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Posted: 6/5/2014 11:52:14 AM EDT
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CMP – HRA M1 (Service)
I had a few questions for any M1 experts if you have the time. Please excuse my ignorance. I ordered the following (4) CMP – HRA M1 (Service) Garand. P1: How does the square “P” stamp on the stock differ from a circle “P” stamp? P2: Is this wood pattern common? (same stock from P1) P3: Any idea why the stock would come from the CMP stained black? P4: Is it common for service grades to be rated 1+/1+? P5: Can one assume above noted (P4) is typical of service grade? (metal seems too immaculate) Does it make a rifle more desirable to contain only parts made from the receivers manufacture? (ex.all HRA parts) Receiver:5503XXX Receiver:4761XXX Receiver:5611XXX Receiver:5583XXX 
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Quoted: CMP – HRA M1 (Service) I had a few questions for any M1 experts if you have the time. Please excuse my ignorance. I ordered the following (4) CMP – HRA M1 (Service) Garand. P1: How does the square "P” stamp on the stock differ from a circle "P” stamp? Square is a rebuild stamp..take it out of the stock you may see an electro-pencil marking there with a date. P2: Is this wood pattern common? (same stock from P1) Birch..used in rebuilds ...Normal.. P3: Any idea why the stock would come from the CMP stained black? Sometimes they did that as Birch (see above) can be rather "bright" P4: Is it common for service grades to be rated 1+/1+? Sure..means you got lucky...breech/muzzle readings are "as-new". P5: Can one assume above noted (P4) is typical of service grade? (metal seems too immaculate) No..thats the better end of SG.. Does it make a rifle more desirable to contain only parts made from the receivers manufacture? (ex.all HRA parts) Depends on if the rifle is "correct" and not rebuilt.... Once it's been "rebuilt"...it's not really a game changer. However some people like to switch them around to make them all the same. Personally I don't...unless it's a nice unrebuilt rifle and it only needs a few parts to make it "correct" OR it's rare/early version etc.. otherwise..shoot it and enjoy.... Receiver:5503XXX Receiver:4761XXX Receiver:5611XXX Receiver:5583XXX http://i61.tinypic.com/2vjd0yt.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/r2rfqp.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/2f03woi.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/w0j5gi.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/sx2nlw.jpg  |
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Jeremy was dead on with his answers.
1/1 are great readings, basically the measurements of a new barrel. Many of the HRAs saw little heavy use due to their date of manufacture, and many are in excellent condition. I have a similar birch rebuild stock with boxed P. It's one of my favorite M1 stocks, but it does seem heavier than my USGI walnut stocks. If you clean the stock with mineral spirits and then rub in several coats of pure tung oil, you may reveal some beautiful texture/stripes in that birch. CMP replacement stocks are meh. Most require some minor work to ensure optimal fit, ie op rod clearance, proper trigger group seating, etc. There are details on the CMP Forums. I'll dig up a link if you need it. The CMP Forum is the go to place if you need help or info on your rifles. They look great, I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoy mine. |
| Boy that first photo with the birch stock looks like the one that I refinished and then couldn't get the rifle working. I was very sorry to not get the same rifle and stock back with the nice lighting streaks in it. My first CMP rifle and I was a noob. The rifle I had was a 5.something million SA. ETA wouldn't be the same receiver as the one I had was greek black but the stock could be! |
| Birch stocks are about 10% denser than walnut, and also more resistant to dings and cracking. They were often stained, as mentioned above, because they tended to be on the lighter side. OTOH, some birch stocks have spectacular (and desirable ($$)) configurations in the wood. Sometimes one has to remove the original stain to see what's there, sometimes an expert can give an educated opinion. |
OP, here is one of the 6 six M1s I have ordered through the CMP. The pictures are the same rifle as it came out of the box, and after its very first cleaning with some fine steel wool and denatured alcohol. Before you go accepting internet advice and start taking more invasive measures to remove possible staining, I would try and give it a good cleaning and see what you get. You might save yourself some desirable markings or stamps on the stock.
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Linseed oil oxidizes and turns black.
If you look at a surviving tudor era building (dawb and wattle with exposed oak beams) the oak looks black. It was not black originally but the linseed oil has oxidized to a jet black. Or it could be dirt. This is also why, when people strip the finish on their stock, they are surprised at how light the wood appears. Then want to stain it to get back to a darker shade. |
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Could be cosmoline type stuff in the stock as well. Here's a great guide to getting it out and cleaning the stock.
Garand Gear Guide |
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Quoted:
The rebuild facilities at San Antonio Arsenal and for a short time Red River Arsenal used a "P" without serifs stamped within a 0.37 inch-wide square box. Both those arsenals were know for using a lot of birch replacement stocks. RRAD stamped theirs as the OP's rifle shows. SAA stamped their Proof-P (square, also) on the bottom of the flat of the pistol grip. Mike B |
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