Posted: 11/21/2013 7:15:58 AM EDT
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I just bought a MAC 10 and need it (upper/lower) reparked.
Any ideas? I am looking for cheap because it is a shooter nothing collectable. Thanks for any ideas/leads. V OUT |
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Gun Garage
I use this guy for all my refinishing. Great guy & great service. Scenic drive. 
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We'll see how it goes....
Link to parkerizing concentrate V OUT |
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I do my own Parkerizing using my own WECSOG "Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing" type of setups and solutions like that. My first Parkerizing job was a M1919 I did in a turkey fryer. 
I actually find it rewarding. Prep work is so important. I like bead blasting rather than sand blasting as it gives a nice finish (not too smooth yet not so rough). I did it once after sandblasting and the finish reminded me of 60 grit sandpaper. Make sure it is absolutely degreased too. Even fingerprints will mess it up. I use brake cleaner, then simple green, then parkerize. |
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Quoted:
I do my own Parkerizing using my own WECSOG "Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing" type of setups and solutions like that. My first Parkerizing job was a M1919 I did in a turkey fryer.
I actually find it rewarding. Prep work is so important. I like bead blasting rather than sand blasting as it gives a nice finish (not too smooth yet not so rough). I did it once after sandblasting and the finish reminded me of 60 grit sandpaper. Make sure it is absolutely degreased too. Even fingerprints will mess it up. I use brake cleaner, then simple green, then parkerize. Quoted:
I do my own Parkerizing using my own WECSOG "Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing" type of setups and solutions like that. My first Parkerizing job was a M1919 I did in a turkey fryer.
I actually find it rewarding. Prep work is so important. I like bead blasting rather than sand blasting as it gives a nice finish (not too smooth yet not so rough). I did it once after sandblasting and the finish reminded me of 60 grit sandpaper. Make sure it is absolutely degreased too. Even fingerprints will mess it up. I use brake cleaner, then simple green, then parkerize. What if I park over the existing park? V OUT |
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Quoted:
What if I park over the existing park? V OUT Quoted:
Quoted:
I do my own Parkerizing using my own WECSOG "Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing" type of setups and solutions like that. My first Parkerizing job was a M1919 I did in a turkey fryer.
I actually find it rewarding. Prep work is so important. I like bead blasting rather than sand blasting as it gives a nice finish (not too smooth yet not so rough). I did it once after sandblasting and the finish reminded me of 60 grit sandpaper. Make sure it is absolutely degreased too. Even fingerprints will mess it up. I use brake cleaner, then simple green, then parkerize. What if I park over the existing park? V OUT It depends. If you're doing the park as a base coat for something like a final coat of moly resin or cera kote or something like that, then go ahead. Or if it's for an internal or non-visible part, you'll be OK. If the Parkerizing is being used as a final finish, I'd strongly recommend against it. I'm assuming that the reason you asked is because you have a part that still has Parkerizing but has some worn or exposed metal areas. I've tried that before and what will happen is that the worn areas will take on either a darker or lighter color than the existing park dependent on the type of park your using. The type you linked to above is a zinc Parkerizing which is on the lighter side vs. a manganese park which is the darker stuff. If at all possible, I'd really consider gently bead blasting off the old park and refinishing from bare metal. You'll be much happier with the final results. |
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So now...who bead blasts? LOL V OUT And that's the $64,000 Question....Being in the Milwaukee area, I'm fortunate enough to be able to DIY at this place in Butler. http://www.u-spray.com/services/doityourself.php I don't know who else or where else you could go to have it done. If all else fails, just parkerize it over the park and see how it turns out, you may be happy with it. If not, you'll still be able to use the solution again. If it isn't satisfactory, you'll just be blasting it off which is what you would have done in the first place anyways. |
| If you have a compressor a small blast cabinet is nice to have. Aluminum oxide is not cheap but you can reuse it if you degrease your parts well before blasting. I got a great deal on my cabinet, it literally fell off the truck and bent all 4 legs. I put it on a metal cart and roll it outside when I blast. |