Posted: 2/9/2009 1:53:20 AM EDT
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The Bushwacker ended up testing within a tenth of a DB of two of what are pretty much considered two of the three quietest silencers in the US right now.
I can't really say much more because it's in a forum where people are supposed to pay to see results. I can say that both silencers were $200 more expensive or more. People on other sites who make similar silencers 5 DB's louder that cost $150 more say it's ugly. I'm ok with that. The cans are starting to ship. So transfers are getting approved. |
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The Bushwacker ended up testing within a tenth of a DB of two of what are pretty much considered two of the three quietest silencers in the US right now. I can't really say much more because it's in a forum where people are supposed to pay to see results. I can say that both silencers were $200 more expensive or more. People on other sites who make similar silencers 5 DB's louder that cost $150 more say it's ugly. I'm ok with that. The cans are starting to ship. So transfers are getting approved. So they are like glocks, ugly but they work  
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http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/auto/template.jsp?searchcode=HOT&product=HotPaint
This is the paint to use to finish the cans if you guys were wondering. The melonite QPQ failed it warped cans and was not impervious to some chemicals. I got some of the black 1500 degree paint at carquest and finished three cans- you make a coat hanger hook with one end about .5" tall less than .464" wide and it will hang the can by the rear cap to the oven rack. The paint went on nice and thin without affecting engraving and cured hard- you wipe some like soot off after the whole process is finished, and it leaves a hard slightly shiny black finish similar to an oiled and dried AR reciever. It looks like AAC's old SCARMOR finish, and obviously it's impervious to temps of up to 1500 degrees. KAC uses Norell Moly resin for the M4QD silencers in the SOPMOD kit. It looks slightly better, but burns off at 1000 degrees. The silencer can pretty easily get that hot. |
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Green0,
Received my customer's can yesterday, Thanks. We are going to refinish it with Duraheat. It is supposed to be good to 1800 degrees. I had refinished a couple of M16 barrels with it before with good results. Cheers, Dave David Harries FFL/SOT The Gun Garage LLC www.thegungarage.com edited: for terrible spelling 
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The Bushwacker ended up testing within a tenth of a DB of two of what are pretty much considered two of the three quietest silencers in the US right now. I can't really say much more because it's in a forum where people are supposed to pay to see results. I can say that both silencers were $200 more expensive or more. People on other sites who make similar silencers 5 DB's louder that cost $150 more say it's ugly. I'm ok with that. The cans are starting to ship. So transfers are getting approved. Where do we find this forum? ETA: Nevermind, duh. |
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ok, your killing me green0, when do i get my can?
ATF needs to be more efficient! haha, you made a funny. 
You want the government to be efficient?  Your chances of winning the lottery are better than that.
Transfers should be approved 2-3 months after they were sent in. |
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Just wanted to report in that I got my can the other day. It looks really nice. Very well made. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet because I've been out of town on business a lot lately, but I'm hoping to take it to the range soon.
Thanks for making such a great product Green0! -Sam |
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just checked today my check was cashed IIRC dec12 both my cans went pending feb12 so hope to see them soon Haven't gotten your forms back yet as of yesterday, but should be soon I would think. I just got mine back on Tuesday. Threw it on my CZ .22 AR conversion that I finished up this morning and shot a few rounds in the back yard. It made me giggle
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my check cashed 1/22/2009 so i get my suppressor next month on the 22nd if all goes well? i went the trust route if that matters... My check was cashed on Nov 23 or 4th around there anyway and it got approved Feb 23(trust). Brad sent it to me yesterday and i got it today.Let me say that the pics of the can do not do it justice.It looks really good in person and is built like a brick shit house.I was very impressed when I unwrapped it.Its was out of the box all of 30 sec before I had it on a gun and another 60 sec before I was on my porch and put a couple mag fulls through her(the can,not my ex).It performs as expected;very quiet. |
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so i tested my can on the ar and was very pleased..soumded like a 22cap going off also sounded real good on my rugger mk2 with a paclight upper on it Good to hear you finally got your can. The one thing I worry about a little that can be prevented is threat of peening of the blast baffle. If you buy a .250" reamer 6" long, chuck 1/2 an inch of it in a hand drill and run it every 300 rounds of abusive fire [on SBR's], you cant hit the muzzle crown (even when used with the can mounted on the weapon)and will gaurantee the blast baffle aperture won't close in. I obviously didn't have time to torture test them to see how the 718 inconel blast baffle responds to aggressive fire schedules, so I just brought a reamer along for that purpose. We have plans to build an all 625 inconel QD silencer soon that we want to target the military market with, but need to secure funding for it and apply for a patent. That silencer would doubtless be louder, as 625 is softer and peens more so the bore would need to be larger. The cool thing about an all 625 silencer is it can probably bury an M4A1 barrel with a smile and beg for more abuse. I'm in Kuwait now. It's already probably 110+ easilly here in the day. |
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my check cashed 1/22/2009 so i get my suppressor next month on the 22nd if all goes well? i went the trust route if that matters... im still waiting on mine to deliver or hear back from F-troop i think i will give the ATF a call on monday and see what the status is, as it is over the standard 3 month wait... cant wait to get my hands on this can, it will be my first NFA toy
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my check cashed 1/22/2009 so i get my suppressor next month on the 22nd if all goes well? i went the trust route if that matters... im still waiting on mine to deliver or hear back from F-troop i think i will give the ATF a call on monday and see what the status is, as it is over the standard 3 month wait... cant wait to get my hands on this can, it will be my first NFA toy IM sent
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my check cashed 1/22/2009 so i get my suppressor next month on the 22nd if all goes well? i went the trust route if that matters... im still waiting on mine to deliver or hear back from F-troop i think i will give the ATF a call on monday and see what the status is, as it is over the standard 3 month wait... cant wait to get my hands on this can, it will be my first NFA toy IM sent its a late birthday present for me!!!! only missed my B day by a few weeks!!! cant wait to get my hands on this can |
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I finished mine with VHT Flameproof paint. It goes on a real nice matte black. They claim it is rated to 1500F. The only thing is I found the directions to be bad. Don't follow the instructions on baking, just bake it at 450F for about 3 hours and the finish is very scratch resistant. If you try to follow the instructions on baking it will scratch easily.
