Armory Sponsor
Posted: 10/7/2012 5:56:09 PM EDT
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I went shooting this weekend with my recently bought FAL. I was messing with the gas system at first to get it to cycle right, ended up leaving it in the "1" slot. But it still had 1-2 out of 20 fail to eject. Is that perhaps due to the African Surplus ammo I had, dirty or something else? (I am unable to turn the gas up or down with my hand I have to use the end of my brass to change it)
Also is their anything I can buy/ upgrade to manually manipulate the bolt? I had a few that failed to slide all the way forward thus had to eject the round to load a new one. I am hoping my issues are mainly due to a dirty gas system, and not due to a f'd up rifle or something. The last 18 rounds I fired through before I left the range functioned fine, but their was a lot of smoke coming from the front around the gas adjuster. (also the handguards did get very hot I guess since they are metal?) Any thoughts would be welcome. |
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Quoted:
What do you mean when you say 'anything to manually manipulate the bolt'? Sounds like he's asking if there are forward assists available. If so, yes. You'll need a small mod to your receiver, a FA capable charging handle, and a FA capable bolt carrier. (FA meaning forward assist, not the other FA) Oh - and to the OP, pull and clean recoil assembly. Make sure everything's cleaned and lubed, and cycles easily by hand. Is this a garage build? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
What do you mean when you say 'anything to manually manipulate the bolt'? Sounds like he's asking if there are forward assists available. If so, yes. You'll need a small mod to your receiver, a FA capable charging handle, and a FA capable bolt carrier. (FA meaning forward assist, not the other FA) Oh - and to the OP, pull and clean recoil assembly. Make sure everything's cleaned and lubed, and cycles easily by hand. Is this a garage build? Yes I was meaning "forward assist" and do you have a site that the above mentioned parts are available at? No this was not a garage build, bought at a gun show early September. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
What do you mean when you say 'anything to manually manipulate the bolt'? Sounds like he's asking if there are forward assists available. If so, yes. You'll need a small mod to your receiver, a FA capable charging handle, and a FA capable bolt carrier. (FA meaning forward assist, not the other FA) Oh - and to the OP, pull and clean recoil assembly. Make sure everything's cleaned and lubed, and cycles easily by hand. Is this a garage build? No receiver mods necessary. You need a forward assist charge handle, Israeli's can be had for around $40 usually, and a knotch in the rail of your bolt carrier to engage the f/a lug. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What do you mean when you say 'anything to manually manipulate the bolt'? Sounds like he's asking if there are forward assists available. If so, yes. You'll need a small mod to your receiver, a FA capable charging handle, and a FA capable bolt carrier. (FA meaning forward assist, not the other FA) Oh - and to the OP, pull and clean recoil assembly. Make sure everything's cleaned and lubed, and cycles easily by hand. Is this a garage build? Yes I was meaning "forward assist" and do you have a site that the above mentioned parts are available at? No this was not a garage build, bought at a gun show early September. So who made it? |
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Need more details. How do you know it's not a garage build if you bought it at a gun show?
What brand of receiver is it? What type of top cover are you using? Have you tried replacing the magazine and recoil springs? And I wouldn't even pay attention to the numbers on the gas regulator... |
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What do you mean when you say 'anything to manually manipulate the bolt'? Sounds like he's asking if there are forward assists available. If so, yes. You'll need a small mod to your receiver, a FA capable charging handle, and a FA capable bolt carrier. (FA meaning forward assist, not the other FA) Oh - and to the OP, pull and clean recoil assembly. Make sure everything's cleaned and lubed, and cycles easily by hand. Is this a garage build? Yes I was meaning "forward assist" and do you have a site that the above mentioned parts are available at? No this was not a garage build, bought at a gun show early September. So who made it? It is an Imbel, w/ DSA top with rails for my scope I used a few different magazines, all of which where bought with the rifle. Havn't even looked at the recoil spring, I've heard they are a little tricky if you want to keep you eyes. |
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Quoted:
It is an Imbel, w/ DSA top with rails for my scope I used a few different magazines, all of which where bought with the rifle. Havn't even looked at the recoil spring, I've heard they are a little tricky if you want to keep you eyes. Fire it with an original sheet metal top cover to see if the problem still occurs. Buy a stock removal tool to keep your eyeballs. |
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There are a few things that will cause a FAL to be under gassed.
1) the first and easiest is to check the orientation of the two holes on the gas tube. They should be at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock if they are at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, it will be under gassed. 2) Ensure the roll pin securing the gas tube to the gas block is present. If it's not you can substitute a suitably sized roll pin. 3) Make sure the gas tube is screwed in correctly. Remove the pin and screw the gas tube out and check the threads, if they are compressed it suggests it's been over tightened. Otherwise, screw it all the way in until hand tight, then back out a half turn or so if needed to get the holes in the gas tube to index at 4 and 8 o'clock. This also ensures the tube does not block the gas port. I've seen shooters use teflon tape to seal the threads better, and I don't see a problem with that, just be sure to clean the tape out of the u shaped sections where the gas needs to pass. 4) Check the gas block for cracks. If it's cracked you'll need a new one. 5) Check the gas piston head diameter. .429 to .431 is normal. If it's under .429 it could be a problem. 6) Ensure the gas piston is straight. Roll it on a table and ensure it shows no bends. Then with the rifle assembled, remove the gas piston spring and insert the gas piston. It should pass smoothly through the tube and through the hole in the receiver and move back and forth with no friction. If you have a straight gas piston but have friction, you could have a timing issue with the barrel causing improper alignment of the gas tube and receiver. 7) Metric gas blocks and barrels use a gas port that is drilled 90 degrees to the bore. Inch barrels and gas blocks have a gas port that is angled at about 45 degrees to the rear. However, metric gas blocks seem to end up on inch barrels and vice versa, and if that happens then you end up with one part with a 90 degree hole and the other part with a 45 degree hole resulting in a corner of one or the other impinging on the gas path. The solution is pretty simple - just re-drill the hole for the gas port to remove the offending corner. Drill carefully and inserting a .30 caliber GI cleaning rod or a wooden dowel in the bore will prevent overshooting and damaging the bore with the drill bit. 8) Gas port size is nominally .106, you can enlarge it as a last resort, but don't go over .110 on a standard length barrel. If everything is working per spec, it should function reliably when set on 3 or 4. To adjust the setting, shoot the rifle until it fails to cycle then stop it down two steps. |
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