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Posted: 10/18/2011 7:44:05 AM EDT
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Hey folks. Got myself a greek collectors grade SA garand. This thing looks great nice bore, my first garand made in the 50's. I am going to shoot the hell out of it. I took the thing apart and the oprod looks pretty complicated/difficult to make/weld. Do they make these things anymore? How hard are they to manufacture?
Also, I bought some Mobil 1 synthetic grease, looks like there is ALLOT of big parts sliding against each other. Is there a place anywhere to add oil or stick to grease like it was originally meant? |
| I just bought my first Garand (November 1944 Springfield) two weeks ago, one thing I did not know to look at before buying was Op Rod condition. Mine was not bent but the guide lug was pretty much trashed which allowed the Op rod to disengage the bolt while the bolt was in battery, anyway lesson learned there, in the future I will pay more attention to the guide lug. I purchased an Op Rod off of gunbroker a few days ago, I honestly do not plan on shooting mine very often but I do want to shoot it and try to keep the parts original so I was willing to pay the extra coin for a correct part off gunbroker. There is also a company in Ohio, their website is www.columbusmachine.com, that does op rod repair. As far as lube, i would greas anything that slides, especially where the Op Rod travels on the reciever, that is a very critical area. |
| Get yourself a proper Garand guide on proper care and maintenance, Fulton Armory sells one or two. No, the oprod is NOT currently being made, but as mentioned there are folks who can repair the tab and replace a worn piston if needed. Nice GI op-rods arent incredibly expensive, so if you are concerned buy a replacement from a reputable Garand parts house and squirrel one away. |
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Very Good condition Op Rods are not that expensive. Non collector Op Rods can be had for $100.00 or sometimes less on gun forums
Here is a chart for grease points http://www.nicolausassociates.com/PDF/M1GarandRifleGreasePoints.pdf Columbus Machine can repair your Op Rod to like new http://www.columbusmachine.com/oprod.htm |
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CAREFUL.
Ammo for the M1 has to be loaded to USGI M2 ammo specs. Bullets that are heavier then 173 grains, or Non-USGI spec powder can damage the rifle. You MUST use the correct GI type powder. When priming, it's critical that you seat primers below the case head to prevent slam fires. It's a good idea to use military type harder primers in the M1 for the same reason. A high primer, especially a soft primer can allow the rifle to fire when the bolt closes. Either load with the correct powder or buy a Schuster Gas Nut. The Schuster nut is adjustable to allow shooting most any ammo through the M1. Some of the military type ammo made by Federal and some other makers is loaded to USGI specs and is safe, but make sure before shooting any. |
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Holy moly! I am used to reloading .223 Just checked the prices for some bulk hornady 150 grain fmj ALMOST 200$ for 1k!!!
Luckily I fished out about a thousand 3006 cases at work mostly WC and WCC military brass from 56 and 57 and some stuff with match headstamp. This is going to be expensive! I have a pound of IMR 4064 going to try that, manual says it is about the slowest powder that you can run with stock garand. |
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