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Lima Six Belt fed AR15 Build 300 BLACKOUT SUBS PG 24 (Page 34 of 35)
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Originally Posted By November5: So close, yet so far https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/173129/IMG_3688-3646615.jpg Damn, these are going to be sweet. My only nitpick is I wish the trigger guard had a rounded/winter profile. Can't wait to get hands on. |
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Thank you both for the updates. I love the transparency on where everything is at and appreciate you taking time out for keeping all of us informed. Nice job on the video too. Love the break down on all the components. Fingers crossed we can get the Hydras figured out. |
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Harvey I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but with the drill kit for the gas block, would adding a (terminology) locking collar for the drill bit be a feasible/cost effective/confidence boosting so you don't drill too far and come out the other end of the barrel? Everything looks awesome so far. |
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Originally Posted By shootdaily: Is there a pair of iron sights that will work with this? Like standard front buis and short rear for mounting on the top cover. Cz scorpion Evo had low profile picatinny sights. I plan on running a red dot anyway. You can use a 3/4" pic rail riser and run any front sight. Also, I believe Lage makes a low profile rear site that would be close to perfect to use with a standard front sight. |
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Originally Posted By cccpNyC: Harvey I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but with the drill kit for the gas block, would adding a (terminology) locking collar for the drill bit be a feasible/cost effective/confidence boosting so you don't drill too far and come out the other end of the barrel? Everything looks awesome so far. We are recommending putting a brass cleaning rod in the barrel to prevent drill through. |
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Originally Posted By November5: I'm working with the machine shop, everything was good on the hydra adapters except that they don't fit hydras. Â I called out a spec of .196 +/- .005 for the groove that slides onto the hydra. Â They cut them to .172. Â I'm sure they'll make it right, but it's going to be further delayed. I can only imagine measuring the first one and the words that came out of your mouth after. |
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Originally Posted By BadSVT: I can only imagine measuring the first one and the words that came out of your mouth after. When you design something and it doesnt fit, then you realize that it was machined out of spec, thats usually a sigh of relief lol. It means its someone elses fault 
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Originally Posted By Type7SOT: When you design something and it doesnt fit, then you realize that it was machined out of spec, thats usually a sigh of relief lol. It means its someone elses fault As a supplier, you're doing it wrong. It's always the suppliers fault, especially when you design it wrong 
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Originally Posted By cccpNyC: That works. Cheaper and easier Upon testing, the cleaning rod is a bad idea. Since the cleaning rod is round, the drill bit tries to deflect off of it, and it causes the drill bit to snap. We came up with another method to prevent drill-though and we are going to make a video about it. |
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When drilling AK barrels back in the day you just ran high speed and light pressure. You could always feel when the bit broke through. This is an ar barrel and is drilled 90 degrees. Just go easy on the pressure high speed and mark your bit with tape so you don’t over drill if you are worried about it. Drop the back end of the bit into the hole and verify afterwards if you aren’t sure. What is the thickness of the drill jig from bore centerline. You can also use a drill bit stop collar set to the appropriate distance. I would most likely shy away and go by feel because if you mis measure or place it incorrectly and are overdo rodent you will blow through into the other side of the barrel. |
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Originally Posted By Type7SOT: One other thing: Nitride is hard as F@#&! It basically instantly dulls the drill bit (uncoated high speed steel). I'm gonna test with cobalt bits and see if it helps. But I would highly recommend a phosphated barrel to avoid this. I keep two carbide bits in the tool box when I have to dimple nitrided barrels. They cut through like butter. |
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Originally Posted By BadSVT: I keep two carbide bits in the tool box when I have to dimple nitrided barrels. Â They cut through like butter. Yep, but for people trying to drill a gas port with a hand drill it would be really easy to snap a carbide bit |
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 Why can't you use a curved gas tube on the Lima Six? |
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| What’s the status on the pws piston setups for this bad boy. If you made a carrier with a strike face people could just use the superlative piston kits. Though the pws setup would be ideal. It looks like a normal carrier key with an op-rod welded onto it. |
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Originally Posted By tommyidone: What’s the status on the pws piston setups for this bad boy. If you made a carrier with a strike face people could just use the superlative piston kits. Though the pws setup would be ideal.  It looks like a normal carrier key with an op-rod welded onto it. I didn't realize there was a way to get just the piston parts from PWS |
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What is the outside to outside travel length, of the charging handle. I’m wondering if my FM-9 brass catcher will work with the Lima Six. The videos show some of the links really getting launched down range. |
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Originally Posted By WyattC: I didn't realize there was a way to get just the piston parts from PWS Originally Posted By WyattC: Originally Posted By tommyidone: What's the status on the pws piston setups for this bad boy. If you made a carrier with a strike face people could just use the superlative piston kits. Though the pws setup would be ideal. It looks like a normal carrier key with an op-rod welded onto it. I didn't realize there was a way to get just the piston parts from PWS |
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Originally Posted By tommyidone: What’s the status on the pws piston setups for this bad boy. If you made a carrier with a strike face people could just use the superlative piston kits. Though the pws setup would be ideal.  It looks like a normal carrier key with an op-rod welded onto it. They expressed interest in working with us multiple times, and then ghosted us every time. So probably not gonna happen. However, we are looking into other options. |
