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Posted: 6/24/2014 5:01:59 PM EDT
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I recently moved a rifle from a stock to an EBR chassis. With the stock it was shooting about 2 MOA with a milsurp and a red dot. When I started with the chassis today, it was much worse due to the barrel tensioner. I backed the tension screw completely out and that improved accuracy somewhat, but not quite what it was before. If I set minimal tension with it, groups were tighter, but would throw a random flyer every once in a while.
Is there a proper method for setting the tension on it? Also, has anyone tried removing the pin from the op rod guide? It seems to me that if the pin it removed, it would allow for the barrel to "float" a little more within the chassis. |
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Pull the pin!
I never used the pin in any of my EBRs. I posted some detailed information on adjusting the barrel whip screw back in March of this year. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=6&t=419348 Pull the pin, adjust the whip screw, shoot a full mag, and re-check to see that the top cover and op rod guide screws are correctly torqued & not over tightened. The reason you do this is to make sure the action has settled into the chassis. https://www.facebook.com/M14EBR.US 
You will want to consider adding an M14 EBR trigger shoe once you have settled in with your new chassis. |
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Thanks for the help. I adjusted the whipe screw so there is just clearance. I'll shoot it like this, then shoot it without the pin to see what happens. The action goes into the block just fine, but the engineer in me can't help but think the op rod block is putting pressure on the barrel through the pin.
What is the advantage of the EBR shoe? Mine is an EBR mod 1. I've shot EBR mod 0s in the past and noticed a very long reach to the trigger. WIth the mod 1 however, it's the opposite and I feel the trigger is too close. |
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Yes sir, leaving the pin in the op rod guide block can cause binding.
The M14 trigger is designed to be pulled in more of an upward direction. The original design is not user friendly when a pistol grip stock is used. The M14 EBR trigger shoe is wider and longer than a stock M14 trigger. The steel M14 EBR trigger shoe is designed with the correct angle required to direct the trigger pull more to the back than up. The tip of the trigger can no longer stab the tip of your trigger finger. The trigger pull feels natural & crisp with the M14 EBR trigger shoe. M14EBR.US 
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Roll pin & SAGE EBR Guide block...
The chunky guide block is a key component of the SAGE EBR chassis system. It holds the barrel in place, and it aligns & guides the op rod. The block fits tightly inside the chassis, and it is secured on two sides plus the bottom by three large screws. There is a provision to utilize the old school roll pin, but it is NOT necessary. I doubt that you will find one in any of the thousands of M14EBR-RI rifles TACOM RI assembled. Let the block, chassis tension and three bolts work together to secure the barrel & op rod... save the roll pin for a non-EBR rifle. Also, I've never used Loctite on a SAGE EBR. Six easy steps to better accuracy... Adjusting the barrel whip screw located on the front of the top cover on a SAGE EBR chassis. 1. Loosen the side mounted whip lock screw. 2. Loosen the top mounted whip screw. 3. Position a paper business card between the whip screw & barrel. 4. Tighten the whip screw until the business card is held in place. 5. Loosen the whip screw just enough to free the business card. 6. Tighten the whip lock screw to 10-15 inch pounds. That's it. You are done. |
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