Armory Sponsor
Posted: 3/7/2011 1:00:10 PM EDT
|
I need to remove the front sight/flash hider, but do not have castle nut pliers.
Hex nut is removed and It will not move... Any ideas?? And I know, buy castle nut plyers, but thats not an option. |
| The nut is on pretty snug, I went the route of ordering the pliers but you can grind the tips down on these pliers until the fit the slot YMMV |
|
Soak the thread junction––inside and out––with some REAL penetrating oil, such as Kroil. You may have to use a patch saturated in Kroil to soak the inner juncture. Repeat daily for a week.
Be patient. At the end of a week of soaking, give it a try. On re-assembly, use some hi-temp anti-sieze compound on all threads. |
|
Quoted:
Its a Springfield and its been soaking in WD-40. It only has around 100 rounds through it. I have a Troy MCS thats going on it and I'm replacing the front sight/hider with a vortex. I will have to give Kroil a try. WD-40 is definitely not a specific penetrating oil. For best effect, use some carbureator cleaner spray inside the barrel to remove the WD-40, and some carbon as well. Might pay you to use an appropriate diameter brass brush, rotating it, to help in carbon removal at the juncture of flash suppressor and barrel. Don't let the carb cleaner get onto your stock! |
|
Yes and attempting to turn it counter clockwise and not moving.
I don't have a grinder. I have tried using a punch and hamer in an attempted to get it to move, but no luck. I'm amazed that pliers are not moving it, all its doing is chewing up the castle nut. I’m at the point that I’m going to cut the sight off so I can better grip of the castle nut with pliers. Never thought it was going to be this hard to remove it. |
|
Benny 6; That's a great idea. One of the best tips I've seen recently for the M14.
Vice Grips are made of good quality tool steel. They are extremely tough, and hold up well. A good investment. I can but a pair locally and grind the jaws myself. AmryOrdGuy makes a valid point, could be a case of red Lock-tite. Fortunately, castle nuts are cheap. |
|
Quoted:
I just addressed this on another board. Do like panther308 said and grind down the tips of wide-jawed vise grips to fit the castle nut slots. I promise you, they will remove the most stubborn castle nuts, even with mangled slots. http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb423/tonyben3/DSCN4504.jpg Good suggestion! There are some really crappy "factory" wrenches out there. This one will obviously prevail...! |
|
Quoted:
Yes and attempting to turn it counter clockwise and not moving. I don't have a grinder. I have tried using a punch and hamer in an attempted to get it to move, but no luck. I'm amazed that pliers are not moving it, all its doing is chewing up the castle nut. I’m at the point that I’m going to cut the sight off so I can better grip of the castle nut with pliers. Never thought it was going to be this hard to remove it. Are you trying to move the nut counterclockwise looking at it from the muzzle or looking at it from the rear. Turn the nut clockwise looking at it from the muzzle, you want the nut moving towards the back of the barrel. Once it is loose you turn the flashider counterclockwise while looking at it from the muzzle to move it forward moving the castle nut forward as you go until both pieces free from the threads. Some installers glue everything together with LocTite, don't ask me why, so if it still won't move try playing a propane torch over the area until uncomfortable, burn your fingertip hot, let cool and trya again. HTH |
Armory Sponsor