Posted: 8/24/2012 7:56:47 AM EDT
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Curious if anyone has some left over from doing a muzzle job or two that they would be willing to part with or share? I have two 14.5s coming and don't want to pin and weld.
Thanks! |
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You will need to get the area to a dull red heat, hot enough to reduce the temper of steel. You also need a good flux and clean surfaces. If you have never done silver brazing I suggest you practice on something less dear than your SBR.  I was thinking of getting a nut and bolt to test it out or something along those lines. ETA - if somebody has the right stuff from brownells it should have the flux already mixed in. Paste on threads, thread and tighten, and heat up till it melts. Also need to glob on a ton of heat blocker. |
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If you were up here in Prescott Valley, I'd happily give you some. I may be down at Ben Avery later today if you're available - most likely between 12p-2p. I won't be able to make it to Ben Avery today. Hopefully somebody closer to the east valley has some. I am guessing I don't need the whole jar from Brownells to do 2 of these. |
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You should try your local welding shop. I know everyone around me has it Vern, prax, US, Phx (rip). My local ace even has silver.
Edit: since your asking for such an easy thing to find i think I can fairly assume your not to familiar with metal. Don't get yourself or someone else hurt. Have a pro do this job. |
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You should try your local welding shop. I know everyone around me has it Vern, prax, US, Phx (rip). My local ace even has silver. Edit: since your asking for such an easy thing to find i think I can fairly assume your not to familiar with metal. Don't get yourself or someone else hurt. Have a pro do this job. Your assumption is wrong. I figured I would ask here for the stuff specifically used for this job and the stuff on Brownells is $60 that I doubt I will use all of it. So if anyone had some laying around and wanted to share and get a little money back on their purchase. But yea I didn't think to look for it at a weld shop. The pros tend to pin and weld, I don't want a pin and weld. Have torch, will light it up. |
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The pros tend to pin and weld, I don't want a pin and weld. Have torch, will light it up. What type of torch? I ask because it is easy to overheat with acetylene, I find a MAPP gas torch works well for me, plenty of heat but not so hot that it overheats easily. |
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The pros tend to pin and weld, I don't want a pin and weld. Have torch, will light it up. What type of torch? I ask because it is easy to overheat with acetylene, I find a MAPP gas torch works well for me, plenty of heat but not so hot that it overheats easily. Both. I was leaning towards using acetylene hearing from guys experiences here in the tacked thread because it will heat quicker and leave less time for the heat to travel leading to decreased chance of discoloration of the barrel and muzzle device. I know many guys use the MAPP just need to use more heat stopper. What MAPP torch do you use, the kit deal from Lowes/HomeDepot? |
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My torch head is probable 15 years old so I can't help you there.
Acetylene works very well but takes more skill to not overheat/spot heat. The flux used with silver removes all of the surface oxides and keeps the hot metal from further oxidizing until the solder wets the metal. If you get the metal/flux too hot it stops working and the metal gets an oxide scale, once that happens the solder will not wet the metal and you usually need to cool off the part, sand off the scale and start over. If you use the solder/flux paste this is less of a problem then using a separate flux and wire solder. With either gas you will need to get to red heat and that will discolor the metal, expect to do some refinishing. |
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My torch head is probable 15 years old so I can't help you there. Acetylene works very well but takes more skill to not overheat/spot heat. The flux used with silver removes all of the surface oxides and keeps the hot metal from further oxidizing until the solder wets the metal. If you get the metal/flux too hot it stops working and the metal gets an oxide scale, once that happens the solder will not wet the metal and you usually need to cool off the part, sand off the scale and start over. If you use the solder/flux paste this is less of a problem then using a separate flux and wire solder. With either gas you will need to get to red heat and that will discolor the metal, expect to do some refinishing. I planning on using the solder/flux mix - see what I end up with. At the temp needed the metal will just be turning red, dull/dark color. I will try both torches to see what happens, test it on a nut and bolt. Guys have done some awesome jobs on their first try in the tacked threads, very little discoloration almost looks like it's just a little dirty on SS and barely noticeable on parked barrels. Little oil seems to make it disappear. Looks way better than many of the pin and weld jobs even from ADCO. But I suppose we'll see. |