehow... |
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I'm just gonna throw this out there....if you replace the wood with IWD wood you can get it very close to the chu wood look with amber shellac and some red dye. It also counts as American parts for 922r. But to answer your question, I haven't herd anything about stripping original chu wood. Most people would probably prefer to keep them original than refinish it. What did you use to strip the wood? Could have effected it somehow... Quoted:
Quoted:
I am refinishing a set of MAK 90 furniture. I've noticed that once the original shellac is removed, the wood seems to have a gray tint to it. Is this normal? I've always had the notion that Chu wood was a blonde, almost white color naturally... Thanks in advance! I'm just gonna throw this out there....if you replace the wood with IWD wood you can get it very close to the chu wood look with amber shellac and some red dye. It also counts as American parts for 922r. But to answer your question, I haven't herd anything about stripping original chu wood. Most people would probably prefer to keep them original than refinish it. What did you use to strip the wood? Could have effected it somehow... I think I should have probably set the originals aside, and ordered new ones. I'm going to sand the furniture with some 600 grit, and try shellac this afternoon...we'll see how it goes! Thanks in any event... Tom |
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What did you use to strip the wood. If you use an acid you may need to neutralize it. Shellac removes with denatured alcohol and a scotchbrite pad.
I bought a surplus MAK90 stock, a used wood grip and reused the hand guards. I stripped all of the wood of their finish. The pistol grip ended up a greyish color. I used bleach to lighten the wood. Then a used Minwax "Gunstock" stain one the pieces. Had to play with amount of time before wiping and how many coats to get all the woods to match. Once I had the color how I liked it I used Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. This looks great and holds up better than shellac. On my NHM-91 I used a New surplus laminated RPK stock, used Russian or Bulgarian laminated hand guard and a bakelite pistol grip. The hand guard had to be modified to fit. careful work with wood chisels The stock had to have some material removed to fit the Chinese receiver. Again a sharp wood chisel and just shave it. I stripped the shellac of the wood. I had to bleach the hand guards to lighten the wood as it was a grey color and the stock was a light color. I used the gunstock stain to get the pieces to match exactly. Then a few coats of Tru Oil and they look great. |
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+1. Good answer
Lots of times some of the aggressive strippers out there will turn wood a grey color. IT's only skin deep, however, and if you sand lightly with, say, 180 stearated paper, you'll get back to the brighter color that was under the shellac. Can I ask what you used to strip that stock? Did you use paint stripper from a spray can? As Edge said, denatured alcohol (or ANY good alcohol for that matter) will remove shellac down to bare wood with little effort. Shellac also comes in a rainbow of colors from ruby red to water clear. What you'll find on the shelf will be amber or "clear" in a can which can be thinned for spraying or just spread on with a fine brush. Rome |
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I used a spray-on stripper, and I suspect you guys are right, that was the culprit. I sanded the stocks down a bit, and that helped. I'm going to use Tru-oil to improve the look a bit, but the furniture will have to be replaced at some point. In any event, I know for next time...Thanks, gents!
Tom |
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I used a spray-on stripper, and I suspect you guys are right, that was the culprit. I sanded the stocks down a bit, and that helped. I'm going to use Tru-oil to improve the look a bit, but the furniture will have to be replaced at some point. In any event, I know for next time...Thanks, gents! Tom The Chinese Chu wood is on the more delicate side when it comes to wood. Dings and dents will be normal from use. It wasnt meant to look pretty, after some use. But on a display rifle(little or no use) it looks unbelievable. Like I posted above, guys have found that if you get the Bullseye Amber Shellac, then add some red RIT dye to it, you will get it very close to the original color. Supposedly shellac is what was used on the original wood, and it was applied pretty badly if you look closely. |
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I used a spray-on stripper, and I suspect you guys are right, that was the culprit. I sanded the stocks down a bit, and that helped. I'm going to use Tru-oil to improve the look a bit, but the furniture will have to be replaced at some point. In any event, I know for next time...Thanks, gents! Tom Don't toss the wood. Like Cabinetman said lightly sand it. Use some bleach and soak the wood in that. Then use a little stain to make it the color you want and then once the color is good use some Tru Oil. You will have a beautiful set of wood. A little bit of work and you will have a gorgeous set. Where are you located? I am glad to take it and do them for you. |
