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Posted: 6/28/2014 5:45:56 PM EDT
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Anyone have one? I bought a lightly used one from a 3-gun guy, I got it to function test fine but when live firing, it doesn't reset over half the time. Didn't have
my allen wrenches with me (D'OH!!) but it seems like it needs to be adjusted to have the sear hook a little more on the trigger... more "bite" if you will. Going to try that, anyone have any tips? Some reviews I read people went through similar issues- can't wait to have it dialed in, the feel was a massive improvement over the original! |
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I bought the trigger direct from Jard. The fit of the hammer is loose and wobbly. I mic'ed my FAL hammer pin and it is .1963/.1964. I only have a caliper for measuring the hammer hole, so it is not as accurate, but definitely over .2000.
The hammer is also REALLY pressing up against the bolt and causing a lot of drag. So much so that it can cause out of battery if you ride the bolt, not to say I would do that but it is definitely pressing harder than stock. I took it back out to look at it and the spring looks like it took a set when it was cocking back. Definitely "over-bending". I dont know. I contacted Dean and he said he would swap out the hammer for a tighter one - they are nice people. I havent sent it back because I like the concept and want to work on it. I'll pilfer through my stash and look for a larger diameter hammer pin or I might even bush the hammer - we'll see. I might work on different springs because that one is too stressed.... |
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I went to the range and couldn't it dialed in. Removed some surface area from the "floor" of the lower receiver where the over travel set screw touches, as well as the rear sear
set screw. This gave it a different angle thus a different range of adjustment. I think I'll hit the range with it one more time then give up and send it in. |
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I was looking at running a Jard also and then came across Williams Fal trigger jobs. Are these decent? http://www.williamstriggers.com/page3.html |
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The FAL is a battle rifle, and modifying it away from that role can be problematic and possibly unsafe. Good, clean, smooth triggers belong on every firearm. Light triggers belong on the range, and not in the field.
I installed this kit http://www.falconarms.com/spring-kits/fn-fal/fn-fal-metric-metric-fire-control-parts-with-falcon-tpr-kit-without-hts.html in my DSA StG58A FAL with excellent results. The HTS components on my rifle were first-rate, so I did not need the more expensive kit that included such. This kit will lighten the trigger pull just a little, and without sacrificing reliability. The HTS components need to be in good condition in order for the trigger to feel smooth and clean, though. If your HTS components are not top quality, or at least properly re-worked good quality OEM components, consider remedying that situation first. |
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I think the FAL has a fair uphill battle for target trigger work. I went through this on a L1A1 lower that was Century buttholed and they come with a special century GMC coil spring for a trigger return spring. It's way too long for a corrected lower and only fits the long bored hole in the buttholes.
I got a few pieces of possible likely sized spring from my gunsmith friend and tried to make them work. On the test bench I had nice smooth light to medium triggers. On the range they lacked power or speed to insure a trigger reset. I ordered a replacement L1A1 trigger spring and although the trigger was a bit heavy it worked well and was dead nutz reliable. Shocking right? Fortunately the hammer and sear I got were smooth and square and were creep free. You can have a good trigger that is relatively heavy as long as it is creep free. In fact I'd rather have heavy and smooth over light with some crunchy stop over hangups. A firm spring in a trigger job is a good and reliable thing. That's one of the biggest issue with guys messing around with the Remington M700 triggers. They work fine if they're left in the 3.5 pound and higher range short of severe varnishing. They get funky when they're set lighter than they were designed for, add in some varnish and you will find problems. Add in the remington trigger pack springs are sitting in threaded holes. I wonder how much better the triggers would have been if that section of the trigger packss were smooth walled. My smith pointed out that little fact and he thought it was relevant in the lightest settings in the Remingtons. Anyways i digress, but I agree, it's meant to have a bit of weight behind the trigger, the guys were running, bouncing around in boats and armored vehicles, out of helos. That job demands a firm trigger. |
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Quoted:
I was looking at running a Jard also and then came across Williams Fal trigger jobs. Are these decent? http://www.williamstriggers.com/page3.html His work on FAL triggers, at least, seems to be lacking. The triggers all seem to have troubles (like doubling) very shortly after being returned. If you belong to The Fal Files, run a search on his work there. |
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Quoted: His work on FAL triggers, at least, seems to be lacking. The triggers all seem to have troubles (like doubling) very shortly after being returned. If you belong to The Fal Files, run a search on his work there. Quoted: Quoted: I was looking at running a Jard also and then came across Williams Fal trigger jobs. Are these decent? http://www.williamstriggers.com/page3.html His work on FAL triggers, at least, seems to be lacking. The triggers all seem to have troubles (like doubling) very shortly after being returned. If you belong to The Fal Files, run a search on his work there. Thanks for the heads up on that will check it out. |
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