Posted: 7/12/2010 7:34:29 AM EDT
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What would stand up the best?
I know a little bit about, and used both Dura-coat and KG gunkote. From what I understand, air cure finishes aren't as tough. Please correct me if I'm wrong here. What about anodizing? Is there a type3 anodizing hardcoat in FDE? Will it stand up as well as the black anodizing? I would really appreciate any pics of carbines that have been through a few courses. |
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The upper and lower reciever and barrel I duracoated in Blackhawk coyote tan.
I have been thru a few training classes with this weapon have at least 3500 rounds thru it. I am left handed and the scratches around the the forward asist are from rubbing on magazines on my chest rig. The brass deflector will also show wear. The barrel still looks like the day I painted it. I thought that barrel heat would cause it to discolor or flake off. That has not happened at all. 
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Cera cote is really amazingly durable but not high temperature. So it depends on what you are painting.
Alumatech industries in brookfield does FDE anodizing for mags if I'm not mistaken. I don't see why a course should be hard on a finish. The gun is getting fired. Most wear takes place in vehicles or inside a turret shield or on urban patrols for long distances where the weapon is getting contact with magazines or web gear and the guy is tired and doesn't care if the gun is resting or brushing against a magazine or something at the low ready. |
Heres one that has a few courses under it's belt.. notice the Krylon wore on the stock and other places over time...
Know how I fixed it??? More Krylon... 
I don't waste my time with expensive finishes.... you should see what my cordless drill looks like.. yet it's well maintained and works reliably... |
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When we/I (US military) started painting guns for various operations in the late 1990s, it was strictly for camoflauge.
We had numerous vendors approach us during ANMExpo (I know the name has changed - similar to civillian SHOT) and explain they redefined durability with...add their company name. Endstate; it is ALL paint unless there is a chemical change (like rusting or bluing, whatever you want to call it because it is the same thing). So in closing, it is all paint. No more, no less. I have been exposed to all of it and the military promotes none of it because it all wears because it is paint. Parkerizing is best with liquid film lubricant touch up if you can find it anymore (if you find a source, let me know). Best of luck with your decision... V OUT |
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thank you 3xpert and harv for your pics
thanks everyone else for weighing in on this topic. i'm thinking about that aluma-hyde in the dark earth. it's actually closer to coyote brown than what they market as coyote. i was hoping someone with some knowledge of anodizing was gonna pop in. word is is that pat rogers is doing a t&e of a bravo lower anodized in FDE. i'm very much looking forward to what pat has to say. i've read that black is the most durable type 3 hard coating and that FDE doesn't stand up as well. this is why i'm thinking about coating a black set of receivers. |
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Quoted:
thank you 3xpert and harv for your pics thanks everyone else for weighing in on this topic. i'm thinking about that aluma-hyde in the dark earth. it's actually closer to coyote brown than what they market as coyote. i was hoping someone with some knowledge of anodizing was gonna pop in. word is is that pat rogers is doing a t&e of a bravo lower anodized in FDE. i'm very much looking forward to what pat has to say. i've read that black is the most durable type 3 hard coating and that FDE doesn't stand up as well. this is why i'm thinking about coating a black set of receivers. Anodizing? Go with a hard coat anodize from US Anodizing. (See http://www.usanodizing.com/ for more information.) That's what many guys with non-collector / shooter transferable M16s use to protect their lowers. You may also be able to do some sort of extra finish over the hard coat, but I'd check with US Anodizing first to see if that's recommended or even advisable. Mike |