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6/2/2010 12:52:47 PM EDT
I just got a new stock for my M1 Garand. Now the wood is all bare, and I know it is very weak and brittle right now cause it's untreated. So what do I need to do with it? I have not done this before and not sure what to do.
6/2/2010 1:05:00 PM EDT
[#1]
The way they were done at the Springfield Armory is to run them down a belt into a tank of hot linseed oil then allow it to dip and dry for a few days.  You  need to apply boiled linseed oil and a lot of it till the dry wood has soaked it up and it will take a polish.  Do not use gun oil.
6/2/2010 1:11:07 PM EDT
[#2]




Quoted:

The way they were done at the Springfield Armory is to run them down a belt into a tank of hot linseed oil then allow it to dip and dry for a few days. You need to apply boiled linseed oil and a lot of it till the dry wood has soaked it up and it will take a polish. Do not use gun oil.


ok. Cool. I remember the guy at the CMP counter mentioning linseed oil, but I didn't know what to do.
6/2/2010 1:18:55 PM EDT
[#3]
The idea is that the wood fiber soaks up the oil and moisture is not as easy to get in.  That said there are many more modern formulas out there do do better as a hand rubbed finish must be refreshed often, trouble is they do not usually look as nice as oil.  The wood will only take so much linseed.
6/2/2010 1:40:07 PM EDT
[#4]




Quoted:

The idea is that the wood fiber soaks up the oil and moisture is not as easy to get in. That said there are many more modern formulas out there do do better as a hand rubbed finish must be refreshed often, trouble is they do not usually look as nice as oil. The wood will only take so much linseed.


Since I obviously dont have a tank big enough to dunk the stock into boiled linseed, can I apply it with a paintbrush(clean/unused)?
6/2/2010 1:43:41 PM EDT
[#5]
That will work to apply however you need to get your hands in it when rubbing it into the wood.  Hand friction on the stock warms it and helps it get into the grain and allows some to evaporate.
6/2/2010 1:53:15 PM EDT
[#6]
I used to use boiled linseed oil but after having problems with a couple of walnut M1 stocks (both were H&R stocks for some reason) I went to tung oil and it gave me the look I wanted.

I've read that tung oil will not yellow with age like boiled linseed oil does.
6/2/2010 1:55:26 PM EDT
[#7]




Quoted:

I used to use boiled linseed oil but after having problems with a couple of walnut M1 stocks (both were H&R stocks for some reason) I went to tung oil and it gave me the look I wanted.



I've read that tung oil will not yellow with age like boiled linseed oil does.


Really? Can tung oil be applied the same way?
6/2/2010 2:01:54 PM EDT
[#8]
Just read the directions on the can with that.  It dries faster than BLO.  Heavy coats of tung are not needed.
6/2/2010 2:26:18 PM EDT
[#9]
Five coats of Pure Tung Oil, rubbed out with 0000 steel wool between coats, and after the final coat.  Be sure to get Pure Tung Oil, some of the stuff sold in the big box stores have additives or are just wipe on poly.

6/2/2010 3:53:31 PM EDT
[#10]




Quoted:

Five coats of Pure Tung Oil, rubbed out with 0000 steel wool between coats, and after the final coat. Be sure to get Pure Tung Oil, some of the stuff sold in the big box stores have additives or are just wipe on poly.



http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2361/img3986k.jpg


cool thanks.
6/2/2010 4:02:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Another vote for pure tung oil.  Better moisture barrier than BLO and much easier to use.
6/2/2010 4:16:28 PM EDT
[#12]
One other thing, you can vary the amount of gloss or sheen by applying multiple coats.  Anything from a soft field luster to parade gloss.
6/2/2010 4:54:58 PM EDT
[#13]
You might consider something like this....http://www.dalyspaint.com/PDF/specs/S-Ssns.pdf....followed by the topcoat of your choice....http://www.dalyspaint.com/catalog_seafin.html....might work well. I've used it on some exterior wood and it does work well.
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