Posted: 1/14/2009 7:37:58 PM EDT
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So I'm looking for a new chain and bar for my Jonsered chainsaw. Found one online, but it said it is not an anti kick back chain......... WTF is the difference? I kept seeing warnings all over the place about it not being for the occasional user(which I am). Is this thing going to kill me if I get it?
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ETA: Depends on if you know what you're doing. I'm not real good at explaining physics things in ways other people understand. Someone else could probably give a better tutorial like 1GR or Coyote. ETA2: Found this: The condition, "kickback" occurs due to 1) the physics of the spinning chain around the tip of the bar, 2) putting the upper 1/4 of the bar tip in a bind or pinched condition (boring with the bar tip or hitting another object such as a limb, sapling or tree), 3) the violent release of pressure from the object being cut (limb under pressure or springpole).
Ways to lessen the effects of this violent reaction are 1) use an "anti-kickback" chain, 2) complete concentration as to the position of the bar tip, 3) proper stance (feet apart with firm and secure footing, hand on handle bar, with thumb curled around it, other hand on pistol grip/trigger, position body so if "kickback does occur the chain saw will go over the shoulder. Never try cutting anything with just one hand on the chain saw. Never try to cut anything above shoulder height. |
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A anti-kickback chain can't take near as big a "bite" of wood with each cutter. A kickback is what can happen when you touch anywhere on the semicircle end of the bar/chain to wood. A good chain will grab the wood. IF YOU are not fully in control of your saw, it can be thrown back up hard. It can be hard enough to yank the saw out of your hand. YOu get the picture what can happen then.
I'm not familiar with Jonsered but a lot depends on the length of your bar (longer bar = longer torque arm) and the condition of the chain. A slightly dull chain is a little more likely to grab (and possibly kickback) where as a sharp chain will be more likely to cut. I think any chain over 20" is going to have a yellow link on it indicating it is not an anti-kickback chain. I know I cannot buy an anti-kickback chain for my 24 adn 28" bars (not that I would want to). Basically, stay in control of your saw and pay attention to where the end of the bar is and what it might touch, and you probably be OK. |
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Never had and anti-kickback chain. I swear that the saw shops make most of their money on chain. Sell it to you at $2.00 per foot and then sharpen the sucker about 12 times for $5 a pop.. Average chain costs you $70 over the life of the chain, give or take.
Every time I went into the saw shop to get my chains resharpened I bought 1 or two chains until I had an even dozen. I think I have 18 or so now. If you have a big project, like clearing a few acres, have extra chains comes in handy when you work the saw for a full day. They also last longer when you don't treat the saw like a ditch-witch and you take the time to sharpen the saw with a decent file & guide once in a while. |
| I no longer pay the $5/sharpening at the shop. I bought a bunch of once used chains off fleabay, an inexpensive electric charpener, and do it myself. I can sharpen all my chains (about 10 - most 24") in under an hour. If I have to file the depth gauges, it takes a little longer. |
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I hate kickback chains...my introduction to chainsaw 101 was when I moved to WA in 97'...I had used one before, but now I had to put up my own wood for winter. Subsequent to that, I worked as a logger for a bit, trimming branches on the landing and chokesetting.
I have a huge Poulan Countervibe 3200, the safety chains are too slow and tax the motor. As OdT mentioned, it's all about the tip and your footing/stance. When cutting down a tree, you need the speed and the bite when you make your second and third (final) cuts. ALWAYS be aware of where the tip is. Stand comforatbly, on solid ground, two hands on the saw at all times. Work as if you're expecting the tip to kick up/back. Having said that, chain speed at the tip is your freind in "plunge cutting" a peice of wood. Faster the speed, the better the "bite", the safer it really is. Kooter- How long is the bar on your saw? if it's in the 16-20"range, and all you're doing is cutting firewood on a sawhorse with it, go for the regular chain...just allow common sense to prevail. 
