Posted: 1/23/2011 6:24:06 PM EDT
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Im kinda new to all this, I have been following AR15.com for a while but I havent posted much. But I have a question to ask of the Reno guys. I have purchased a bunch of new AR stuff, two of the parts being a LaRue scope mount and Leupold scope. I have never mounted a scope in rings before and do not own any material for leveling the cross hairs or know how to do it. Is it pretty simple if you pick up a kit from Cabelas or someplace else? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. If it is not very simple is there someone out there willing to help me mount the optic or can you suggest a shop to do it? I have not received the parts yet, just getting excited for them and want to be prepared to do the work when they arrive.
Thanks in advance for any tips/help. |
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Quoted:
Im kinda new to all this, I have been following AR15.com for a while but I havent posted much. But I have a question to ask of the Reno guys. I have purchased a bunch of new AR stuff, two of the parts being a LaRue scope mount and Leupold scope. I have never mounted a scope in rings before and do not own any material for leveling the cross hairs or know how to do it. Is it pretty simple if you pick up a kit from Cabelas or someplace else? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. If it is not very simple is there someone out there willing to help me mount the optic or can you suggest a shop to do it? I have not received the parts yet, just getting excited for them and want to be prepared to do the work when they arrive. Thanks in advance for any tips/help. What kind of engineer are you? |
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Here's what I've done...............
AR with bi-pod : 1 extend both legs equally. 2 set on table, mount scope, leaving scope movable in the rings. 3 now open curtain, look out window at neighbor's house through scope...set eye relief by moving the scope forward or back. 4 now take the vertical cross-hair and line it up with the side of your neighbor's house.....street signs, power-poles, and fence post are not always plumb ! 4 tighten screws. This is "The Git'er Done" way  ..........but it gets you damm close !!
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| I use a line level as it's small and handy. First level the rifle on a backpack, sandbags, etc and then level the cross-hairs as most scopes have some flat surface on it. Usually on the top turret. That way both the rifle and the scope are level. Or at least level enough for my purposes. |
A plumb line is also a good way. Using DB&G's process except instead of using a house, use a string with a weight attached to the bottom and hang it from the ceiling or something alike. both will get you damn close and one won't have the neighbors looking at you funny!! 
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| Most of us just eyeball it. If you really have an issue doing it, I will meet up with you and help ya. For the most part, you aren't going to know the difference until you become a world class shooter and if it's far enough off until then, you will be able to see it with the naked eye. |
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Get a set of feeler gauges. It will absolutely level the scope to the rail. Loosen the rings slightly, get the feeler gauges to the correct thickness and then slide them between the scope bottom (flat spot) and the rail. Slowly begin tightening the rings down. Just don't tighten them completely, or you'll not be able to remove the feeler gauges.
It works like a champ. |
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Quoted: not quite an engineer, graduate in may. I am getting my BS in mining engineering at UNR. Where the FAWK is UNR? Didn't they teach you what college you were graduating from?  I put mine on a little 22 and just eyeballed it to being level...didn't think of using the window/fence post/ACTUAL LEVEL to check it.
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I have always just eyeballed it.
You can buy a level that attaches to the rail and use that to level the gun. Then use a plumb to level the scope. Quoted:
Get a set of feeler gauges. It will absolutely level the scope to the rail. Loosen the rings slightly, get the feeler gauges to the correct thickness and then slide them between the scope bottom (flat spot) and the rail. Slowly begin tightening the rings down. Just don't tighten them completely, or you'll not be able to remove the feeler gauges. It works like a champ. I am having trouble visualizing this |
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Quoted:
Harbor freight $5 bucks. Use it to level the rifle in a vise or stand, then use it on the top turret to level it on the rifle. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_277.jpg  ........cant get much simpler than that !!
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Harbor freight $5 bucks. Use it to level the rifle in a vise or stand, then use it on the top turret to level it on the rifle. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_277.jpg ........cant get much simpler than that !!I loosely mount the scope in the rings, find the right eye relief and use a pencil to put a mark on the scope where it contacts the ring. Remove scope (unless you can get to a flat portion of the rail with scope installed) and level the rifle in a sandbags, vice, etc. with a bubble level on the rail/scope base. Put scope on to proper relief distance then put the level on the top turret cap and level scope. Takes out any operator error if you are holding the rifle with a cant and trying to shoulder it and level it. |