Posted: 10/31/2005 7:21:30 PM EDT
|
So I was kind of starting to work on my two AR style projects. Before I go further I would like to say that both are legal. First is my Vulcan style AR. I cleaned it and reapplied Alumahyde. Now I just need an upper for it. I have all the lower parts for it, just waiting for the Alumahyde to cure before I put them on.  Second is my single shot AR. It's upper was originally bought as the upper for the lower above, but after a botch Alumahyde job I decided to clean it off and while in the process I got the idea shown. I started to strip the anodize from the upper to match the lower. The picture shows the side I did the most work on, which is roughly 80% done. This is the same lower I made for the .50 BMG ban, but I have decided I don't want the BMG. Instead I think I might turn it into a 50 Beowulf or .300 Mag. Not sure yet, but I know I want something other than .223/5.56  Neither will be complete rifles for a while, but I am hoping the Vulcan will be 100% done by New Years. |
|
Anodic cotings do not affect strength in any way. What they do is two-fold. They add corrosion resistance. Without the anodic coating the surface will corrode and develop pits. It will take on a mottled appearance. Finger prints will become an unsightly appearance problem. The anodic coating also adds wear resistance by providing a thin, hard surface. The anodizing leaves the surface coated in aluminum oxide instead of aluminum. Aluminum oxide, in single crytal form, is also known as sapphire, second only to diamond in hardness. The wear resistance would be particularly important at any/all moving surfaces such as hinge points. Paint, when properly applied and cured, can provide some corrosion resistance. Paint films are also generally fairly thick compared to anodic films, so fitting the upper and lower, pins, etc may or may not fit properly on a painted receiver. Paint cannot NEVER provide the surface hardening properties of a good anodic coating. |
 Neo those look awesome. I especially like the one you did in Alumahyde. The finish on it looks like satin. You gotta do the other one too though. Don't leave the upper or lowever stripped like that. They'll only corrode. Fingerprints will always be a problem, and they're likely to pit unless you clean them religiously. It looks like you've already got the Alumahyde process down, so why not? Good job man. 
|
|
I am REALLY unhappy with the quality of the Alumahyde. I only redid the lower in it because I had some left over from the first time and I figured some covering was better than nothing. To give you an idea of what I am dealing with; I put the stuff together. I had preped the part with electrical tape to keep the paint from getting into critical areas, like detent holes and the trigger/hammer cavity. After letting it cure for over a week, I put it together and made sure everything worked. Cocking the hammer and dry firing it with no lower cased paint around the bolt catch to chip. It wasn't chipped before, the hammer wasn't hitting the bolt catch, just the vibrations alone made it chip and it has continued to chip a bit at a time each time I dry fired it. Now that is just dry firing, imagine when live rounds are being fired and the parts are actually moving. Needless to say, the Alumahyde is VERY temporary (basically just until I can get the money and parts together to set up my own anodize tank). Glad you liked them though. I was REALLY happy with how the Alumahyde came out looking, it's just suck a shame that it is so weak and prone to chipping. |
|
Neo, Alum-hyde is the worst possible paint you can use on a lower. Buy Brownell Telflon coat... drys fast, very thin coat and once you bake it, it is very durable. the anadizing on the AR receiver does add some hardness to the receiver... that anadizing is pretty tough cookie. |
|
Yeah, I am very displeased with how the Alumahyde has turned out, which makes me wonder what everyone who recommend it was thinking/doing. I honestly think I would have been better off with plain jane spray paint from Walmart. This stuff ships off clean over the slightest touch/vibration. There are even rings around the hammer and trigger pin holes from the metal slightly flexing as the pin went in, and that was enough to pop it all off. I hate to do it again, but I am going to dtrip it again and drop it in a small bucket of gas and try something else. I strongly suggest to everyone to stay away from Alumahyde. |
|
NeoWeird, your project looks awesome. I plan to buy (I don't think I can build one yet) a California Legal AR and I like the look of your Vulcan Style AR. How is your Vulcan Style AR is California Legal? Don't you have to have fixed internal 10 round magazine? Looks like you have a removal magazine...maybe it's fixed. How does the ammos get loaded? From the top? How easy is it? |
| It works just like a regular Vulcan, so the mag is pinned on the left side of the receiver inside the mag catch. You will also have to drill a notch in the mag itself keeping it in line with the original hole for the pin. The pin only goes through one side of the receiver and the mag its self, and slightly resting (like a shelf) on the other side of the receiver. When the mag catch assemb. is in place you cannot tell the difference. |