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Posted: 6/5/2008 5:03:06 PM EDT
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I took my build out to the range and fired 1 test round with the gas collar at full open figuring it would short cycle but the bolt came to rest about .5" open and would not budge. I wait for it to cool and have to push the rifle with the charging handle against to bench to eject the case. I thought maybe closing the port more would get enough gas to cycle but it happened again with the gas collar at 75% closed so I called it quits until I could do a little research. Any thoughts? Barrel = 18" new G1 parts kit with DSA HTS kit Piston & Spring are new Thanks for your feedback. |
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A little more info might help us help you. Definately sounds like a gas problem. You should close the regulator all the way and try it again, however, they should run fine about 3 or 4. Is it a standard lenght rifle or carbine/para? If the barrel was shortened, was the gas port (in the barrel) opend up? What kind of ammo? What parts kit did you use? Did you use the all the orginal gas system parts? Is the tube and piston clean? I've had a few problems in the past with "orginal" gas tubes. I try to replace the opld gas tubes with a new one. Had to replace a couple of regulators also. I always use a Tapco piston as a compliance part, so those are always new. Good luck and keep us posted. |
Am I reading this right, that you shoot and the bolt only extracts .5", and requires significant force to hand cycle the spent case? Does it cycle unfired ammo by hand? |
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Both of mine require considerable force to manually eject fired cases. I'd suggest trying it again with the gas closed completely off. Of course, check all the other obvious items beforehand: gas plug not set to "G", gas piston not binding, gas tube not missing the roll pin, etc.. Also, ensure that there is not excess lube in the recoil spring tube. Improper lube there will slow rearward movement of the bolt markedly. |
I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM. I went through the whole gas system to see if i can find anything wrong and I found NOTHING. My gun would do the same thing. I would fire the round then it would JAM in the BREECH with the bolt opening about and inch or less. I had to stand on the coking handle and jump on it in order to remove the stuck shell. Embarrassing as all hell at the range. It's called the FAL POGO. I found that every time I shot with a STEEL CASED ammo round it would do this. So I only shoot with brass and I NEVER have anymore issues. I think it's just a matter of tolerances between the the case and the barrel and the fact that steel once expanded doesn't really lend it's self to metal retraction, meaning once expanded it doesn't shrink back to it's former shape. Brass is a soft metal and if lends it's self to more of a malleability state. Note* A side by side comparison of the spent steel cased shell and a spent brass cased shell reveled NOTHING. NO scratches. No gouges. Nothing. I bet you shot wolf ammo of other steel cased ammo.......let me know |
My L1a1 does the same thing with CAVIM. Rarely will it cycle using that or Barnaul. Works fine with seemingly everything else, though. |
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Remove bolt carrier. Remove piston. Remove piston spring and drop piston into gas tube to see if it will fall freely. Cavim is weak, requires gas closure on best functioning FAL types. Y'all gonna break your charging handles if that is what you think the pogo is. Rifle muzzle up with hard surface below, grasp charging handle with hand, raise rifle and then lower briskly (slam) butt onto hard surface while applying downward pressure to charging handle. |
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