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Quoted:
Kooter- How long is the bar on your saw? if it's in the 16-20"range, and all you're doing is cutting firewood on a sawhorse with it, go for the regular chain...just allow common sense to prevail. Dammit........ My wife lost my common sense years ago.... It is only a 16" bar. Going to be cutting firewood and a little tree trimming here and there. Nothing too extreme. |
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Quoted: Dammit........ My wife lost my common sense years ago.... It is only a 16" bar. Going to be cutting firewood and a little tree trimming here and there. Nothing too extreme. If you're a complete newb to power saws, I (or likely 1GR also) would be more than happy to give you a crash course anytime. Let one of us know. For you or any other rookies or new weekend warriors... They're dangerous sons of bitches. More so than a fast car or a loaded gun IMO. Them'll getcha. Follow Matts advice above. And, put the kidos in the house, and anyone else who might distract you. Give it 100% of your attention, and never get cocky or relaxed with it. A serious lesson awaits. Fuckin amazing tools, but ya gotta respect 'em. |
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Quoted:
Kooter- How long is the bar on your saw? if it's in the 16-20"range, and all you're doing is cutting firewood on a sawhorse with it, go for the regular chain...just allow common sense to prevail. 
I hate moving that stuff after I buck it. Trees on horses? 
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Dammit........ My wife lost my common sense years ago.... It is only a 16" bar. Going to be cutting firewood and a little tree trimming here and there. Nothing too extreme. If you're a complete newb to power saws, I (or likely 1GR also) would be more than happy to give you a crash course anytime. Let one of us know. For you or any other rookies or new weekend warriors... They're dangerous sons of bitches. More so than a fast car or a loaded gun IMO. Them'll getcha. Follow Matts advice above. And, put the kidos in the house, and anyone else who might distract you. Give it 100% of your attention, and never get cocky or relaxed with it. A serious lesson awaits. Fuckin amazing tools, but ya gotta respect 'em. Whil no where near an expert, I've been cutting firewood for about 2 years. Dad gave me this chainsaw he picked up at a yard sale for like $10. It is a Jonsered 520SP. Didn't run, but I got it running like a top and have been using it ever since. Problem is I think the bar is bent, or worn out. It has never been able to cut a straight line through a piece of wood. I have to twist it slightly to the right to get it to cut. I have just lived with it because I don't do a bunch of cutting. Sure is a pain in the ass to split wood that has been cut at an angle though. Finally decided to try a new bar and chain to see if that helps. |
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Dammit........ My wife lost my common sense years ago.... It is only a 16" bar. Going to be cutting firewood and a little tree trimming here and there. Nothing too extreme. If you're a complete newb to power saws, I (or likely 1GR also) would be more than happy to give you a crash course anytime. Let one of us know. For you or any other rookies or new weekend warriors... They're dangerous sons of bitches. More so than a fast car or a loaded gun IMO. Them'll getcha. Follow Matts advice above. And, put the kidos in the house, and anyone else who might distract you. Give it 100% of your attention, and never get cocky or relaxed with it. A serious lesson awaits. Fuckin amazing tools, but ya gotta respect 'em. Whil no where near an expert, I've been cutting firewood for about 2 years. Dad gave me this chainsaw he picked up at a yard sale for like $10. It is a Jonsered 520SP. Didn't run, but I got it running like a top and have been using it ever since. Problem is I think the bar is bent, or worn out. It has never been able to cut a straight line through a piece of wood. I have to twist it slightly to the right to get it to cut. I have just lived with it because I don't do a bunch of cutting. Sure is a pain in the ass to split wood that has been cut at an angle though. Finally decided to try a new bar and chain to see if that helps. Sounds to me like you need a new chain. Whenever I cant get a straight cut it is because of the chain. DONT LET YOUR CHAIN HIT THE GROUND and if there is alot of dirt on the wood brush the dirt off (like caked on mud) otherwise you will need to sharpen the chain really quick. