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Posted: 9/30/2013 8:18:59 AM EDT
| Just picked up a M1A , #MA9106' blk syn stock, what does the poor crowd suggest as upgrades? |
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Get a GI extractor (way stronger) and a Sadlak op rod guide (way smoother).
And go here often. http://m14forum.com/m14-m1a-forum/ |
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Just picked up a M1A , #MA9106' blk syn stock, what does the poor crowd suggest as upgrades? Clean it thoroughly, and lube it properly. A tub of Valvoline Durablend wheel bearing grease and some CLP will do. The M1A forum here has advice on where to lube and the lubricant(s) used. Shoot it to verify proper functioning of rifle and mag(s). Make no changes to the rifle until reliability is verified. If you happen to need warranty work, send it back. Your next priorities should be Scott Duff's M1A guide book, a proper Service Rifle cleaning rod, additional magazines (Check Mate Industries), Ammo, a GI M-14 buttstock cleaning kit, a good GI Sling (Nylon version preferred), and possibly a Bayonet and scabbard, if your rifle has a bayo lug. While testing, zero the rifle at 25 meters, and set rear sight elevation knob to "2". You should be very close at 200 yds/meters. Re-adjust as necessary at the proper distance. Replacing the bolt innards with GI or top quality civvy parts is generally thought wise. A NM trigger job will help, and won't bankrupt you. You can obtain Match Conditioning Instructions, a Brownell's Steel Bed kit, and bed the barreled action into your syn stock. Yes, you can DIY and save a lot of money. Just follow the instructions. Beyond this point, I think, you begin to reach the point of diminishing returns. There are all sorts of bells and whistles for the M1A. None of them compare to developing your shooting skills to a high degree, and some of the bells and whistles are almost worthless outside of some very specialized and rare circumstances. If you think you will eventually want to scope the rifle, consider the Ultimak Scout scope mount, 2-7x Burris pistol scope and Leupold QRW rings. Conventional scope mounts for the M1A can be problematic, and I've tried a few good ones. YMMV, and that is something to save up for. Good luck! |
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Since you are a fellow coastie I have to reccoment the Smith Industries USCG M14 muzzle brake. It looks cool and says USCG right on it. Cant hurt to have a little service pride can it? I agree!!! I have seen those somewhere, any idea where I can get one? Semper Paratus |
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Check for bolt roller impact.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_6/324695_Problem_with_my_Springfield_M1A_Bolt_Roller____edited_to_add__Springfield_fixed_it__see_below_.html ETA Sadlak Spring Guide is worth the money. I would look into shims for the gas system. Pretty cheap. |
| Another Coastie here.. I have traded for some USGI parts and wondering about the benefit of the USGI fiberglass stock (have one). I do not have the rifle yet, still trying to decide the best plan of attack. Looking at the loaded, then swap out the factory SA for USGI parts. I don't have the trigger group or oprod, but plan to swap a couple extra bolts for those parts. Is there a USGI trigger group that is NM prepped, or is that just a modification? Thanks for the info! |
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I prefer the contours and feel of a USGI stock-about $80.00, give or take. USGI synthetics are the most practical. Ugly? Well, they're not "beautiful", but they don't warp or get damaged easily.
Your rifle sounds to have a rubber recoil pad where the original USGI buttplate with a trapdoor for the cleaning kit would normally be. For that reason alone, a USGI synthetic or wood stock is worth the money. Inside your buttstock, the cleaning rod sections, tip, and bore brush (stored in a green cloth pouch), chamber ratchet brush, combo tool / cleaning rod handle, and grease or grease / bore cleaner / CLP are stowed. Entire USGI issue cleaning kits can be purchased for about $28.00 from reputable dealers like William Ricca in PA. If Bill says it's original USGI, then that's what it is-he's an honest and knowledgeable dealer in surplus parts and accessories. Bolt parts: Buy an original USGI extractor at a minimum. An M1 extractor will work too, as long as you don't plan on training with or firing blanks. Having a complete set of USGI bolt parts is even better. Beware of who you buy from, as some will try to sell you parts advertised as "new", but are just reparked. Claude from RA Parts is yet another honest, knowledgeable dealer in M14 parts-hell of a nice guy, too. Springs: Op rod springs can and do break. Have a complete set of extra springs for your rifle. Ejector, extractor, op rod, safety, hammer, etc.-not that expensive. I believe Fulton Armory sells spring replacement kits. Have at least five magazines (USGI, or CMI-a govt. contractor). $25.00-30.00 ea. One in the rifle, four in pouches. Seven is better. Fifteen is even better yet. LRB Arms of Long Island had some at the lower end of the price spectrum. 44mag.com is a good retailer to order from. I like having a bayonet lug on my M14s. To me, it's worth the $80.00 or so for a USGI flash suppressor. Like raf said, a USGI green nylon sling is worth the $7.00-$10.00. Mine came from military clothing sales, for less than $7.00 if you know anyone on active duty. These new slings made for the M16A2 are longer than the Vietnam-era nylon slings, and I like them better for that reason. Beware of phony "GI" slings marketed by retailers such as Brigade Quartermaster. Were that rifle mine, I'd eventually replace as many SA, Inc. parts as I could with USGI parts. Bolt, op-rod, rear sight components, and trigger group. Most of your rifle is made in Taiwan (unless it has USGI parts in it), which is fine, but nothing like the quality of materials, hardness, and geometry found in USGI parts. Your receiver was poured in Quebec, Canada BTW. The M14 is an expensive hobby, but the money you spend now will seem a lot less expensive years down the road. Congratulations of your new rifle-they're addictive. |
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Quoted:
Another Coastie here.. I have traded for some USGI parts and wondering about the benefit of the USGI fiberglass stock (have one). I do not have the rifle yet, still trying to decide the best plan of attack. Looking at the loaded, then swap out the factory SA for USGI parts. I don't have the trigger group or oprod, but plan to swap a couple extra bolts for those parts. Is there a USGI trigger group that is NM prepped, or is that just a modification? Thanks for the info! I've never heard of NM-specific trigger group parts. AFAIK, they were hand-fitted and worked on by knowledgeable armorers / gunsmiths after the component parts were manufactured to make their interaction with the other parts smoother for the purpose of a trigger pull between 4.5-6.0 lbs. with zero trigger creep. The trigger group was then marked with the last four of the rifle's serial number. SA and TRW built NM M14s on the factory production line from new rifles (receivers were marked "NM"), but I believe the only "NM" parts were the barrel (standard barrels were used on the first production run of SA NM M14 rifles), sights, reamed flash suppressor, and stocks. Whether the NM op-rod guide came later or not, I don't know. Not sure if factory-built NM rifles came with a unitized gas cylinder or not. The M1 had a "NM" marked op-rod fitted to rifles built to NM specs, but I never saw an M14 op-rod marked "NM". Match conditioning specs for the M14 evolved over time through trial and error since the original rifles were built in 1963. There's lots of little things you can do to eek out more accuracy from your rifle without going whole hog with glass bedding, etc. |
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I don't dispute anything said immediately above, but my strong suggestions are to shoot your rifle, verify 100% functionality, and calibrate the iron sights.
All this talk of NM mods and parts is premature, IMHO. First things first. Don't fall into the trap that equipment will take the place of skill. I have seen many a shooter with a tricked-out shorty AR who lost a bet against me and my tricked-out Mini-14. The difference was in shooting skill. Learn how to shoot your rifle with iron sights, and you will be miles ahead of gear-types who buy stuff, but seldom use it. Once you can shoot up to your rifle's potential, then consider mods. This process will take some time, and effort, but it is very much worth it. |
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