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Originally Posted By MGVINCE: What is the outside to outside travel length, of the charging handle. I’m wondering if my FM-9 brass catcher will work with the Lima Six. The videos show some of the links really getting launched down range. Ill measure and let you know. Its usually the brass that goes flying because of the dual ejectors. We are looking into a downward eject option for lefties or people who want brass catchers. |
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Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: its interesting and im seeing reviews come out , but the recip ch is yikes. thats easy to make non recip, a la m60 or 240b style with a handle that slides to a detent. i feel its a mis-step to leave it Recip. Yikes? Why? Its simple and works. Also doubles as a forward assist. We are taking a 5K upper and getting the cost down to 2K without sacrificing quality or making it overseas. This means we must simplify the design. I'll say what I've said several times to people wanting MCR features on the Lima Six: buy an MCR! |
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im a lefty, i dont like things flying at my face constantly. i mean for 2k im sure there will be enough that i can get my hands on one and machine a non recip ch setup for it myself. cant be that much to do a lil slider and detent design and mount it. maybe itll be a nice side work piece for me that i can sell.....the aftermarket fixes a number of OEM sins! i still think its neat, and the longer stroke helps feeding. the fixed barrel, if you watch your rate of fire and use cl toobs, itll handle civvy fun gun days. i do agree the FL is wild priced and your 2k buy in is appealing. im rooting for you...oh ome last thing, can you show pics of the brass after firing? i reload and the FL brass is perfect coming out. m249 is....not . any dents or extractor pull on the brass? |
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Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: im a lefty, i dont like things flying at my face constantly. i mean for 2k im sure there will be enough that i can get my hands on one and machine a non recip ch setup for it myself. cant be that much to do a lil slider and detent design and mount it. maybe itll be a nice side work piece for me that i can sell.....the aftermarket fixes a number of OEM sins! i still think its neat, and the longer stroke helps feeding. the fixed barrel, if you watch your rate of fire and use cl toobs, itll handle civvy fun gun days. i do agree the FL is wild priced and your 2k buy in is appealing. im rooting for you...oh ome last thing, can you show pics of the brass after firing? i reload and the FL brass is perfect coming out. m249 is....not  . any dents or extractor pull on the brass? We are looking to a downward eject conversion for lefties. It will eject downward into the magwell so you wont be able to install a nutsack the normal way, but it may be a good solution for some people. 
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Originally Posted By Type7SOT: One other thing: Nitride is hard as F@#&! It basically instantly dulls the drill bit (uncoated high speed steel). I'm gonna test with cobalt bits and see if it helps. But I would highly recommend a phosphated barrel to avoid this. Not to mention nitride sucks for fast rates of fire. Chrome lined ftw! |
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I just posted the files for my Spade grip kits on the L6 forum. Feel free to make one for yourself. Shooting a MG with spades increases the gun level, and makes it easier for kids and smaller adults to fire them as well. https://limasix.com/community/technical-discussions-help/spade-grip-kits/  3d printed Spade Grip overview |
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Originally Posted By WyattC: Anyone with a Hydra lower might want to check to see if all the holes are in spec, either that or FCD buffer retainer pins are oversized. My lower will not take them so I'm going to have to order a different retainer pin and see if it will fit. |
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Originally Posted By November5: I'm working on getting the hydra adapters corrected. Â But in the meantime I ordered a Rosco husky 11.5" for my build. 11.5" belt fed? |
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Originally Posted By November5: FCD buffer retainers are intentionally cut to the high end of the spec, so possibly tolerance stacking. Definitely tolerance stacking. My KAK retainer was almost a zero-tolerance fit, to the point that I could probably run it like an air piston and remove the spring entirely without issue. |
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Originally Posted By HK94dude: 11.5" belt fed? Originally Posted By HK94dude: Originally Posted By November5: I'm working on getting the hydra adapters corrected. But in the meantime I ordered a Rosco husky 11.5" for my build. 11.5" belt fed? |
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Originally Posted By November5: Bolt catches came in today, everything looks great other than the whole not fitting on the Hydra lower. Â That's being corrected. Â Looking at Mid December now. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/173129/2B9A22CB-52FD-4C32-8780-AF46462D088F-3650511.jpg That looks fantastic! |
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Originally Posted By November5: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/173129/IMG_3735-3650526.jpg The bolt catches are 17-4 H900, I had the catches themselves left raw, the actuator pad is black oxided. Hot damn! This thing is awesome! The printed boxes are a really nice touch. |
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Originally Posted By November5: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/173129/IMG_3735-3650526.jpg The bolt catches are 17-4 H900, I had the catches themselves left raw, the actuator pad is black oxided. That looks amazing. Bummer they didn't fit but sounds like they're making it right. |
I have a feeling my Hydra lower is out of spec. Tried multiple uppers and I can't get that rear push pin through. Feels like the upper isn't going down into the lower far enough  |
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Originally Posted By HK94dude: I have a feeling my Hydra lower is out of spec. Tried multiple uppers and I can't get that rear push pin through. Feels like the upper isn't going down into the lower far enough Reach out to them. If there is an issue I'm sure they'll make it right. |
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Lima Six Belt fed AR15 Build 300 BLACKOUT SUBS PG 24 (Page 34 of 35)
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