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Dammit........ My wife lost my common sense years ago.... It is only a 16" bar. Going to be cutting firewood and a little tree trimming here and there. Nothing too extreme. If you're a complete newb to power saws, I (or likely 1GR also) would be more than happy to give you a crash course anytime. Let one of us know. For you or any other rookies or new weekend warriors... They're dangerous sons of bitches. More so than a fast car or a loaded gun IMO. Them'll getcha. Follow Matts advice above. And, put the kidos in the house, and anyone else who might distract you. Give it 100% of your attention, and never get cocky or relaxed with it. A serious lesson awaits. Fuckin amazing tools, but ya gotta respect 'em. Whil no where near an expert, I've been cutting firewood for about 2 years. Dad gave me this chainsaw he picked up at a yard sale for like $10. It is a Jonsered 520SP. Didn't run, but I got it running like a top and have been using it ever since. Problem is I think the bar is bent, or worn out. It has never been able to cut a straight line through a piece of wood. I have to twist it slightly to the right to get it to cut. I have just lived with it because I don't do a bunch of cutting. Sure is a pain in the ass to split wood that has been cut at an angle though. Finally decided to try a new bar and chain to see if that helps. At two years experience, I'm hesitant to dole out any advice. You've survived   If the teeth are sharpened evenly, you shouldn't need to correct its' path. (are they sharpened evenly, or is it possible that you need to find the saws' balance? Saws do balance differently, but they all need to ride in their own kerf. You direct it.) (look up "kerf" if I lost you) Chances are, its' sharpened improperly. But bars do get bent, etc. (more power-robbing than cutting wrong) |
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Dammit........ My wife lost my common sense years ago.... It is only a 16" bar. Going to be cutting firewood and a little tree trimming here and there. Nothing too extreme. If you're a complete newb to power saws, I (or likely 1GR also) would be more than happy to give you a crash course anytime. Let one of us know. For you or any other rookies or new weekend warriors... They're dangerous sons of bitches. More so than a fast car or a loaded gun IMO. Them'll getcha. Follow Matts advice above. And, put the kidos in the house, and anyone else who might distract you. Give it 100% of your attention, and never get cocky or relaxed with it. A serious lesson awaits. Fuckin amazing tools, but ya gotta respect 'em. Whil no where near an expert, I've been cutting firewood for about 2 years. Dad gave me this chainsaw he picked up at a yard sale for like $10. It is a Jonsered 520SP. Didn't run, but I got it running like a top and have been using it ever since. Problem is I think the bar is bent, or worn out. It has never been able to cut a straight line through a piece of wood. I have to twist it slightly to the right to get it to cut. I have just lived with it because I don't do a bunch of cutting. Sure is a pain in the ass to split wood that has been cut at an angle though. Finally decided to try a new bar and chain to see if that helps. At two years experience, I'm hesitant to dole out any advice. You've survived
If the teeth are sharpened evenly, you shouldn't need to correct its' path. (are they sharpened evenly, or is it possible that you need to find the saws' balance? Saws do balance differently, but they all need to ride in their own kerf. You direct it.) (look up "kerf" if I lost you) Chances are, its' sharpened improperly. But bars do get bent, etc. (more power-robbing than cutting wrong) I'm pretty sure I have fuckered up this chain good. I decided sharpening by hand was for the birds, so I chucked that 12 inch long file into my drill and went to town  So it is most likely me that screwed it up then........ figures....... A new chain and bar is on clearance at a website I found for only $25, I'll give that a shot
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Quoted: I'm pretty sure I have fuckered up this chain good. I decided sharpening by hand was for the birds, so I chucked that 12 inch long file into my drill and went to town So it is most likely me that screwed it up then........ figures....... A new chain and bar is on clearance at a website I found for only $25, I'll give that a shotFind the chain cheaper. 90% chance that all it is. Buy three of them, instead of the bar too. |