I have some pictures I'll try to post up soon. -Sam |
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So, I apologize. I completely forgot that I was going to post these pictures up a while ago. Thanks for reminding me Green0.
So, here goes: I used VHT Flameproof paint to finish my suppressor. The first step is to rough up the surface of the object you want to paint, so that the paint adheres better. I experimented with this on scrap pieces of metal and it does in fact make a difference. I used 80 grit sand paper and an electric hand sander. I masked the engraving off to make sure it didn't get worn off. 
After using the electric sander I very lightly roughed up the surface around the engraving by hand. 
Don't worry, it looks like hell, but the paint completely covers up the scratches. Next I used a hex wrench and a wooden dowel to plug the ends of the suppressor to avoid getting any paint inside. It also makes for nice handles to turn the part as you paint it. 
Here is what it looks like after the primer is sprayed on: 
I'm not sure if the primer is necessary. I didn't experiment with that on any scrap metal. Some flame proof paints say no primer necessary, but VHT says to use it. But then VHT also has pretty crappy curing instructions too. The reason I mention this is that with primer and a final coat I think the paint would be too thick and fill in the engraving too much. So, I had to painstakingly scrape the primer out of the engraving with a fine point awl before adding the black coat. So, if you want to experiment without primer on a scrap piece to see how durable the paint is it might save the work of having to scrape out the engraving. Here it is after adding the black coat: 
Closeup of engraving: 
Here is what I rigged up in the oven. I used a coat hanger and another piece of wire to suspend the suppressor in the oven. Wife wanted to know what I was cooking
I mentioned that the curing instructions for VHT weren't very good. The can says (iirc) to bake at 350 for 30, cool 30, 450 for 30, cool 30, 600 for 30, cool 30. When I tried this on scrap pieces of metal the paint would scrape of easily with a finger nail. In the process of calling around to some different places I talked to a guy who specializes in this kind of stuff and he told me that any flame proof paint needs to bake for at least 3 hours. So, I experimented some more and tried just 450 for 3 hours and the results were much better. The paint came out pretty durable and a really nice matte finish (as you can see from the pictures). If anyone has any questions about how I did this just let me know. -Sam |
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The silencer looks really nice. Thanks for the post. Finishing stainless is a pain in the ass. Maybe my plasticote would have stuck on if I'd baked for 3-4 hours. It had the same stupid 3 step bake.
My can over here is pretty much silver, but I shot it next to an M4QD SS NT4< the new model with the Tan Norell moly finish, and it sounded better. |
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I can't remember if I asked you this, but did you look into Melonite QPQ? I know that Bodycote in New Berlin does this. I actually talked to the metallurgist there not long ago for some very high precision parts that I needed heat treating on and he told me that it only adds about 2-4 tenths to the dimension of the part.
Here is a link to the datasheet on the processes they do: http://bodycote.com/?OB=81&POB=53&ID=221 Only down side is the minimums. I believe that if you have over 300lbs in parts it's ~$2.5/lb, otherwise $300/run. |
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So, I apologize. I completely forgot that I was going to post these pictures up a while ago. Thanks for reminding me Green0. So, here goes: I used VHT Flameproof paint to finish my suppressor. The first step is to rough up the surface of the object you want to paint, so that the paint adheres better. I experimented with this on scrap pieces of metal and it does in fact make a difference. I used 80 grit sand paper and an electric hand sander. I masked the engraving off to make sure it didn't get worn off. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8957_SM.jpg After using the electric sander I very lightly roughed up the surface around the engraving by hand. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8959_SM.jpg Don't worry, it looks like hell, but the paint completely covers up the scratches. Next I used a hex wrench and a wooden dowel to plug the ends of the suppressor to avoid getting any paint inside. It also makes for nice handles to turn the part as you paint it. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8960_SM.jpg Here is what it looks like after the primer is sprayed on: http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8963_SM.jpg I'm not sure if the primer is necessary. I didn't experiment with that on any scrap metal. Some flame proof paints say no primer necessary, but VHT says to use it. But then VHT also has pretty crappy curing instructions too. The reason I mention this is that with primer and a final coat I think the paint would be too thick and fill in the engraving too much. So, I had to painstakingly scrape the primer out of the engraving with a fine point awl before adding the black coat. So, if you want to experiment without primer on a scrap piece to see how durable the paint is it might save the work of having to scrape out the engraving. Here it is after adding the black coat: http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8964_SM.jpg Closeup of engraving: http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8965_SM.jpg Here is what I rigged up in the oven. I used a coat hanger and another piece of wire to suspend the suppressor in the oven. Wife wanted to know what I was cooking
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii269/VortexSam/Bushwacker-8969_SM.jpg I mentioned that the curing instructions for VHT weren't very good. The can says (iirc) to bake at 350 for 30, cool 30, 450 for 30, cool 30, 600 for 30, cool 30. When I tried this on scrap pieces of metal the paint would scrape of easily with a finger nail. In the process of calling around to some different places I talked to a guy who specializes in this kind of stuff and he told me that any flame proof paint needs to bake for at least 3 hours. So, I experimented some more and tried just 450 for 3 hours and the results were much better. The paint came out pretty durable and a really nice matte finish (as you can see from the pictures). If anyone has any questions about how I did this just let me know. -Sam What primer did you use, Sam? |